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On chart C-4, page 1 I can really get started at step 3.
Both terminals are 10 volts so I go to step 4.
I get no change in voltage while cranking so that throws us over to page 2.
Step 1 I cannot do. If the answer happens to be yes then it is one of the following:
FAULTY EST CONNECTION AT ECM
OPEN EST CIRCUIT
FAULTY ECM
If we assume the answer is no I can do further tests
Step 2, I do not have a test light, but I do have a very small voltage so I would assume that would be enough to turn on the test light, so we take this as a yes.
D does have continuity to ground - yes
A does read 5 volts - yes
B does read 5 volts - yes
which leaves us with:
FAULTY DISTRIBUTOR CONNECTION
FAULTY DISTRIBUTOR
Glorious, after an entire day I can assume that I've learned nothing more than what I started with, I'm just worse off because this morning it would at least start.
Ok, you mentioned earlier that you had a code 36, that's a problem with the High resolution signal from the opti. Can you test continuity from the ECM to terminal "B" on the opti connector? While you're there, test all of the wires from the ECM to the opti. I get this nagging feeling there's a bad connection somewhere.
Its possible that your opti problem is really a connection problem in the high resolution to opti circuit. Check all the connections to the opti. If power or ground are missing, it will not be able to put out any of the signals needed by the ecm.
I like the performance from electronic engine control but I hate diagnosing it.
Code 36 is a problem with the low resolution pulse and the car will run without it. I have not recieved a code 36 with the new opti.
For whoever mentiioned it I'm very sure that I have fuel. All the fuel in the world doesn't do any good without a spark.
Bogus, sure anything is possible, but here's what I don't get. The old opti would run, it would just misfire and otherwise act stupid. I put the new one on and it would fire once or twice and then quit. Now I can't get any results from either. It would seem like I could at least get it back to it's prior state.
Thats what makes me wonder if the problem isn't in the opti at all.
Code 16 is a problem with the low resolution circuit. "If the low resolution circuit becomes open or grounded, the engine will not run because the ECM will not operate the coil/driver module, fuel pump, or the fuel injectors. A code 16 will be set if the ECM receives high resolution reference signals without the low resolution signals." 6E3-C4-2
The more I think about it, the more I become convinced there is something wrong with the harness between the opti and the ECM. You should be able to put your meter on terminal "A" of the opti referenced to ground and see a deflection when the engine is cranked. Since the pulse would be 8 pulses/revolution, a meter set on DC should show voltage if the opti is sending (and if the opti is getting ignition feed from the ECM).
Hey, isn't there a small gathering of the forum at the Baymont this weekend? I wonder if there is a nice soul able/willing to help you get back on the road over there!
and...you checked the plugs for spark? Silly question....did you check all your fuses and replug any fuel pump fuses you may have taken out?
I'm a little more than 100% confident that if I don't get a spark at the coil then I won't get one at the plugs. I didn't touch anything related to the fuel system either. It has fuel pressure, that doesn't mean that the injectors are firing, however if they are not it's probably related to the same problem that it is not getting any kind of signal from the opti.
I think for a few minutes I am going to take the time to put the water pump back on and just see if that makes any difference. I could at least get some response while that was on there.
Gentlemen, I think I might have just found my problem.
My pigtail which leads to the opti has had what looked like some corrosion on the opti end. I'm not sure why, it's a greenish corrosion much like how copper does. Anyway, I haven't really worried about it because it has made up just fine using a volt meter. I thought I would make sure the opti was actually making up with this connector, I smeared some dielectric compound into the connector and then plugged it in to the opti.
Sure enough the pins on the opti displaced the dielectric compound. So I went to try and clean off the dielectric compound out of the connector and the socket for pin C somewhat came apart. Pin C happens to be Ignition Feed! Sound logical?
Perhaps it made up with the volt meter because my probe hit the outside, not trying to go inside. However, perhaps the part that the opti actually makes up with was corroded in two, making the connection intermitten at best.
Now I just have to track down one of these pigtails on a holiday weekend Saturday morning. I should be able to get one from the guy I got my opti from, I know he has one, I bought it for him, he just has to find it!
Nathan, you should also make sure that the metal connectors in the pigtail to the opti are not spread too far apart. My friends 93 had similar symptoms and the deales replaced the metal connectors in the harness which cured the issue. The dealed indicated that it was due to probing the harness. just a thiught
Well this one is blatently corroded and now quite broken. I'm sure there is no way it will ever work again. I just need to get in touch with my friend :smash:
Well this one is blatently corroded and now quite broken. I'm sure there is no way it will ever work again. I just need to get in touch with my friend :smash:
Good luck! If he doesn't have one, call http://www.tld-corvette.com Hell if they have it and you can't get one anywhere else, I'll DRIVE IT UP TO YOU! :smash: :lol:
Feel free to drive on up, but I don't need the part. I was able to get the new one from my friend. Looking at the new one I can see there was no way that the old one would work.
Apparently the corrosion which I still don't understand made the metal loose it's "springyness" and thus it wouldn't quite make up. I had put my water pump and everything back together by the time my friend called me, so I went and got the harness, rewired it to my older style connector, filled the radiator up and bled off all the air (have I mentioned how much I love the electric water pump?) and turned the key.
She roared to life with the most satisfying rumble I've heard in a long time. It seemed to idle smoothly (well as smooth as it does with the cam) and it rev'd fine. I haven't driven it yet, I need to clean up first. I'm sure it will drive just fine.
Thanks to everybody! If any of my responses sounded a little snappy I appologize for that, I've got a rather quick temper. The forum rocks!