Alignment
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 249
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Alignment
I'm taking my 84 to get an alignment in a few days and I have someone going to do it to different specs than stock. Just wanted to see what you guys recommend for specs. It has 20s on it and I don't plan on driving it easy on corners.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,752
Likes: 190
From: Indiana PA
Zero toe on the front really helps turn in.
If you want to corner well it takes a certain setup which may or may not work well to your liking on street use. My car is fine on the smooth highway or road but rutted and beat roads its a hand full.
You can go -.5 all around, if you can that much out of the front. That is about max for the LF with ALL the shims removed.
I don't recommend a lot of negative camber on these cars with wide tires unless you plan on doing a lot of very aggressive driving like auto-x or track days. It follows the ruts in the road pretty good.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 550
From: Mission Viejo CA
The Caster spec for your '84 is 3* +/-0.5*. This was increased to 6* in '86. The increased caster will provide better straight line stability. My '84 drives better with the 6* caster, but I don't have 20's. I would think it's even more important with 20's!
Check out this link:
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/vem...t-c4-corvette/
Check out this link:
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/vem...t-c4-corvette/
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,752
Likes: 190
From: Indiana PA
LF=-.5 RF=-1.0 Camber (those are maxed out NO shims)
Caster is whatever because I want the camber I think its around 4.5 or so.
Toe=Zero
Rear=-1 degree camber and .05 toe-in both sides for a total toe of 0.10.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
Thanks for the help. I went to the alignment shop today to get it done and something has been bent. It's been wrecked. The passenger tire is pushed back about and inch. He said if he aligned it that way it would pull to the right. I need the car to drive straight and corner well. So I didn't have it done. I think I may pull the engine and trans out and get another. What's do you guys think the shell is worth? I was thinking about maybe parting it out...
Max G’s
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,751
Likes: 78
From: Monroe OH
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Did you take the 84 to a Vette specific or someone that knows C4's. I think the front cross frame can be slightly adjusted on the C4 and will allow the ability to move one side slightly rearward than the other side. I think that this is an technique used to aid in increasing ackerman. I'm not 100% sure because I have never tried this myself, but have read it before.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
It was a buddy that has done a few corvettes before.. We looked it over pretty good but couldn't find any adjustments that would allow the wheel to push forward.. Maybe we missed something. Do you know where I can find some reading or pictures on that?
Max G’s
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,751
Likes: 78
From: Monroe OH
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Here is a nice read;
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/vem...t-c4-corvette/
Last edited by l98tpi; Feb 13, 2016 at 09:32 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,376
Likes: 111
From: Cherokee National Forest TN
If all body gaps are acceptable, doors to 1/4's, hood to doors, targa fit etc. the frame may be ok. Check left door gap @ the 1/4 panel & compare it to the right door gap at the 1/4 panel. If more than 1/8 difference the frame may be tweaked. A paint stir stick inserted in the gaps will give a quick visual.
Check for a bent lower control arm &/or A-arm mount brackets.
My 89 & 90 has fixed non adjustable lower A-arm mounts/cross member.
Steering Ackermann is adjusted by changing the location of the steering arm or outer tie rod pivot location on the lateral plane.
Check for a bent lower control arm &/or A-arm mount brackets.
My 89 & 90 has fixed non adjustable lower A-arm mounts/cross member.
Steering Ackermann is adjusted by changing the location of the steering arm or outer tie rod pivot location on the lateral plane.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
If all body gaps are acceptable, doors to 1/4's, hood to doors, targa fit etc. the frame may be ok. Check left door gap @ the 1/4 panel & compare it to the right door gap at the 1/4 panel. If more than 1/8 difference the frame may be tweaked. A paint stir stick inserted in the gaps will give a quick visual.
Check for a bent lower control arm &/or A-arm mount brackets.
My 89 & 90 has fixed non adjustable lower A-arm mounts/cross member.
Steering Ackermann is adjusted by changing the location of the steering arm or outer tie rod pivot location on the lateral plane.
Check for a bent lower control arm &/or A-arm mount brackets.
My 89 & 90 has fixed non adjustable lower A-arm mounts/cross member.
Steering Ackermann is adjusted by changing the location of the steering arm or outer tie rod pivot location on the lateral plane.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,376
Likes: 111
From: Cherokee National Forest TN
Ackermann effect is weather an inside wheel will toe in or out while in a turn. Having the wheel(s) toe out while in a turn is good for a track car.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 249
Likes: 0
So something has to be bent or moved. My passenger wheel is about 3/4-1 inch back compared to the drivers side.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 111
Likes: 1
From: Knoxville Tennessee
How did you measure? What reference point did you use? Did you measure the actual wheel base? Try measuring the same point on the center hub (either the forward edge or the rear edge) between the left front and rear and the right front and rear and see what the difference between the numbers is. I'm not doubting that your buddy knows his stuff, I'm just curious as to how he determined the wheel misplacement.
Last edited by USNavyVette; Feb 15, 2016 at 04:44 PM.