Feedback Welcomed - Electrical Troubleshoot 1995
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I believe yes but when you use the lower scale I wouldn't be surprised to see it read something less than or maybe more than because you've tightened the limits. You've established that it's less than the 200 mA so just redo it using that aspect of the meter. It seems like you need to anyway to confirm the condition of the circuits.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Nov 18, 2015 at 04:54 PM.
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Yeah My Thought
Yes, the tech is right. Since you'll reset the timing devices every time you disconnect the battery, you need to protect the multimeter during this delay time. The initial higher current during the delay time will blow the multimeter internal fuse, when the meter is in the milliamp position. To prevent this problem, put a jumper wire between the battery post and the battery cable, at the same time that the multimeter is connected to these same spots. After the delay time, remove the jumper wire without disconnecting the multimeter leads from the battery and cable.
The parasitic drain in my '84 is 0.010 A (10 milliAmps)
The parasitic drain in my '84 is 0.010 A (10 milliAmps)
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My thought
I believe yes but when you use the lower scale I wouldn't be surprised to see it read something less than or maybe more than because you've tightened the limits. You've established that it's less than the 200 mA so just redo it using that aspect of the meter. It seems like you need to anyway to confirm the condition of the circuits.
When I did the test that I mentioned, the reading jumped to .312 when I first applied the probes to the cable and battery which was the Vette waking up. It then settled to .110 in a few seconds. If I do the mA test tonight my concern is that I fry the meter on the initial surge. I believe the .110 reading is enough to move onto the fuse pull test.
I have a pair of jumper cables which would let me do the test and deal with the surge. They are in another car which is not back until Thursday.
Again, I thank you and everyone for your time investment.
Melting Slicks
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From: Palmdale CA
Yeah. Have you ever know something, then let another talk you out of it. When I speaking the innova tech rep, a nice guy, I thought that what he said on the units of measure was incorrect. I went along thinking "hey. its his meter, right?". My reading of .110A is 110mA, or in other words a draw 10 times greater than your 84. I need to move onto the fuse pull test.
You can't use an 84 Vette as a baseline for your 95. you need to find the Specification in the FSM, As I recall, I'm pretty sure it's in there.
Having said this 1/10 of an amp does seem high.. read the Book!
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Last edited by Hot Rod Roy; Nov 18, 2015 at 07:15 PM.
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I looked at the parasitic values in 6D-5 this morning and it certainly is difficult to try and determine what value "to expect". I looked at the FSM to see what effect PKE could have on maybe the results before just asking where yours was. The charts in other years FSM are certainly easier to use in determining a value to expect.
I guess the best procedure is PKE FOB somewhere in the "next county" LOL
I guess the best procedure is PKE FOB somewhere in the "next county" LOL
Last edited by WVZR-1; Nov 19, 2015 at 05:23 AM.
Melting Slicks
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From: Palmdale CA
I also looked this up for you in the 1995 FSM volume 1; page 6D1-5 (parasitic current drain procedures battery)
I calculated the total current drain in sleep mode [all microprocessors] at: 26.42[ma]
The key Fob has to be at least 100 ft from the car when this measurement is taken.
your current measurement is 4.1 times higher then it should be..
I calculated the total current drain in sleep mode [all microprocessors] at: 26.42[ma]
The key Fob has to be at least 100 ft from the car when this measurement is taken.
your current measurement is 4.1 times higher then it should be..
Last edited by desertmike1; Nov 19, 2015 at 10:31 AM.
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Same Thing
I looked at the parasitic values in 6D-5 this morning and it certainly is difficult to try and determine what value "to expect". I looked at the FSM to see what effect PKE could have on maybe the results before just asking where yours was. The charts in other years FSM are certainly easier to use in determining a value to expect.
I guess the best procedure is PKE FOB somewhere in the "next county" LOL
I guess the best procedure is PKE FOB somewhere in the "next county" LOL
To me, now, my objective is to do the fuse pull test. Not too long ago, the heater core under the dash was replaced by a service provider. It may be something to that. May for now, just connect the heater/AC, if needed. I live in Atlanta and never use that anyway. Again, my task now is the fuse test. Thanks.
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Here is how it ended. I did the battery test. Also, the alternator test. Both had good numbers on the multi meter. I do the parasitic draw circuit breaker test. Please note that this was a fun test to do with the wife watching the meter while I pull fuses. Well, anyone, it turned out to be the last circuit I tested - the horn. The meter changed from 115 to 25 milliamps. The horn was already disconnected which surprised me that it would be the one. I did it twice and got the same result. So, I am going with that as to what to now investigate. I thank everyone for their guidance.
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From: Mission Viejo CA
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My Apologies
My Apologies, Hot Rod I had forgotten that I had disconnected the horns from under the hood. I was out of town and for some reason the horn came on by itself and stayed on. I just pulled over and did the disconnect. I was on the way to something important at the time and forgot about it. Seriously, it was the last one that I checked.