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Well, I'm midway through my 3rd opti replacement in 7 years, and have run into something I'd like to run by you. In the hole on the timing cover that the optispark drive shaft goes into, the bearing looks funny to me. The ring around the outside edge, instead of being constant all the way around, dips down at a point. I took a picture of it to show you. Is this normal, and if not, where do I find this bearing and how do I get it out. The water pump bearing has a spot for a screwdriver, but I'm not seeing that here. Help before I break something!
Bob
that is a seal replace it as well as the water pump one.do some reading they can be tricky. there is a tool to install some use a sharpy. carefully drill a small hole and put a screw in it to pull it out.
Last edited by antfarmer2; Nov 3, 2015 at 10:35 AM.
that is a seal replace it as well as the water pump one.do some reading they can be tricky. there is a tool to install some use a sharpy.
I've looked everywhere for it, and for instructions on how to do it. I don't think it's even covered in the FSM. You can buy the whole cover with both seals installed for $149, but that seems like a job too.
I just did this one last week on a 96. I would have liked the J-tool for the WP seal install but a Super Sharpie cap that was modified did the trick (the Sharpie cap was about .002 smaller than the shaft but it does work), just put some white grease on the ID of the new seal and the WP driveshaft to help things along and take your time. Remember the WP seal is double-lipped so be careful not to fold the inner one in or damage the outer one as you slide it on. The Opti seal is pretty straight forward although there isn't much room in there to tap it in, it took me about 45 minutes to finally get it going in straight then it went right in the seal bore.
I just run to the nearest big chain Autoparts store and buy the Fel Pro Timing cover set for about 10 bucks. It comes with all of the seals in the timing cover, water pump gaskets, and timing cover gaskets. Last time I checked it was cheaper to buy the kit than the hub seal so I bought the kit and threw the rest out.TCS 45956 (65993)
just google it most likely take you back to the forum. I find it works better than the search in here.
this is two I found to get you started.
Last edited by antfarmer2; Nov 3, 2015 at 10:51 AM.
I just did this one last week on a 96. I would have liked the J-tool for the WP seal install but a Super Sharpie cap that was modified did the trick (the Sharpie cap was about .002 smaller than the shaft but it does work), just put some white grease on the ID of the new seal and the WP driveshaft to help things along and take your time. Remember the WP seal is double-lipped so be careful not to fold the inner one in or damage the outer one as you slide it on. The Opti seal is pretty straight forward although there isn't much room in there to tap it in, it took me about 45 minutes to finally get it going in straight then it went right in the seal bore.
I just run to the nearest big chain Autoparts store and buy the Fel Pro Timing cover set for about 10 bucks. It comes with all of the seals in the timing cover, water pump gaskets, and timing cover gaskets. Last time I checked it was cheaper to buy the kit than the hub seal so I bought the kit and threw the rest out.TCS 45956 (65993)
just google it most likely take you back to the forum. I find it works better than the search in here.
this is two I found to get you started.
Thanks for all of your help. In getting the opti seal out, any word of advice? Do I just try to pry it out with a screwdriver? There's no place to get to it like on the WP seal. Sorry for all of the questions...
Oooo. I found this as I did what you said and started googling.
2. Opstspark seal.
This one was embarrassingly easy out and in. I used the $5 seal removal tool I purchased at Harbor Freight; it worked like a champ. Putting the new seal in was as easy as getting it aligned with the hole and tapping it in using the proper socket.
Oooo. I found this as I did what you said and started googling.
2. Opstspark seal.
This one was embarrassingly easy out and in. I used the $5 seal removal tool I purchased at Harbor Freight; it worked like a champ. Putting the new seal in was as easy as getting it aligned with the hole and tapping it in using the proper socket.
I think I'm ready to do this Antfarmer2. AutoZone has the kit you recommended in stock and I'm feeling good about it. I had another mechanic tell me to just leave it as the seal on the opti should keep the oil from leaking, but my fear was having this shearing apart or breaking apart entirely. Your advice was what I wanted to hear. It's worth doing right.
More tomorrow...
I think I'm ready to do this Antfarmer2. AutoZone has the kit you recommended in stock and I'm feeling good about it. I had another mechanic tell me to just leave it as the seal on the opti should keep the oil from leaking, but my fear was having this shearing apart or breaking apart entirely. Your advice was what I wanted to hear. It's worth doing right.
More tomorrow...
I would stay away from that guy he has no clue. it is not a fun job as you know. put antisieze on the harmonic balancer. I also put red locktight on the opti screws.
make sure it is the right kit not sure if the years make a differance don't think so but better safe than sorry.
do the water pump seal too.
and a nipple on your water pump dain hole with a tube will save your opti from getting wet if it fails.
Last edited by antfarmer2; Nov 3, 2015 at 12:16 PM.
Thanks for all of your help. In getting the opti seal out, any word of advice? Do I just try to pry it out with a screwdriver? There's no place to get to it like on the WP seal. Sorry for all of the questions...
Yes, just pry it out and gently push the new seal in by hand. It's that simple. This seal doesn't require a special tool like the water pump seal.
