1987 Smog Pump Disassembly
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
Okay... I managed to get this far:
The plastic fan/filter can be -gently- pried off by working your way around the perimeter. The front hub has to be pressed off.. I used (3) 8mm 1.25 x 60mm screws, a 1/2-20 nut (in the middle of the screws) , a 1/2-20 bolt, a hose clamp (to stop the 3 screws from spreading when the bolt is torqued), and a small socket to press directly on the pump shaft. An impact wrench on the 1/2-20 bolt pulled the hub off. Next I removed the four rear cover screws and the cover (takes a little finesse) and set it aside. I have a press, so I pressed the shaft out of the front bearing. Be careful, when it pops loose, the whole thing goes flying. Now... how does this gizmo come apart so I can re-grease the 4 roller needle bearings on the vane supports inside? They're all dried up and full of crud. I'm starting to think I'm alone on this one.
The plastic fan/filter can be -gently- pried off by working your way around the perimeter. The front hub has to be pressed off.. I used (3) 8mm 1.25 x 60mm screws, a 1/2-20 nut (in the middle of the screws) , a 1/2-20 bolt, a hose clamp (to stop the 3 screws from spreading when the bolt is torqued), and a small socket to press directly on the pump shaft. An impact wrench on the 1/2-20 bolt pulled the hub off. Next I removed the four rear cover screws and the cover (takes a little finesse) and set it aside. I have a press, so I pressed the shaft out of the front bearing. Be careful, when it pops loose, the whole thing goes flying. Now... how does this gizmo come apart so I can re-grease the 4 roller needle bearings on the vane supports inside? They're all dried up and full of crud. I'm starting to think I'm alone on this one.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 11,470
Likes: 764
not an easy task, and my experience is very limited. the rear bearing is somewhat pressed in. i'm thinking you need some sort of slide hammer to remove the rear bearing. from there the vains slide out. the front bearing is almost impossible to remove. you might have to do some research here - google "how to disassemble smog pump," and go from there. also, view images - some good pics - should give you some good info. i'm thinking these boogers are not easily rebuild-able. good luck - if you do manage a rebuild, share the info - 
Last edited by Joe C; Feb 13, 2016 at 01:03 AM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
RE: The front bearing- Removing the drive end bearing involves melting the injected plastic retaining compound. The problem is retaining the new bearing after it is installed. RE: The rear bearing... I have several slide hammers- got that covered. But removing the bearing itself will not give enough clearance to remove the vane holders. The entire rear "cup" of the drum has to be removed. I cannot tell if the "cup" is screwed in or pressed in. There are two almost invisible stake marks at 180 degree's to each other on the perimeter of the "cup". This indicates the cup might be screwed in. I just cannot tell. I was hoping somebody knew the design.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 11,470
Likes: 764
RE: The front bearing- Removing the drive end bearing involves melting the injected plastic retaining compound. The problem is retaining the new bearing after it is installed. RE: The rear bearing... I have several slide hammers- got that covered. But removing the bearing itself will not give enough clearance to remove the vane holders. The entire rear "cup" of the drum has to be removed. I cannot tell if the "cup" is screwed in or pressed in. There are two almost invisible stake marks at 180 degree's to each other on the perimeter of the "cup". This indicates the cup might be screwed in. I just cannot tell. I was hoping somebody knew the design.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
The cup is pressed in. I was told to used a slide hammer to remove it. Unfortunately, that method completely ruined the rear bearing. I had a feeling this was going to happen, but I saw no other way to get the cup out of the barrel.
I would have gotten away with just replacing the bearings, but I forced one of the small curved "shoes" and it shattered. Have no idea where to get a new set of shoes. Also, the INA FC 66555 rear bearing is the Holy Grail.
INA FC 66555 Rear bearing slide hammer damage:
Broken “shoe”: (+ rails + springs)
(the “shoe” is the smaller curved ceramic piece)
Ceramic insert retainer inside the barrel- 2 shoes go on top and 2 on the bottom:
(Rails & springs in the long slots)
Z99503 Drive end bearing with plastic pin retainer:
J-65 Torrington Vane support needle bearings (4):
Anybody know where I can get a set of shoes and a INA FC 66555 bearing?
I would have gotten away with just replacing the bearings, but I forced one of the small curved "shoes" and it shattered. Have no idea where to get a new set of shoes. Also, the INA FC 66555 rear bearing is the Holy Grail.
INA FC 66555 Rear bearing slide hammer damage:
Broken “shoe”: (+ rails + springs)
(the “shoe” is the smaller curved ceramic piece)
Ceramic insert retainer inside the barrel- 2 shoes go on top and 2 on the bottom:
(Rails & springs in the long slots)
Z99503 Drive end bearing with plastic pin retainer:
J-65 Torrington Vane support needle bearings (4):
Anybody know where I can get a set of shoes and a INA FC 66555 bearing?
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
IE- not willing to take my chances with a rebuilt pump, and a new one (if available) cost too much.
So... besides this being a "learning experience", if I can rebuild my own I'll be ahead in the game.
If I can't find the parts, I'll buy a reman and tear it down to see how good a job they did. Then decide if I want to use the reman or just transfer the parts I need to mine.
I suspect the remans are not really "remans", but just basically cleaned up and re-greased since they don't -in general- last very long.
The funny part is, several reman sources claim to use the new parts I am looking for... which means they are either lying, or the parts can be had somewhere somehow.
I'm retired... so I have time to dick with it. But I'd like to wrap it up.
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Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
Update on the INA FC-66555....
After going roundy-round with INA they finally acknowledged that FC-66555 is indeed the correct rear bearing number. However.... it is out of production. Going by the specs of 1.5 ID x 1.875 OD x 0.5 width and:
Drawn Cup, Caged Shell, Open End, Non-Sealed Roller Needle Bearing we came up with a new number: SCE248.
Readily available.
After going roundy-round with INA they finally acknowledged that FC-66555 is indeed the correct rear bearing number. However.... it is out of production. Going by the specs of 1.5 ID x 1.875 OD x 0.5 width and:
Drawn Cup, Caged Shell, Open End, Non-Sealed Roller Needle Bearing we came up with a new number: SCE248.
Readily available.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 11,470
Likes: 764
Update on the INA FC-66555....
After going roundy-round with INA they finally acknowledged that FC-66555 is indeed the correct rear bearing number. However.... it is out of production. Going by the specs of 1.5 ID x 1.875 OD x 0.5 width and:
Drawn Cup, Caged Shell, Open End, Non-Sealed Roller Needle Bearing we came up with a new number: SCE248.
Readily available.
After going roundy-round with INA they finally acknowledged that FC-66555 is indeed the correct rear bearing number. However.... it is out of production. Going by the specs of 1.5 ID x 1.875 OD x 0.5 width and:
Drawn Cup, Caged Shell, Open End, Non-Sealed Roller Needle Bearing we came up with a new number: SCE248.
Readily available.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina