L98
#2
Team Owner
Intakes, headers, exhaust and dyno tuning. What are we talking about money wise?
#4
Team Owner
I know I installed an LPE 383 and before I left, John L asked me if the trans was stock. I asked why and he said that it would die within a year. Made it 9 months grannying the thing.
#5
Melting Slicks
I haven't touched the longblock, 128 heads and am still using the stock flat tap cam and exhaust manifolds on my 86. My ET says I'm running 315 rwhp bout but I'd wager the dyno would show lower since I focus on efficiency. These engines/car will run decent if you put in some work. Intake, cam and exhaust should get you around 300, the alum heads 128/113 came on some of the early zz engines, so they ain't no boat anchors and comparable to some camelbacks. Still modern good brand heads are the easiest HP and good $ spent.
#6
Team Owner
I haven't touched the longblock, 128 heads and am still using the stock flat tap cam and exhaust manifolds on my 86. My ET says I'm running 315 rwhp bout but I'd wager the dyno would show lower since I focus on efficiency. These engines/car will run decent if you put in some work. Intake, cam and exhaust should get you around 300, the alum heads 128/113 came on some of the early zz engines, so they ain't no boat anchors and comparable to some camelbacks. Still modern good brand heads are the easiest HP and good $ spent.
#7
I haven't touched the longblock, 128 heads and am still using the stock flat tap cam and exhaust manifolds on my 86. My ET says I'm running 315 rwhp bout but I'd wager the dyno would show lower since I focus on efficiency. These engines/car will run decent if you put in some work. Intake, cam and exhaust should get you around 300, the alum heads 128/113 came on some of the early zz engines, so they ain't no boat anchors and comparable to some camelbacks. Still modern good brand heads are the easiest HP and good $ spent.
#8
Melting Slicks
Aklim-I have a mild tune I got online, I don't think it's ideal and am planning to do some tuning myself just not decided on how to go about it yet.
dan-I find it harder to believe you haven't done better with some of the parts you have. I know many ways to make cars fast and continue to learn. A stock engine/car is bleeding power left and right, you just gotta know how to plug the holes. I'm not even done working this car and my goal is to make it as fast as I can w/o changing the cam or heads, then maybe I'll port them and use a cam that many would consider small. If your in this hobby long enough you'll understand, if you don't quit.
dan-I find it harder to believe you haven't done better with some of the parts you have. I know many ways to make cars fast and continue to learn. A stock engine/car is bleeding power left and right, you just gotta know how to plug the holes. I'm not even done working this car and my goal is to make it as fast as I can w/o changing the cam or heads, then maybe I'll port them and use a cam that many would consider small. If your in this hobby long enough you'll understand, if you don't quit.
#9
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
^You're obviously good at improving drivetrain efficiency, resulting in "good" ET's (what ever they are) but...
ET's are not a good or reliable metric from which to calc HP. Why? Set up and driving. A 400 hp 'Vette can trap anywhere from high 11's to low 13's....but it'll trap pretty consistently around 114 or so. TRAP is the metric from which to calculate HP. Not ET.
I agree w/Daniel....I doubt 315 RWHP.
ET's are not a good or reliable metric from which to calc HP. Why? Set up and driving. A 400 hp 'Vette can trap anywhere from high 11's to low 13's....but it'll trap pretty consistently around 114 or so. TRAP is the metric from which to calculate HP. Not ET.
I agree w/Daniel....I doubt 315 RWHP.
#10
Melting Slicks
#11
Team Owner
Aklim-I have a mild tune I got online, I don't think it's ideal and am planning to do some tuning myself just not decided on how to go about it yet.
dan-I find it harder to believe you haven't done better with some of the parts you have. I know many ways to make cars fast and continue to learn. A stock engine/car is bleeding power left and right, you just gotta know how to plug the holes. I'm not even done working this car and my goal is to make it as fast as I can w/o changing the cam or heads, then maybe I'll port them and use a cam that many would consider small. If your in this hobby long enough you'll understand, if you don't quit.
dan-I find it harder to believe you haven't done better with some of the parts you have. I know many ways to make cars fast and continue to learn. A stock engine/car is bleeding power left and right, you just gotta know how to plug the holes. I'm not even done working this car and my goal is to make it as fast as I can w/o changing the cam or heads, then maybe I'll port them and use a cam that many would consider small. If your in this hobby long enough you'll understand, if you don't quit.
315 RWHP is how much after drivetrain loss? So how much do you think I make since I have 420 RWHP on the dyno? Conservatively, I kinda think just south of 500, maybe 480 since I have a 700R4. So if you have 315 RWHP, you are probably making north of 350 at the crank. The stock engine is rated at 240 at the crank so you'd have to be able to staunch the loss by 110 HP which is pretty good. 20 years ago, even with the Superram intake and Tri-Y headers and exhaust, I had it tuned at LPE and I forgot the exact numbers but there was no way I could make 100HP. So exactly what was done with a mild tune and what else did you have to change to make this 110 HP?
