96 CE LT4 won't crank
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 29
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From: El Paso
96 CE LT4 won't crank
Hi. I am looking for help with my 96 Lt4 start issue. It has an intermittent starting problem. It take about 3-4 turns on the ignition to get it to crank over. Once on? No problem. Drives like a champ. Any suggestions?
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 15,926
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clean your pos and neg connections both ends and check the cables. pull the battery and clean the block connection behind it. might be the soliniod getting craped up.
Last edited by antfarmer2; Nov 15, 2015 at 08:18 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,394
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With an M6 you need to check the "no crank" rather systematically. Earlier M6 cranking circuits were more problematic than later but the clutch activated switch is certainly a go to item in first checks. The TDR might be considered 2nd.
You also need to maybe explain better precisely what happens. Does it fail to crank and then time out for maybe 3 minutes before you can attempt OR just how does it act?
The diagnostic tree for a "no crank" starts at the clutch operated switch and the Theft Deterrent Relay and then moves forward but checking the condition of the cables certainly isn't a waste.
Not knowing how familiar you are with the car it's difficult to lead you in a direction.
If this car is "a keeper" and you don't have a FSM (Factory Service Manual) it would be a wise buy. Not a generic Haynes or Chilton but a Helm product.
For strictly diagnostics jumping the clutch operated switch might be a good start. I wouldn't suggest permanently bypassing but it is done. Both the clutch switch and TDR can be checked using DMM. Do you have?
How many keys do you have? How many miles on the car?
You also need to maybe explain better precisely what happens. Does it fail to crank and then time out for maybe 3 minutes before you can attempt OR just how does it act?
The diagnostic tree for a "no crank" starts at the clutch operated switch and the Theft Deterrent Relay and then moves forward but checking the condition of the cables certainly isn't a waste.
Not knowing how familiar you are with the car it's difficult to lead you in a direction.
If this car is "a keeper" and you don't have a FSM (Factory Service Manual) it would be a wise buy. Not a generic Haynes or Chilton but a Helm product.
For strictly diagnostics jumping the clutch operated switch might be a good start. I wouldn't suggest permanently bypassing but it is done. Both the clutch switch and TDR can be checked using DMM. Do you have?
How many keys do you have? How many miles on the car?
Last edited by WVZR-1; Nov 15, 2015 at 09:00 AM.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 151
Likes: 6
From: Honolulu Hawaii
I was/am having a similar issue with my 1996 LT1 and I think it's going to end up being the starter. Since the starter is super easy to take out and update/upgrade I might look at that even if it's something else.
You can get new contact plates and a plunger for your starter for about $35 shipped and from what I've read those are what go bad most frequently on the OEM starters.
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/densoparts.html
You can get new contact plates and a plunger for your starter for about $35 shipped and from what I've read those are what go bad most frequently on the OEM starters.
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/densoparts.html
Last edited by LCPLPunk; Nov 15, 2015 at 04:08 PM.
