About ready to blow my car up...
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
About ready to blow my car up...
Hey all,
So my nightmare continues with my car. I will have had it for a month tomorrow and it's generally been nothing but problems.
I knew the car needed some TLC, and so far I've replaced some weatherstripping, diff fluid, oil, brake fluid, power steering fluid, tie rod ends, tires, battery, starter contacts/plunger, but now I feel ready to give up spending anymore money it.
The problems really began a few days ago when I finally got the tires on and actually drove it for real. I had driven it about 6 miles and then the check engine light came on. The code was P0719 which is a brake light switch error, so I looked underneath the knee bolster and saw that the switch didn't look like it should have so I adjusted it. The next day I noticed that the check engine light went off and I was super happy, but then halfway through the day the light came back on.
I got it home and now it had two codes, one for that one, and one for P1870 which has something to do with the TCC and valve body. After doing some research it looks like the two codes MAY be interrelated, and after checking the tranny fluid it looked low, so I was going to swap it and change the filter/solenoids.
This morning I get the car up on jacks and notice that when I press the unlock button for the alarm (which is aftermarket) I get no response. I press it a few more times and nothing. I have to manually open the car and when I turn the key to start, I get nothing, no lights, no noise, nothing.
I took the battery out thinking maybe something drained it and hooked up a trickle charger to it. And now WTF? The trickle charger isn't showing that it's charging it. Every other battery I've hooked up to it shows the charging light, but not this one.
At this point I want to take a bazooka and blow this car up.
So my nightmare continues with my car. I will have had it for a month tomorrow and it's generally been nothing but problems.
I knew the car needed some TLC, and so far I've replaced some weatherstripping, diff fluid, oil, brake fluid, power steering fluid, tie rod ends, tires, battery, starter contacts/plunger, but now I feel ready to give up spending anymore money it.
The problems really began a few days ago when I finally got the tires on and actually drove it for real. I had driven it about 6 miles and then the check engine light came on. The code was P0719 which is a brake light switch error, so I looked underneath the knee bolster and saw that the switch didn't look like it should have so I adjusted it. The next day I noticed that the check engine light went off and I was super happy, but then halfway through the day the light came back on.
I got it home and now it had two codes, one for that one, and one for P1870 which has something to do with the TCC and valve body. After doing some research it looks like the two codes MAY be interrelated, and after checking the tranny fluid it looked low, so I was going to swap it and change the filter/solenoids.
This morning I get the car up on jacks and notice that when I press the unlock button for the alarm (which is aftermarket) I get no response. I press it a few more times and nothing. I have to manually open the car and when I turn the key to start, I get nothing, no lights, no noise, nothing.
I took the battery out thinking maybe something drained it and hooked up a trickle charger to it. And now WTF? The trickle charger isn't showing that it's charging it. Every other battery I've hooked up to it shows the charging light, but not this one.
At this point I want to take a bazooka and blow this car up.
#3
seems to be a few in here as of late that want to do this. sounds like a bad battery not the cars fault. take it in and get a load test. just sent the wife to get a new battery for the hummer so your not alone. lol
I had mine on jack stands once and flexed it so I had to ajust the door switch to shut the lights off.
I had mine on jack stands once and flexed it so I had to ajust the door switch to shut the lights off.
Last edited by antfarmer2; 12-05-2015 at 03:15 PM.
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
The thing is, after fixing the starter a few weeks ago it's been pretty solid with starting. Where are the frame straps?
The battery is probably two weeks old. :P I really don't know why it won't charge on the charger. I think I'm going to go hook it up to my other car and let it charge on there for awhile and then try it.
The battery is probably two weeks old. :P I really don't know why it won't charge on the charger. I think I'm going to go hook it up to my other car and let it charge on there for awhile and then try it.
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
Ok, so I charged the battery with my other car, put the battery back on the trickle charger and now the charging light is on. I'm going to let it sit until it has a floating charge and then throw it back in the car. I'm going to pay VERY close attention to any noises, etc that might be pulling power when the car is off.
#6
is your alt working right?
#7
Le Mans Master
Ok, so I charged the battery with my other car, put the battery back on the trickle charger and now the charging light is on. I'm going to let it sit until it has a floating charge and then throw it back in the car. I'm going to pay VERY close attention to any noises, etc that might be pulling power when the car is off.
#8
Team Owner
IF the new battery apparently has been drained of power, it sounds like you have a fairly large current drain. You need to have a digital voltmeter to check voltage at the battery. Are the battery cable ends clean? Any sign of corrosion on the negative terminal?
I would take the battery to a reputable shop where it can be charged properly and then have a load test done on it. If the battery was really drained, a trickle charger will not work at all. It would need a big charger that can produce 30+ amps to get a really dead battery to charge.
Once the battery is back in the car and the engine is running, post up the voltage you see on the dash, check the voltage output at the large terminal on the alternator, and the voltage across the battery terminals.
Checking for a current drain is fairly easy; do a search on "current drain" and you will get a number of threads that show how to do it.
I would take the battery to a reputable shop where it can be charged properly and then have a load test done on it. If the battery was really drained, a trickle charger will not work at all. It would need a big charger that can produce 30+ amps to get a really dead battery to charge.
Once the battery is back in the car and the engine is running, post up the voltage you see on the dash, check the voltage output at the large terminal on the alternator, and the voltage across the battery terminals.
Checking for a current drain is fairly easy; do a search on "current drain" and you will get a number of threads that show how to do it.
#9
Safety Car
Aftermarket alarm systems just spell doom the moment they are wired in. That would the first thing to go even if its NOT the problem, it WILL be at some point.