#12
Thanks guys, really good information on this site. I think I am going with the heads headers and cam set-up. I did communicate with another guy here earlier and he suggested a 3000 stall, would that be something worth looking into?
#13
Team Owner
Ask Precision Industries. They make a TC for our car. Sounds a little higher than I would like
#14
If you don't change that intake manifold then you probably won't get to 300 rwhp.
#15
Team Owner
And a more aggressive tune instead of some canned version. SOTP dyno is incredibly susceptive to fantasies and good thoughts. SOTP dyno said the car was running smoothly, injector bench said they weren't all at the same rate and one was partially clogged. SOTP dyno didn't register changes when the injectors came back. On my other cars, SOTP didn't register change after cleaning and testing of injectors but mpg did.
Last edited by aklim; 12-03-2015 at 08:53 AM.
#16
#17
Melting Slicks
I guarantee, unless you are extremely lucky, it isn't ideal. IF it is, you just won the lottery. Online mild tune means extremely conservative. If I were tuning without at least datalogs, do you think I would put an aggressive tune or something that is a "CYA Tune"? Only way I know of is to dyno tune or at the very least, take readings and tune and retune and retune till perfect.
So exactly what was done with a mild tune and what else did you have to change to make this 110 HP?
So exactly what was done with a mild tune and what else did you have to change to make this 110 HP?
I agree on the tune deal and I am not that lucky!
I've done basic stuff like 1.6 rockers, cats delete with hi-flow muffler and good exhaust, UD pulleys, delete all the crap that you don't really need that robs a little here n there. I've spent a lot of time porting the intake plenum, shortened the slp runners to about 15.5" and I want to try another inch(basically a DYI superram when you do that, shorter runners and more plenum volume)(LS3/FAST LS intakes are about 14"). The base wasn't over ported and hogged out like many who only care about cfm. LOL I always get a kick out of how people compare the base to the performer intake flow numbers when a carb intake has to flow fuel as well. Same with header size people way too often go too big and when you just make everything match and flow similar it works really well. Rock solid ignition! Too many small things tah list. I try and control heat under hood as well as intake temp. I can go for a drive and the plenum will be cool to the touch and never gets over lukewarm with the 5 mods I do to help keep it cool. I like to have people touch my valve cover then the plenum to see the huge difference. Corvettes in general heat is a big power robber!
Anyways lots of work and time spent on all the little tricks I've learned. Much of the info is on this forum or others, just gotta look for it.
#18
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2001
Location: Athens AL
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C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
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I would never recommend someone go with a 3000 stall TC if they plan to drive it alot on the street. You will not like it.
#19
#20
Team Owner
I agree on the tune deal and I am not that lucky!
I've done basic stuff like 1.6 rockers, cats delete with hi-flow muffler and good exhaust, UD pulleys, delete all the crap that you don't really need that robs a little here n there. I've spent a lot of time porting the intake plenum, shortened the slp runners to about 15.5" and I want to try another inch(basically a DYI superram when you do that, shorter runners and more plenum volume)(LS3/FAST LS intakes are about 14"). The base wasn't over ported and hogged out like many who only care about cfm. LOL I always get a kick out of how people compare the base to the performer intake flow numbers when a carb intake has to flow fuel as well. Same with header size people way too often go too big and when you just make everything match and flow similar it works really well. Rock solid ignition! Too many small things tah list. I try and control heat under hood as well as intake temp. I can go for a drive and the plenum will be cool to the touch and never gets over lukewarm with the 5 mods I do to help keep it cool. I like to have people touch my valve cover then the plenum to see the huge difference. Corvettes in general heat is a big power robber!
Anyways lots of work and time spent on all the little tricks I've learned. Much of the info is on this forum or others, just gotta look for it.
I've done basic stuff like 1.6 rockers, cats delete with hi-flow muffler and good exhaust, UD pulleys, delete all the crap that you don't really need that robs a little here n there. I've spent a lot of time porting the intake plenum, shortened the slp runners to about 15.5" and I want to try another inch(basically a DYI superram when you do that, shorter runners and more plenum volume)(LS3/FAST LS intakes are about 14"). The base wasn't over ported and hogged out like many who only care about cfm. LOL I always get a kick out of how people compare the base to the performer intake flow numbers when a carb intake has to flow fuel as well. Same with header size people way too often go too big and when you just make everything match and flow similar it works really well. Rock solid ignition! Too many small things tah list. I try and control heat under hood as well as intake temp. I can go for a drive and the plenum will be cool to the touch and never gets over lukewarm with the 5 mods I do to help keep it cool. I like to have people touch my valve cover then the plenum to see the huge difference. Corvettes in general heat is a big power robber!
Anyways lots of work and time spent on all the little tricks I've learned. Much of the info is on this forum or others, just gotta look for it.
How much do you think you are making at the crank if we put the engine on an engine dyno? You really think the little tricks are going to net 100HP? Call me a skeptic but I don't see how. With the throttle body running empty vs the stock cleaner that is cut out with a K&N (SD not MAF), I was probably making 4 HP difference. 2 with just a filter element stuck on the TB.