Hello everyone I just got finished installing my nos kit and I retarded the timing by 6 degrees from the stock timing table, which is about 11 degrees retarded from what I usually run.

I was driving in third gear and before I pressed the nitrous button I put the pedal to the floor to feel the power. Then I turned on the nitrous button and pushed the pedal to the floor and I didn't feel a difference. Even my wideband looked about the same. I noticed that at about 4500 on nitrous, it sounded like I was on the rev limiter but it would keep going. Also, I know the nitrous was coming on because I wired up a "spray status" light directly to the solenoid wire. So whenever there is power on the solenoid wire, the LED in the car lights up.

Anyone know what is going on?

Thank you.

 

Honestly I don't know what is up. If you have NO2 and fuel, you WILL feel a difference. It might fall on it's face or giddyup, but something should change including your wideband. Turn the bottle off and take it out and hit the button. You should be very rich with fuel and it will bog. Then you will know what it feels like without NO2. I've forgotten to turn my bottle on and hit it. It's embarrassing. LOL I just don't see how you could have NO2, fuel or both coming into the engine and not change the wideband. You couldn't be jetted that close to perfect and not feel a difference. Hopefully it is something simple. Just a side note. 6 degrees seems like a lot to me on a 100 shot.

 

Well the timing is retarded by 11 degrees from what it usually is. Maybe that is the reason why? I'm going to try arming the system with the bottle closed and see if it gets rich on the gauge.

 

I tried it with the nitrous bottle closed and the spray status light came on but I didnt see a change in the wideband reading. When I powered up the relays for nitrous at idle with the bottle closed, I heard the motor bog down. But no change at WOT...

 

Okay so I was parked and held the RPM at about 2500. I had someone power up the nitrous relays and I watched the AFR gauge and it dipped down below 10:1. However, I didn't see any change at all at WOT when I activated the system...

 

fyi. i retarded 0 degrees on a 100 shot NX wet style system. i believe nx said up to 100 shot didnt need any retard but anything more did.

be sure you have plenty of fuel pump. the stock fuel pump is not adequete! you need a walbro 255 l/hr with racetronix relay harness

the nx system had recommended jet sizes (fuel and nitrous) to achieve 100 shot. on the dyno, i found the fuel jet sizes too conservative (ie. too rich) to achieve 100 shot. i had to lean out the fuel side by a jet or two. this should be easy for you to do without a dyno since you have an afr gage.

of course i am assuming your system is a 'wet' system and works the same way

id always feel more of a difference more so in low gear winding out vs. higher gear highway pulls.

i had lights in my vents - one for fuel, one for nitrous . that would make it crystal clear that BOTH solenoids at least had power.

is the bottle full? if that bottle is not full or nearly full every time you hit it - you will not get the same 'punch' you did when the bottle was full.

do you have a cabin mounted n2o pressure gage in your line of sight can help diagnose why one hit might not be as hard as others.

using a bottle heater to keep the psi the same as you would have with a full bottle helps, but still will not get conpletely around having a bottle anything much less than full.

lastly... in my last years of doing nitrous, i would pack my empty nitrous bottle in a jug of ice water to have it 'cooled' as they filled it up.

see compressing a gas makes it hotter and increases psi, lowering the differential between the cascade system they used to fill it and making it take much longer to fill.

in many cases the shops will rip you off only being able to put 8 lbs into a 10 lb bottle but still charging you for all 10 lbs.

i was lucky for refills: i live 2 miles from summit racing equipment and they always said 'you are a smart man' every time id come in for refills with the bottle packed in ice water

 

Problem was the Fuel Pressure Safety Switch. Was pulsing the solenoids rather than transferring consistent voltage.

 

Now that you have figured that out, are you running out of fuel?

 

had the exact sAme problem.


ended up disconnecting it and putting a new fuel filter and walbro 255 l/hr pump with racetronix hot wire harness - (for insurance)