Hammer the crank till it moves? 
Setting the timing on a 91 L98
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 421
Likes: 0
From: Rockfield, Ky
Setting the timing on a 91 L98
I travel for a living so I had a local mechanic fix a stuck valve spring and fix a coolant leak. He got the valve spring fixed but it still leaked coolant. I guess in the process, he must have removed the intake manifold as I discovered later as the distributor was moved almost 90 degrees away from it normally is. Not only that but he put the plug wires on the wrong posts on the distributor. I put the plug wires wire where they are supposed to be and put the distributor back. I'm trying reset the timing on this engine and I am by myself. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
First you need to pull the plug on #1 and then turn the engine by hand with a finger or thumb over the plug hole. You want to feel compression in the cylinder....then line up the timing marks to zero. Pull the cap off the distributor. Your rotor should be pointing to the #1 terminal that is holding the #1 spark plug wire. If it is not then pull the distributor and rotate it and drop it back in. Remember that the distributor will turn a small about clockwise as you drop it in...so compensate for this when you drop it in.
When you have it all where you want it then put the cap back on.
with above (picture) and disconnect the EST wire. Hook up your timing light and start the car. Turn the distributor until you have the timing lined up to 6 degrees. Tighten the distributor hold down nut. Check to see that when tightening the nut the timing is still in the correct position.
Note that when you pull the EST wire to set the timing a code will be set. When your all thru ...turn off the engine and disconnect the negative battery cable...this will erase the code.
Good Luck.
When you have it all where you want it then put the cap back on.
with above (picture) and disconnect the EST wire. Hook up your timing light and start the car. Turn the distributor until you have the timing lined up to 6 degrees. Tighten the distributor hold down nut. Check to see that when tightening the nut the timing is still in the correct position.Note that when you pull the EST wire to set the timing a code will be set. When your all thru ...turn off the engine and disconnect the negative battery cable...this will erase the code.
Good Luck.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 421
Likes: 0
From: Rockfield, Ky
First you need to pull the plug on #1 and then turn the engine by hand with a finger or thumb over the plug hole. You want to feel compression in the cylinder....then line up the timing marks to zero. Pull the cap off the distributor. Your rotor should be pointing to the #1 terminal that is holding the #1 spark plug wire. If it is not then pull the distributor and rotate it and drop it back in. Remember that the distributor will turn a small about clockwise as you drop it in...so compensate for this when you drop it in.
When you have it all where you want it then put the cap back on. with above (picture) and disconnect the EST wire. Hook up your timing light and start the car. Turn the distributor until you have the timing lined up to 6 degrees. Tighten the distributor hold down nut. Check to see that when tightening the nut the timing is still in the correct position.
Note that when you pull the EST wire to set the timing a code will be set. When your all thru ...turn off the engine and disconnect the negative battery cable...this will erase the code.
Good Luck.
When you have it all where you want it then put the cap back on.
with above (picture) and disconnect the EST wire. Hook up your timing light and start the car. Turn the distributor until you have the timing lined up to 6 degrees. Tighten the distributor hold down nut. Check to see that when tightening the nut the timing is still in the correct position.Note that when you pull the EST wire to set the timing a code will be set. When your all thru ...turn off the engine and disconnect the negative battery cable...this will erase the code.
Good Luck.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
The center bolt in the balancer is 5/8". Use a 6 point socket (not 12) and a breaker bar to turn the engine. Place the socket on the bolt head and very slowly pull the bar toward you (you should be on the driver's side).
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 421
Likes: 0
From: Rockfield, Ky
Thanks. I did not know that. I normally work on cars that has coil packs.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 346
From: Anaheim CA
I had trouble with my socket slipping off the head of the stock bolt. I changed to an ARP bolt and solved that problem. A little expensive, but worth it in saved aggravation:
http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-det...p?RecordID=247
http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-det...p?RecordID=247
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Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 11,470
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- I was going to say that, but WTF do I know - 
. i'm thinking the torque spec on most SBC crank bolts is in the 60-70 lbs.ft. range. fighting engine compression, it is possible to over torque that bolt. I've never seen it happen, but rounding the hex, breaking the head off, or stripping the threads could cause some "unpleasant" rework issues. I would err on the side of caution. 
