I fixed my voltage problems...$129.00
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,767
Likes: 5
From: Jacksonville Fl
I fixed my voltage problems...$129.00
I noticed my friends '96 C4 did not have the same voltage drop at idle with the AC on that mine did...so I looked at his alternator. It is a lot larger than the stock one on my '87, so I ordered one from Discount Auto Parts for $129 ( plus $35.00 core ).
The install was pretty much bolt on, except I had to do some minor clearance work to the upper alternator bracket and use a larger ring terminal crimp connector on the charg wire.
Now the voltage is steady 14.0-14.3 at 500 RPM idle with AC fan on MAX, drops to 13.6 with headlights, fog lights, AC Max.
I think my car even runs better with it. Definitely worth doing.
The install was pretty much bolt on, except I had to do some minor clearance work to the upper alternator bracket and use a larger ring terminal crimp connector on the charg wire.
Now the voltage is steady 14.0-14.3 at 500 RPM idle with AC fan on MAX, drops to 13.6 with headlights, fog lights, AC Max.
I think my car even runs better with it. Definitely worth doing.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 7,839
Likes: 22
From: San Diego, Ca
Re: I fixed my voltage problems...$129.00 (BBA)
I believe the 96 uses a 140 amp and your results indicate a decent gain at idle output. Did you change to a larger charge wire? If it needed a larger ring, might be built for a 6 gauge instead of the factory 8 which is used with the stock 105. You may also want to add a high amp inline fuse and ditch the fusible link (you would need a 10 gauge link with 6 gauge wire and that's probably impossible to find). Finally, you might want to solder your crimp so that there's no voltage drop across the connector. It can heat up if it's starts to drop voltage, possibly melting the wire.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,767
Likes: 5
From: Jacksonville Fl
Re: I fixed my voltage problems...$129.00 (SunCr)
Yes, it is a 140 Amp alternator, I did not even care about the part number because it's the only one they put on 96 LT1 C4's.
The wire size is different on the two cars, but last year I had already upgraded the charge wire to a 4 gauge and soldered the connectors.
[Modified by BBA, 11:15 AM 8/31/2002]
The wire size is different on the two cars, but last year I had already upgraded the charge wire to a 4 gauge and soldered the connectors.
[Modified by BBA, 11:15 AM 8/31/2002]
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,366
Likes: 34
Re: I fixed my voltage problems...$129.00 (BBA)
Now does this come with the pulley and fan as well?
What the procedure for upgarding the wire?
I would like to do this
[Modified by bill mcdonald, 3:28 PM 8/31/2002]
What the procedure for upgarding the wire?
I would like to do this
[Modified by bill mcdonald, 3:28 PM 8/31/2002]
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,767
Likes: 5
From: Jacksonville Fl
Re: I fixed my voltage problems...$129.00 (bill mcdonald)
It came with a pulley and fan. It is almost a direct bolt on, except the air pump to alternator bracket will have to be widened a bit to accomodate the slightly thicker mounting 'ear' that the '96 part has. I used a coarse flat file to work down about 1/16" or so until it would fit. I do not recommend taking metal from the side that goes to the front edge of the mounting ear, as that side sets belt alignment.
As far as wiring, what I did ( last year ) was use a section of car stereo power wire that was 4 gauge to replace the factory wire. The factory wire goes from the junction terminal directly behind the battery, to a fuseable link, to a wire running straight to the alternator. That is the wire I replaced.
I left the fuse link out of mine, because there is another fuse link going to the battery and to all other connections from that junction terminal, so no matter where the current goes, or comes from, any current over the chrage wire will still be fuse link protected.
As far as wiring, what I did ( last year ) was use a section of car stereo power wire that was 4 gauge to replace the factory wire. The factory wire goes from the junction terminal directly behind the battery, to a fuseable link, to a wire running straight to the alternator. That is the wire I replaced.
I left the fuse link out of mine, because there is another fuse link going to the battery and to all other connections from that junction terminal, so no matter where the current goes, or comes from, any current over the chrage wire will still be fuse link protected.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,366
Likes: 34
Re: I fixed my voltage problems...$129.00 (BBA)
Thanks for the info BBA,
those other fuse links you speak of (the battery). are they hard to get too?
I was thinking about getting a 140 amp inline fuse incase it does blow, so I can get to it easy.
Does anyone have any idea where to get one from?
those other fuse links you speak of (the battery). are they hard to get too?
I was thinking about getting a 140 amp inline fuse incase it does blow, so I can get to it easy.
Does anyone have any idea where to get one from?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,767
Likes: 5
From: Jacksonville Fl
Re: I fixed my voltage problems...$129.00 (bill mcdonald)
You can get the high current inline fuses from almost any parts store. Most of them look like solid buss bars with connectors of some sort on them.
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