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i feel like a noob, yeah i check the car in total darkness and faint flicker near the evap box, went over to that side and below #6 boot is just hanging on...light show for sure
tomorrow i plug it in, the 10 dollar o2 is coming from rockauto next week...
hope this settles it
Glad to help and like you said hope that fixes it for you.
Get the car warm, jump the ALDL connector as you would do to check codes, fire it up & rev it. The light will flash, if it flashes slow the o2 is lazy, if it flashes fast its active.
i feel like a noob, yeah i check the car in total darkness and faint flicker near the evap box, went over to that side and below #6 boot is just hanging on...light show for sure
tomorrow i plug it in, the 10 dollar o2 is coming from rockauto next week...
Absolutely I believe the worst place to shop - I'm an RA "hater" I guess but it seems many favor them. OH well.
Are the rest of the recent parts RA sourced also?
I believe if this car was a recent purchase and mine I'd probably do the complete fuel synchronization and the FPR checks. You might just look around and see if it's had the modifications done to the TBI for adjustments.
Absolutely I believe the worst place to shop - I'm an RA "hater" I guess but it seems many favor them. OH well.
Are the rest of the recent parts RA sourced also?
I believe if this car was a recent purchase and mine I'd probably do the complete fuel synchronization and the FPR checks. You might just look around and see if it's had the modifications done to the TBI for adjustments.
RA is like duct tape, my car is held together by RA LOL
i used to sync my carbs on my bikes sometimes with a drag on a piece paper like a feeler gauge, that method worked ok...
then bought a sync tool,
today i sync'd it by eyeball,....it drives way better
didn't have the right volt meter, and set off a code for the tps, so i had to adjust the tps by ear and feel, like old school timing adjustment
the car runs like a bat out of hell, could be a little rich tho, i may be bringing timing and fuel too soon
but the car loves it
mpg idk yet
Last edited by slickfx3; Dec 17, 2015 at 06:15 PM.
if it took 6 hours to get at, i pony up for an upgrade, and besides, nowadays i don't know where half the stuff is made and relabeled to fool the general public....
Last edited by slickfx3; Dec 17, 2015 at 06:13 PM.
RA is like duct tape, my car is held together by RA LOL
i used to sync my carbs on my bikes sometimes with a drag on a piece paper like a feeler gauge, that method worked ok...
then bought a sync tool,
today i sync'd it by eyeball,....it drives way better
didn't have the right volt meter, and set off a code for the tps, so i had to adjust the tps by ear and feel, like old school timing adjustment
the car runs like a bat out of hell, could be a little rich tho, i may be bringing timing and fuel too soon
but the car loves it
mpg idk yet
I had posted a similar comment the other day and then the conversation turned to "worn cam lobes" etc so I just thought it easier to just delete the post and move on. All of the FPR etc is at the rear/driver unit and it just made sense that if this was a "recent purchase" there was way more things to concentrate on. The O2 purchase maybe isn't relative. I wouldn't have been concerned with replacement until I had done other checks first.
The O2 check from "ex-x-fire" I haven't seen mentioned for a very long time, a very long time. Have you checked yet?
I had posted a similar comment the other day and then the conversation turned to "worn cam lobes" etc so I just thought it easier to just delete the post and move on. All of the FPR etc is at the rear/driver unit and it just made sense that if this was a "recent purchase" there was way more things to concentrate on. The O2 purchase maybe isn't relative. I wouldn't have been concerned with replacement until I had done other checks first.
The O2 check from "ex-x-fire" I haven't seen mentioned for a very long time, a very long time. Have you checked yet?
no when i trigger code "22" tps too low, was the only thing i checked, had to go to work
it had a code for too high
so since there is no code now, maybe the ecm thinks it's all good??? LOL
i figure the new $10 o2 is coming, but...i may check just for curious
but, i don't have a yardstick as to what is fast blinking vs. slow.... so i am just stabbing in the dark...
otoh...if it meant a 12 hour job and $$$$$$, then, you bet your a$$, i'll be figuring what's sluggish and whats fast....
Get the car warm, jump the ALDL connector as you would do to check codes, fire it up & rev it. The light will flash, if it flashes slow the o2 is lazy, if it flashes fast its active.
From the FSM:
"Field Service Mode - Fuel Injection
If the Diagnostic terminal is grounded with the engine running, the system will enter the Field Service mode. In this mode, the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light will show whether the system is in Open or Closed Loop.
In Open Loop the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light flashes two and one-half times per second.
In "Closed Loop" the light flashes once per second."
No mention of lazy O2 sensors, just open or closed loop mode. Where did the "lazy O2 sensor" information come from?
"Field Service Mode - Fuel Injection
If the Diagnostic terminal is grounded with the engine running, the system will enter the Field Service mode. In this mode, the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light will show whether the system is in Open or Closed Loop.
In Open Loop the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light flashes two and one-half times per second.
In "Closed Loop" the light flashes once per second."
No mention of lazy O2 sensors, just open or closed loop mode. Where did the "lazy O2 sensor" information come from?
Ok, its been awhile since I even thought about this procedure. Yes your right about the fast=open loop, slow=closed loop, after running a few minutes the flashing will slow down considerably . This is when the o2 sensor is displaying its status, light on=sensor is detecting a rich condition, light off=sensor is detecting a lean condition.
So yeah it doesn't pinpoint a lazy sensor, but if you don't get any flashing after a few minutes while revving up the engine I'd suspect a bad o2, especially if you have other lean/rich codes. I guess you'd use this procedure as a diagnostic aid. I found this info in a book called How to tune & modify chevy efi.
Ok, its been awhile since I even thought about this procedure. Yes your right about the fast=open loop, slow=closed loop, after running a few minutes the flashing will slow down considerably . This is when the o2 sensor is displaying its status, light on=sensor is detecting a rich condition, light off=sensor is detecting a lean condition.
So yeah it doesn't pinpoint a lazy sensor, but if you don't get any flashing after a few minutes while revving up the engine I'd suspect a bad o2, especially if you have other lean/rich codes. I guess you'd use this procedure as a diagnostic aid. I found this info in a book called How to tune & modify chevy efi.
Originally Posted by Cliff Harris
From the FSM:
"Field Service Mode - Fuel Injection
If the Diagnostic terminal is grounded with the engine running, the system will enter the Field Service mode. In this mode, the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light will show whether the system is in Open or Closed Loop.
In Open Loop the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light flashes two and one-half times per second.
In "Closed Loop" the light flashes once per second."
No mention of lazy O2 sensors, just open or closed loop mode. Where did the "lazy O2 sensor" information come from?
I believe the mention of "fast flashing" goes a very long ways back in earlier CCC (Computer Command Control) systems. I don't believe you'll ever see it mentioned in later diagnostics when it was assumed that a "scanning device" is required or the desired diagnostic tool. In the C3 section or maybe some of the earlier GM's of the same vintage. Maybe on MCS controlled?