Good morning folks. It's been a long while but I'm glad to be back. My grandfather recently passed away and with this I will be receiving his 92 Black Rose. The unfortunate thing is that this particular car has been sitting for 10 to 12 years without a start. I'm hoping some of y'all might have a few tips for start up that I can use to at least get it onto a trailer without any damage to car or engine. I know it's going to need some work but I need to get it from Florida to Oregon before I can really do much of anything to get it back on the road. I'm not planning to go get the car until about June but want to get my head wrapped around what I'm going to need sides time to make a quick turnaround there. Any information would be much appreciated. Troy

 

I would just buy a winch and pull it up or have a flat bed roll it on. it needs to be gone threw well before I would turn it over. I would put marvins mystry oil in the plug holes and let it sit for a week then hand turn it.

 

Thank you antfarmer2. I will look for the mystery oil. Unfortunately with the truck and trailer set up I will have a winch is not an option. It will be a rented cargo truck and flatbed car hauler due to the amount of stuff I will be bringing back. The ground in the area is pretty well flat but I will have only limited help. I'm thinking worst-case we can push it on but I don't want to apply that kind of pressure to any of the panels.

 

flatbed it back to Oregon. You need to change all fluids. Pull gas filler neck to check gas tank and check for rust. Probably change plugs and wires.

 

What I'm figuring so far is that plugs, battery, any rubber hoses, fluids and filters will have to be replaced. Seems like I've read in the past that the fuel sending unit would likely need to be replaced as well. I didn't think to check for rust in the tank. Thank you for that. I know he did a lot of work on the car when he first bought it but it was a run much after that and now that he is gone it's hard to go back and ask him. Most of our conversations were about other cars so unfortunately I just didn't get enough information on what he worked on.

 

I do not understand why not evan if your flying in you can buy a cheap harbor frieght winch and cable it to the trailer and pull it up. or few min with a flat bed to pick it up and roll it on the trailer. if money is tight a comealong will work.

when I moved to Texas from Michigan with a rented uhaul and car trailer. I moved two non running one car and a jeep that I put in the back of the uhaul all by myself no help at all. I pulled the jeep up the trailer then blocked it up. backed the truck up to the trailer then put the ramps up to the truck and put the jeep in granny and used the starter to back it up and over the wheel wells in the uhaul. yours will be a piece of cake!

pull the knock sensors to get a proper flush and never get the opti wet.

 

Money will definitely be tight for this trip so come along is a great option. I'm not familiar with the knock sensors. ?

 

one on either sid of the engine. they are cheap so I just replaced them. tourqe is important on them. just pinch the connectors with your fingers to remove. they must be removed to get all the fluid and crap out. you have some time so do your homework and buy a FSM.

 

Thank you much. This is exactly why am starting now. I want to have all my ducks in a row.

 

I just looked at the best route for you 43 hour trip. I am not on your way if I was I would put you up for free to help you out. maybe others would be willing to help you on your trip. what do you say guys any takers?

 

When you pull off the gas filler neck, it has the sending unit attached and you will be able to see if that is rusty also. Probably have to remove the old gas after 10 years.

Yes Harbor Freight come-along will work. You only have a short pull, but you can block the wheels and reset the come-along. Get the car back to Oregon then take care of the things you need. By the way, best Corvette man in the area if you need one is Tom Wong at Wong's Performance in Vancouver Wa....4 miles across the border.

You are correct to replace all rubber hoses.

 

Thank you John. Always nice to hear that someone in the area is trustworthy.

And thank you also antfarmer. That is incredibly generous! I know it's going to be a long route but I have to make stops also in at my moms in Dallas and dads in Las Vegas on my way to pick up other items lot I have the larger vehicle. However this plan may change between now and then and I may end up on the shorter route. That would be extremely helpful and generous of you if you're willing still come that time.

 

I would use 95 hoses and do the bypass if your not going to drive in the winter.

 

ok your going the southen route but not sure how much help I am only about a hour from your mom.

 

That's actually part of the reason why am planning to do it that time of year. I don't want to take any risks pulling through the mountains during inclement weather and a truck that is not my own. A moving truck with precious cargo is not my idea of a good winter fun.

I'm guessing they made some changes to the rubber/hoses in the 95's?

 

Her plan is to move to The Florida house and sell hers so by that time she may not be in Dallas anymore which would be the cause of change in route. Where are you located?

 

outside of fortworth in the country.

 

Obviously - all fluids are going to need to be replaced, and the rubber hoses that carry those fluids should also go. I would suggest the first thing to go would be the 10+ year old gasoline. The C4's are pretty easy to get the gas out of - you can just take off the filler cap and put a hose into the tank to siphon it out. It will be foul stuff by now. I'd recommend taking a good look at the drained tank to see if you see rust. If it's OK - I'd suggest putting at least 4 - 5 gallons of fresh gas in it. No matter how hard you try to get the old gas out - you will leave some in the tank - and you want a fair amount of new gas to "dilute" any old stuff that's still in there.

Antfarmers suggestion to pull the plugs, and put a little of Marvel Mystery Oil into each cylinder and let it sit for a little while is a good idea ! I'm going to suggest trying to gently warm up the oil pan , then drain the muck that used to be engine oil, and replace it before even trying to see if the motor will start. If the car is a stick shift - you might want to consider putting it in 4th, 5th or 6th gear, and seeing if you can move it forward (either by winching, or letting it roll down hill /getting some people to push you a bit then popping the clutch) to see if the engine will at least rotate. If it does turn - put the plugs back in, put a new battery on it, and see if it'll crank over. If the car starts - I'd drain that oil you just put in within about half an hour of run time - it's likely to be contaminated by moisture / rust etc. (I understand money may be tight - but Oil is cheap - motors are not.)

I agree that the coolant NEEDS to be changed - but it CAN wait until after you get the motor started. I also agree that you would be best off doing the full drain (where you pull the two knock sensors). IF what comes out is ugly - you might want to refill the system with straight water, and drain it out again before putting the new anti-freeze, new hoses and knock sensors in.

Stuff like power steering fluid, diff fluid, trans fluid can wait a little while - after the gas, engine oil and coolant are changed - I would do brake fluid - no telling how much moisture it's absorbed after 10 years. One or more of the brake calipers might be frozen after many many years of non-use. If that's the case - remove the offending caliper(s) and either rebuild them - or trade them in as cores on rebuilt calipers in the auto parts store. If the rotors have light rust on them - it'll go away after a few miles of driving - if the rust on them is heavy - just plan to replace them.

 

Thank you purple92 for such thorough information. Everyone's tips have been very helpful here. I can't wait to get down there and get started loading her up. It is indeed a six speed so that should help in this process it sounds like. I really appreciate everyone's help.

 

X3 . I started a 304 cj5 this way. Also I add, that after you pull the plugs and fill the cylinders with mystery oil or some type of lube ( I used slick 50 ), Work the crank back and forth by hand first before you use the starter. do not try to rush it. You are first going to need to make sure it rolls and the clutch is not engaged or stuck. Once it rolls then use a come along to pull it onto the trailer. yours is just like mine, a 92 black rose metallic with a 6 speed. Love it.