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So I'm new here and needing help/advice. I have a 94 corvette with a unusual electric gremlin. The dash lights and idiot lights stay on even when the key is not in the ignition and they don't go off as if the key was in the run position and when I try to crank it I don't here the fuel pump or starter. I've replaced the ignition cylinder and checked the ohms in the key and two lil orange wires and they match. I'm electronically impaired so this feels like a huge issue I've also checked the fuses and load tested the battery both check out ok. I feel like it's either the cam or vats? where do I go from here??
So I'm new here and needing help/advice. I have a 94 corvette with a unusual electric gremlin. The dash lights and idiot lights stay on even when the key is not in the ignition and they don't go off as if the key was in the run position and when I try to crank it I don't here the fuel pump or starter. I've replaced the ignition cylinder and checked the ohms in the key and two lil orange wires and they match. I'm electronically impaired so this feels like a huge issue I've also checked the fuses and load tested the battery both check out ok. I feel like it's either the cam or vats? where do I go from here??
Yes it's the same car I finally registered on here but I've replaced the ignition switch/cylinder unhooked the negative from the battery for a period of time to reset I've looked over every fuse directly related and semi related to the ignition ccm pke a/c ecu fuel pump checked under the battery tray for acid on the hot wires checked the ohms on the key and orange wires under the hush panel unplugged and replugged the computer took apart the center console to get to what I believe is the vats box and it looked fine. When I unplug the battery for awhile and hook it back up the lights are off but as soon as I insert and turn the key it lights up like Christmas and they don't go off until the battery is disconnected but the fuel pump doesn't prime at any point
did you look a the connection block behind the battery and the fuseable links? while your in there clear your drain tube and look at the battery cable where it goes by the steering column.
Yes it's the same car I finally registered on here but I've replaced the ignition switch/cylinder unhooked the negative from the battery for a period of time to reset I've looked over every fuse directly related and semi related to the ignition ccm pke a/c ecu fuel pump checked under the battery tray for acid on the hot wires checked the ohms on the key and orange wires under the hush panel unplugged and replugged the computer took apart the center console to get to what I believe is the vats box and it looked fine. When I unplug the battery for awhile and hook it back up the lights are off but as soon as I insert and turn the key it lights up like Christmas and they don't go off until the battery is disconnected but the fuel pump doesn't prime at any point
Did you replace the cylinder and the ignition switch that is external of the column OR when you mention switch/cylinder do you mean the same single piece 'internal' to the column?
When you crank the ignition from lock to crank the rod should lift nearly 3/4" up the column and the rack should disappear into the shroud. Depending how much you've removed you should be either able to feel the 3/4" or see it. I'd think you could see it. Is the rod/rack actually engaging and activating the ignition switch? Maybe it's never engaging the "crank aspect" of the ignition switch itself.
There's a 5 pin and a 4 pin connector @ the ignition switch, are those latched and in good condition? There isn't a VATS box - the VATS is in the CCM, get a part # off of it. Depending how deeply you're into the dash you might have the lateral accelerometer in your hand. Do either of you have a FSM? Any year might do.
What happens with KEY OFF - LIGHTS ON? Do the dash lights dim as expected when commanded by light switch?
I replaced the cylinder part where the key inserts and yes I have a FSM I got from EVLGTO I went over the wiring diagrams last night for about four hours and I'm thinking its a negative grounded somewhere it shouldn't not a hot if it were a hot wire it would have blown a fuse and told on its self but it hasn't and the lights stay bright they don't dim actually they get brighter when the head lights are turned on
So adjusting the ignition switch? Any idea how simple that entails? I'm not home other wise I would look at the FSM
Don't worry about any of it until you've got the FSM and the car available. You don't know that it needs adjusted, you don't know that the rod is actually doing it's job to engage the switch. Just wait and familiarize yourself with the diagnostics in 8A30 of the FSM for the time being.
If you've the FSM rely on it and no conversations here until you understand and have checked as far as you can go on your own.
Since you were already in the column CHECK THE ROD TO THE IGNITION SWITCH FOR THE 3/4" movement I mentioned. If you don't have that - oh well!
Do you get a proper "BULB CHECK" in the DIC? The rest use the FSM.