Last edited by Joe C; Oct 20, 2015 at 08:29 AM.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 338
Likes: 79
From: STATE OF CONFUSION IN THE COUNTY OF L.A
I crank the engine with the ignition switch, and rarely pull the number 1 spark plug.
put the timing mark 6 degrees btdc, and with the distributor properly orientated, the rotor will be pointing at number 1 or about 5 oclock when viewed from above now move the wires clockwise 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
if it dosen't run you're 180 out
that mechanic (and I use that term loosely) should have his artificial eye gouged out
put the timing mark 6 degrees btdc, and with the distributor properly orientated, the rotor will be pointing at number 1 or about 5 oclock when viewed from above now move the wires clockwise 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
if it dosen't run you're 180 out
that mechanic (and I use that term loosely) should have his artificial eye gouged out
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 421
Likes: 0
From: Rockfield, Ky
I crank the engine with the ignition switch, and rarely pull the number 1 spark plug.
put the timing mark 6 degrees btdc, and with the distributor properly orientated, the rotor will be pointing at number 1 or about 5 oclock when viewed from above now move the wires clockwise 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
if it dosen't run you're 180 out
that mechanic (and I use that term loosely) should have his artificial eye gouged out
put the timing mark 6 degrees btdc, and with the distributor properly orientated, the rotor will be pointing at number 1 or about 5 oclock when viewed from above now move the wires clockwise 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
if it dosen't run you're 180 out
that mechanic (and I use that term loosely) should have his artificial eye gouged out
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 421
Likes: 0
From: Rockfield, Ky
Progress report: I have been able to turn the crankshaft fairly easily after I took out some spark plugs. I felt the compression in the #1 spark plug hole. However, everything is so dirty that it's hard to mark out the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley. Does anybody have a pic of it?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 550
From: Mission Viejo CA
First you need to pull the plug on #1 and then turn the engine by hand with a finger or thumb over the plug hole. You want to feel compression in the cylinder....then line up the timing marks to zero. Pull the cap off the distributor. Your rotor should be pointing to the #1 terminal that is holding the #1 spark plug wire.
The "mechanic" did this, since the engine apparently did run when he finished his job. The difference is that the distributor can be set in ANY position, and as long as the rotor is pointed at the #1 wire when the #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke, the engine will run.
That doesn't make it right!
The difference is that the rotor should first point toward the #1 spark plug position! This orients the distributor for the best and shortest spark plug wire routing!
Once the distributor is oriented properly, the #1 wire must line up with this rotor position!
Last edited by Hot Rod Roy; Oct 21, 2015 at 10:46 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 421
Likes: 0
From: Rockfield, Ky
I crank the engine with the ignition switch, and rarely pull the number 1 spark plug.
put the timing mark 6 degrees btdc, and with the distributor properly orientated, the rotor will be pointing at number 1 or about 5 oclock when viewed from above now move the wires clockwise 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
if it dosen't run you're 180 out
that mechanic (and I use that term loosely) should have his artificial eye gouged out
put the timing mark 6 degrees btdc, and with the distributor properly orientated, the rotor will be pointing at number 1 or about 5 oclock when viewed from above now move the wires clockwise 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
if it dosen't run you're 180 out
that mechanic (and I use that term loosely) should have his artificial eye gouged out
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
Zero is the best point of reference to line things up. When you have the cap off, it will still not be 100% correct. You will have to start the car and with a timing light hooked up turn the cap by hand to get the timing lined up where it should be 6 degrees.
Just a side note, 6 is the "standard" setting. But many cars "will like" 8-10 degrees....that is a trial and error thing.
Just a side note, 6 is the "standard" setting. But many cars "will like" 8-10 degrees....that is a trial and error thing.