LT1 balancer
Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
LT1 balancer
I replaced the old balancer, because the rubber was old and it was wobbling. I put the new one on and everything looks good. I have it torqued to spec.
Now I didn't have to press the balancer on. it slid on snug.
The Chilton Manual say to remove the balancer I will start at step 10
Unfasten the balancer bolts/screws, then remove the balancer assembly.
The manual only states to remove the hub with a removal/ installation tool. To install: use the removal/ installation tool.
To install the balancer: Install the crankshaft balancer and retaining bolts/screws. Then tighten them to 60 ft lbs and the hub bolt to 70-75 ft lbs.
So, I am assuming that the balancer should go right on ( like it did ) and is not a pressed on fit ( like the hub ).
Now I didn't have to press the balancer on. it slid on snug.
The Chilton Manual say to remove the balancer I will start at step 10
Unfasten the balancer bolts/screws, then remove the balancer assembly.
The manual only states to remove the hub with a removal/ installation tool. To install: use the removal/ installation tool.
To install the balancer: Install the crankshaft balancer and retaining bolts/screws. Then tighten them to 60 ft lbs and the hub bolt to 70-75 ft lbs.
So, I am assuming that the balancer should go right on ( like it did ) and is not a pressed on fit ( like the hub ).
Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
I replaced the old balancer, because the rubber was old and it was wobbling. I put the new one on and everything looks good. I have it torqued to spec.
Now I didn't have to press the balancer on. it slid on snug.
The Chilton Manual say to remove the balancer I will start at step 10
Unfasten the balancer bolts/screws, then remove the balancer assembly.
The manual only states to remove the hub with a removal/ installation tool. To install: use the removal/ installation tool.
To install the balancer: Install the crankshaft balancer and retaining bolts/screws. Then tighten them to 60 ft lbs and the hub bolt to 70-75 ft lbs.
So, I am assuming that the balancer should go right on ( like it did ) and is not a pressed on fit ( like the hub ).
Now I didn't have to press the balancer on. it slid on snug.
The Chilton Manual say to remove the balancer I will start at step 10
Unfasten the balancer bolts/screws, then remove the balancer assembly.
The manual only states to remove the hub with a removal/ installation tool. To install: use the removal/ installation tool.
To install the balancer: Install the crankshaft balancer and retaining bolts/screws. Then tighten them to 60 ft lbs and the hub bolt to 70-75 ft lbs.
So, I am assuming that the balancer should go right on ( like it did ) and is not a pressed on fit ( like the hub ).
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,492
Likes: 61
From: New Jersey
Yes the balancer just gets bolted onto the hub snout on a LT1/4 and is not a press fit. One thing however, if you haven't reassembled everything, take it off and put some anti-seize on the surfaces that contact the hub when it is bolted on. That way if you have to remove it again for opti service in a few years, it won't rust-weld itself onto the hub.
Last edited by Silver96ce; Dec 19, 2015 at 02:35 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 15,926
Likes: 579
Yes the balancer just gets bolted onto the hub snout on a LT1/4 and is not a press fit. One thing however, if you haven't reassembled everything, take it off and put some anti-seize on the surfaces that contact the hub when it is bolted on. That way if you have to remove it again for opti service in a few years, it won't rust-weld itself onto the hub.
Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Thanks guys! I just wanted to be sure, because mixed results can be acquired one searches the internet long enough.
As for as terminology goes, I am just using what the book calls it. It was also sold as a balancer pulley from Dorman, but thanks for the info.
I just wanted to be sure, because mixed results can be acquired one searches the internet long enough. As for as terminology goes, I am just using what the book calls it. It was also sold as a balancer pulley from Dorman, but thanks for the info.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,492
Likes: 61
From: New Jersey
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Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
I guess I stand corrected...although we know that it doesn't balance anything on a small chevy.
To me, this is a damper (neutral balanced)
And this is a "Balancer"...has a weight to balance crankshaft...
To me, this is a damper (neutral balanced)
And this is a "Balancer"...has a weight to balance crankshaft...
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,492
Likes: 61
From: New Jersey
Nah, Tom, you're not corrected. You are correct. I just find the use of terminology funny. It's a "dampener" or "damper" as you said. It's strange that GM just continued to call it a balancer. I guess it made it easier for them.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,528
Likes: 752
From: South Dakota
I think they continued to call it a "balancer" since it is short for "harmonic balancer". Although it doesn't balance the engine, it does dampen or balance the harmonics or rotational vibrations.
I have seen it both ways so often, it doesn't matter, we all know what the part is.
I have seen it both ways so often, it doesn't matter, we all know what the part is.
Last edited by QCVette; Dec 20, 2015 at 02:12 PM.