Engine block question (L98)

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Aug 26, 2002 | 12:39 AM

VetteNoob

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From: Kyle TX (Because Mojo Made me fill it in)

Engine block question (L98)

Im looking to begin collecting parts for a 383. What type of block should I be looking for? Im looking at a '90 L98 block for $200 right now for this build. What is the going price for a 350 short block? Any particular types of block? Im guessing that the block will need to go to a machine shop regardless if Im going 383. I dont plan on spraying or anything like that. Im just looking to be able to put 350-400 to the ground via SR/MR/stealthram when this is over. Thanks.

Aug 26, 2002 | 12:51 AM

scorp508

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From: Boston, MA

Look for a.....

1. One piece rear main seal.
2. Roller cam.
3. SBC 350

A 2-bolt main cap block should be fine for what you want.

Aug 26, 2002 | 01:26 AM

severe-1

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From: Palm City FL

Re: Engine block question (VetteNoob)

Check this out [URL][www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&catid=514&pi d=81632/URL]
I'm doing a 383 for my 86 now. I'm using the original block cause its a pace car so I wanted to keep it original. :crazy:
So far its been apart for over 2 months and its quite a bit over budget, but there is no turning back now. I've heard good things about this sdpc 383. This is probably a little more rocking than your original plan, but it will probably be right about the price range of the motor your planing after you figure in all the parts and machine work. Hey, its worth the look... :seeya

Aug 26, 2002 | 01:39 AM

vader86

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From: Athens AL

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Re: (scorp508)

Quote:

Look for a.....

1. One piece rear main seal.
2. Roller cam.
3. SBC 350

A 2-bolt main cap block should be fine for what you want.

Aug 26, 2002 | 01:48 AM

gtsyellow

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From: down that one road next to that big tree

Re: Engine block question (severe-1)

the 2 bolt blocks are fine if you use ARP main studs. they mains will come apart where they attach to the block before the studs break. a lot of it depends on how you plan to run the engine. if your not going to have the rpms up for a extended period of time and are making under 600hp the factory blocks are just fine as long as you main stud them. over that they can live, i mean i know guys making 700-750 on factory blocks but they never get more than 1/4mi passes. when you consider the small bore bowtie block is like $1300 & can take most anything you can toss at it on pump gas it might be a good investment if you plan on any RPM's or a good amount of hp. the siamesed cylinder walls just are much more stable at high rpms {like 8,000}

Aug 26, 2002 | 06:36 AM

pablocruise

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From: Santa Maria, CA

Re: (vader86)

Quote:

Look for a.....

1. One piece rear main seal.
2. Roller cam.
3. SBC 350

A 2-bolt main cap block should be fine for what you want.

I think that is a post 1987 block although nowadays, kits are available to convert from a 2 piece to a 1. $200.00 for a post 87 roller block sounds fair.

Aug 26, 2002 | 09:49 AM

scorp508

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Joined: Mar 2000

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From: Boston, MA

Quote:

I think that is a post 1987 block although nowadays, kits are available to convert from a 2 piece to a 1. $200.00 for a post 87 roller block sounds fair.

87 and up for sure.

Aug 26, 2002 | 11:06 AM

VetteNoob

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From: Kyle TX (Because Mojo Made me fill it in)

Re:

Yeah, the '90 block is a 1 piece rear seal and roller. So that should be a good block to begin the engine build or should I consider a 383 short block similar to what was referenced earlier in this thread?

[Modified by VetteNoob, 9:07 AM 8/26/2002]