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The stock drain and fill plugs use a 17 mm allen head socket.
If yours are not 17mm, they are not stock.
VW, Porsche, and others used the same plug. Some of them used the same external threads with different internal hex sizes. I know VW used both 17mm and 14mm internal hex as well as a tamper proof torx drive.
I just went through this on my '96 and both drain and fill plugs were damaged. The 17mm would not go in, and you could see vice grip marks on the OD. I got them out ok, but did not want to put them back in. If you are wanting to replace them with the right plugs, check our the VW or Porsche part number WHT-001-937 plugs. My local dealers would not get them for me since they changed the part to the tamperproof torx drive. Some people on the forum have had better results at the dealers. I got some online from Pelican parts under the part number WHT-001-937-OEM for about $4 each plus shipping.
As others have stated, it should be 17mm. Sounds like you had the same luck I did. Double check that the plug again, as I ran into a similar problem of the 17mm not wanting to fit in. It is an extremely snug fit between 17mm bit and the plug. What can happen (if you're not the original owner) with many of these transmissions is frustrated mechanics take vice grips to every available section of the plug protruding out, in order to remove it, due to them not having the right tool for the job.
You really have to crunch a vice grip on that plug to twist it out that way and in doing so the thinner walls of the plug where it's hollow for the 17mm bit head "push in" from the pressure of the vice grips. I had the same issue. 17 mm would just act like it wanted to start seating in but wouldn't "fit". I noticed all the threads wiped off the plug protrusion and knew someone had taken vice grips to mine. I got the socket lined up perfect as it should've seated in the first place then I gently tapped on the end of the socket with a baby sledge (engineer's hammer) and it seated after a few taps. WD 40 sprayed on the plug hole helps. This also fixed the plug hole so the 17mm fits like it should have anyway.
Guess it's back to Harbor Frieght with another return.
If you asked for M17 and were sold M17 there's no need for the return. Measure what you were sold. Did you buy an M17 hex insert into a square socket drive or an M17 key?
Massage the edge of the M17 hex for the first time and then dress the plug after you've removed it to fit the M17. I've always used an M17 hex bit/no square drive and an M17 box-end to remove both the fill and drain.
Did you try the M17 in both the fill and drain?
If you wanted to shop local the plug is M24 X 1.5 but it is TP I believe. BMW - AUDI if there's no VW near you.
These cars are low, and not impervious to scrapes on the plug. feel the walls of the plug with your finger. You may find there's a lip on the edge preventing your 17mm from fitting properly.
QCVette & WVZR-1 are correct on everything. I had to buy a new drain plug yesterday because I had to use vice grips to get the drain plug out. None of my local VW/Audi/Porsche dealers had the item in stock. I ordered from Europa Parts, it was around $4.00 a plug, I got two just to have them.
For what you are doing you certainly don't need to pull the engine, but it will definitely make things easier for you to do a complete refresh.
Last edited by TorchTarga94; Dec 17, 2015 at 08:29 AM.
QCVette & WVZR-1 are correct on everything. I had to buy a new drain plug yesterday because I had to use vice grips to get the drain plug out. None of my local VW/Audi/Porsche dealers had the item in stock. I ordered from Europa Parts, it was around $4.00 a plug, I got two just to have them.
For what you are doing you certainly don't need to pull the engine, but it will definitely make things easier for you to do a complete refresh.
I would have thought from a dealer similar price, next day delivery and NO SHIPPING. Did they offer and did you price?
I want to thank everyone for the advise and tips.
What I did was tap the 5/8 hex socket in and got it out without a problem.
What I'm doing is pulling the engine to change the water pump and opti spark and to try and see where my bad oil leak is.
I took it to a so called friendly dealer to early Corvettes and was told the water pump was leaking and that's why the opti was acting up.
They also told me the rear intake gasket and valve covers were leaking
But most of the oil underneath is all around the front engine mounts.
The dealer told me $3,300 to do the job!!! So friendly!
I said forget it! What do I owe you? $280.00, Thank you so much!
Glad you got the plug out. I wouldn't pull the motor in order to change the opti/WP. Oil leaks at the valve covers and rear of the intake manifold are common. The rear main seal could be leaking, too. I'd clean off the block/dirty areas and try to locate a source, first.