Well, both seals came out without a problem and the new ones installed easily (as you already knew they would I'm sure . Unfortunately, I appear to have the wrong Optispark unit as it has a vent tube on the bottom that is getting in the way of the crank shaft. It's probably the one that goes to a 95-96. Oh well, I scraped off the gaskets for the water pump and will get the opti swapped out tomorrow. Thanks for your help locating those seals.
Well, both seals came out without a problem and the new ones installed easily (as you already knew they would I'm sure . Unfortunately, I appear to have the wrong Optispark unit as it has a vent tube on the bottom that is getting in the way of the crank shaft. It's probably the one that goes to a 95-96. Oh well, I scraped off the gaskets for the water pump and will get the opti swapped out tomorrow. Thanks for your help locating those seals.
the pin to drive the opti is differant too. you can put a vent on yours too many have done it also would not hurt to seal the cap with silacone don't forget the red locktight.
the pin to drive the opti is differant too. you can put a vent on yours too many have done it also would not hurt to seal the cap with silacone don't forget the red locktight.
I picked up a new tube of red lock tight in your honor yesterday Antfarmer2. Today the weather is so nice that I've decided to take the day off and finish this job. I also need to rewire the aftermarket stereo (since it was installed by someone else, turning on the headlights turns off climate control), take apart the climate control unit (as it doesn't always do what its supposed to do even when the headlights are off), and flush the heater core (I've needed to change it for a couple of years now, but flushing it each year seems to keep the air coming out hot).
If I run into any snags, you might see me back here before you know it.
I picked up a new tube of red lock tight in your honor yesterday Antfarmer2. Today the weather is so nice that I've decided to take the day off and finish this job. I also need to rewire the aftermarket stereo (since it was installed by someone else, turning on the headlights turns off climate control), take apart the climate control unit (as it doesn't always do what its supposed to do even when the headlights are off), and flush the heater core (I've needed to change it for a couple of years now, but flushing it each year seems to keep the air coming out hot).
If I run into any snags, you might see me back here before you know it.
if your going to flush the system lets do it right. you need to pull the knock sensors one on either side center of the engine from the under side. you will not believe how much crap will be in there. might need to run a wire in there. just pinch the connectors to remove pay atention to the shield on the pass side it took a bit for me to get it right. I put in new sensors could not bring myself to put the old ones back. torque is important 14 lb I believe but check to be sure. if you reuse the old ones need the right dope on them.
buy full antifreeze and distilled water no sence paying for premix will need 2 gal of each. I like putting a bottle of water wetter in too.
Last edited by antfarmer2; Nov 4, 2015 at 10:00 AM.
I already got to the refill of coolant stage before I read this, but last year Jim Van Dorn of Automasters, changed the radiator, so we're probably good.
As you've probably surmised, I am a DIY'er, and not really a mechanic. I've done a lot of stuff myself thanks to people here, youtube videos and the FSM, but I'm always a little nervous about the work I do. Thanks for bearing with me.
I used red lock tight on the bolts holding the Opti in and on the water pump. I used Permatex High Tack Gasket Sealer on the gaskets for the water pump. I filled up the tank with the orange Dexcool for GM 50/50. As I turned on the engine it fired right up but it gave up a couple of loud squeals and smelled a little funny at first. I'm guessing this was the belt burning off any residue that had made it to the tensioner and pulleys. It sounded normal after that and the smell went away quickly.
I didn't realize until it was buttoned up that I had not put grease on the splines for the water pump or the opti. Do I need to remove them and do that? The water pump still had the old grease on it.
Tonight Ill be topping off the coolant and giving it a test drive through the neighborhood.
Any thoughts so far?
oh **** I said red locktight on the opti screws. not the opti bolts!!!!! what ones did you do? I would still pull the knock sensors to be sure most don't know about it a lot of crap in there that can plug things up. you can drain and reuse if clean. but betting on a lot of crap.
this is not good if you used red locktight on the water pump and opti bolts on the water pump I use permatex #2 I am hopeing you did not clean them good get them out!!!!!
you can do one at a time but should have cleaned the seals and new grease.
Last edited by antfarmer2; Nov 5, 2015 at 10:27 AM.
oh **** I said red locktight on the opti screws. not the opti bolts
I bought the opti already self contained (not the rotor kit). I guess what's done is done, so I'll make a note in my FSM not to do that again and to be mindful of that when I take them out next time.
I bought the opti already self contained (not the rotor kit). I guess what's done is done, so I'll make a note in my FSM not to do that again and to be mindful of that when I take them out next time.
Live and learn.
I used a built opti too I still put red locktight on the opti screws. I would pull the bolts and do it right might not be able to get them out next time. so sorry for the misunderstanding but if you did not clean them good with brake cleaner there should be enough oil in the threads to get them out.
Last edited by antfarmer2; Nov 5, 2015 at 10:43 AM.
I used a built opti too I still put red locktight on the opti screws. I would pull the bolts and do it right might not be able to get them out next time.
I was afraid you'd say that. Isn't the damage already done? Or do you think that the longer it cures, the harder it will be to get them out.
Sorry... another optispark question
so sorry for the misunderstanding but if you did not clean them good with brake cleaner there should be enough oil in the threads to get them out.