#10
Team Owner
So many ways to read that, so little time. The waterproof model, no doubt.
Batteries are weird things. On my 91 F-body, after 3 months the car decided not to start up when I was in the drive thru at the bank. Tow truck came and we brought it to the dealership under warranty since it was 3 months old. Another 3 months later, same thing. Both new batteries. Got the charging system checked out and it was fine. Battery lasted for 5 or so years as a daily driver. Go figure. Service manager could not believe it. He showed me the 2nd time that they checked charging system and it was on.
Batteries are weird things. On my 91 F-body, after 3 months the car decided not to start up when I was in the drive thru at the bank. Tow truck came and we brought it to the dealership under warranty since it was 3 months old. Another 3 months later, same thing. Both new batteries. Got the charging system checked out and it was fine. Battery lasted for 5 or so years as a daily driver. Go figure. Service manager could not believe it. He showed me the 2nd time that they checked charging system and it was on.
The following users liked this post:
antfarmer2 (12-05-2015)
#11
Team Owner
Know what? I'd take the alternator out and bring it to a rebuild shop and have them open it. I have had a starter and an alternator that places like Autozone tested and they were fine. Rebuild shop opened it up in front of me and we see worn parts or oil in starter, etc. Go figure.
#12
Instructor
Thread Starter
Ok, so threw the battery back in and have power, however the car still won't start. My daughter (3 years old) was in the car last night and I have a sneaking suspicion she left the interior lights on, however I don't know this for sure.
Anyways, now when I turn the key I can slightly see things on the status panel (the one with the check engine light), and I notice that the gauges BARELY move. I can also hear the AC start up and it is working, but unfortunately I'm having issues getting it to turn off. The display for the AC only shows two dashes (--) on the screen, and the radio won't turn on at all.
My best guess right now is that the Clifford alarm is stopping the car from starting, but I don't know why I wouldn't also be able to see anything on the dash.
I'm going to look for the valet button, press it a few times and see if I can get something to happen. Any other ideas?
Anyways, now when I turn the key I can slightly see things on the status panel (the one with the check engine light), and I notice that the gauges BARELY move. I can also hear the AC start up and it is working, but unfortunately I'm having issues getting it to turn off. The display for the AC only shows two dashes (--) on the screen, and the radio won't turn on at all.
My best guess right now is that the Clifford alarm is stopping the car from starting, but I don't know why I wouldn't also be able to see anything on the dash.
I'm going to look for the valet button, press it a few times and see if I can get something to happen. Any other ideas?
#13
bring the battery to full charge first or you could do more harm than good.
#14
Safety Car
This is supposed to be an educational, encouraging forum! Derogatory opinions aren't helpful!
If you want your post to have any merit, tell us what went wrong with your aftermarket system. Preferably in a separate post, rather than hijacking this post.
#15
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
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St. Jude Donor '05
x2 Rubie
Also if youre battery is weak things will work strangely, relays click etc etc. Get a new one then start testing for draws...dealing with that on a car with al new stuff wiring etc.
Also if youre battery is weak things will work strangely, relays click etc etc. Get a new one then start testing for draws...dealing with that on a car with al new stuff wiring etc.
#16
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
Ok, so threw the battery back in and have power, however the car still won't start. ...when I turn the key I can slightly see things on the status panel (the one with the check engine light), and I notice that the gauges BARELY move. I can also hear the AC start up and it is working, but unfortunately I'm having issues getting it to turn off. The display for the AC only shows two dashes (--) on the screen, and the radio won't turn on at all.
#17
Instructor
Thread Starter
If it was totally dead would the headlights and A/C still work? I can get those to work, but the car doesn't even attempt to start.
Now, I removed a lot of the Clifford alarm system and am trying to eliminate it as the culprit, however I think it might still be. I know the system links in to the starter wires and so my guess is maybe it's still linked in.
I've looked at pictures online, but I'm having a hard time figuring out where this might be and what stock is supposed to look like. I am going to post some pictures in the hopes you guys can help.
First batch will be what I removed from the car. Please let me know if any of this stuff should go back in.
Not sure if this one is stock...
Now, I removed a lot of the Clifford alarm system and am trying to eliminate it as the culprit, however I think it might still be. I know the system links in to the starter wires and so my guess is maybe it's still linked in.
I've looked at pictures online, but I'm having a hard time figuring out where this might be and what stock is supposed to look like. I am going to post some pictures in the hopes you guys can help.
First batch will be what I removed from the car. Please let me know if any of this stuff should go back in.
Not sure if this one is stock...
#18
Instructor
Thread Starter
And here is what is left....
The cable i'm holding goes towards the center of the car in a jumble of other wires. I'm not sure what it goes to since it's black or if it's even OEM, but...
I also removed all the alarm connections that were going into splices to the original wires.
The cable i'm holding goes towards the center of the car in a jumble of other wires. I'm not sure what it goes to since it's black or if it's even OEM, but...
I also removed all the alarm connections that were going into splices to the original wires.
#19
Team Owner
It can work gauges but might not be enough to turn the motor over. Your alternator could be dead as could your starter. I had a battery that was dying and if you charged it, you could get it to run. Sit for a few days and it won't. Battery was good and I took off the alternator and it too was good. Checked starter at Autozone and it was good. Checked starter again at a starter rebuild shop and it was bad. They opened it up and showed me the oil that leaked into it from leaking head gaskets, I suspect. Cleaned it up, rebuilt and haven't needed to recharge the battery for a while.
Have you taken the battery out, have the battery shop charge it overnight and test it yet?
Have you taken the battery out, have the battery shop charge it overnight and test it yet?
#20
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic