When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am going to replace the clutch hydraulics in my car before I take it out in the spring and have a question about the procedure. There seems to be a contradiction in the fsm on how to do it and I don't want to damage my new parts! I noticed a bit of black gunk in the master (po put in wrong fluid perhaps?) and I don't think the slave is disengaging completely to allow full engagement of the clutch. After sitting overnight the clutch bites hard and holds nice but after a bunch of shifts the clutch begins to slip a little bit
It clearly states to remove the slave cylinder from the bell housing when bleeding (so it can be held with the bleed screw at the highest point etc.) But a couple paragraphs down in the section talking about clutch replacement it says to ensure the clutch isn't depressed when the slave is not bolted in as it can damage the slave cylinder
My plan was to just remove slave cylinder, gravity bleed a little bit, have my buddy pump and hold the pedal a bunch of times while I open and close the bleeder then bolt the slave cylinder back in
In upstate NY we finally got our winter this week and here I was hoping to be driving my new vette by the end of February
I've only used one method and it was a reverse bleeder which went smoothly. I believe it's the best no fuss way about it similar to what was said above.
After sitting overnight the clutch bites hard and holds nice but after a bunch of shifts the clutch begins to slip a little bit
This would not be the result of insufficient bleeding; insufficient bleeding would result in a spongy pedal, and/or a clutch that doesn't fully release. Which would = hard shifting and hard to get into gear at a stop.
If your clutch is slipping, you have other issues.
Originally Posted by mwm1993
It clearly states to remove the slave cylinder from the bell housing when bleeding (so it can be held with the bleed screw at the highest point etc.) But a couple paragraphs down in the section talking about clutch replacement it says to ensure the clutch isn't depressed when the slave is not bolted in as it can damage the slave cylinder
I agree w/the other guys that there are better ways to bleed the clutch hydraulic system. However, to respond to your question directly, I feel that the FSM is in error when they tell you to remove the slave cylinder. Doing so will fully extend the slave piston...when you then press the clutch pedal as part of their bleeding procedure, you'll be forcing the slave piston against the retaining c-clip...eventually, if you push hard enough, something will break. I would not remove the slave. OR I would not pump the pedal w/the slave removed.
I had the master and slave replaced in my 86 right after buying it over 2 years ago. He had the instructions from the FSM and failed to get all the air out of the system. After failing to get all the air out for several days, I took a crack at it. I found an item on YouTube on how to use a brake bleeder tip and hose to get the air out, it was a partial success but not 100%. I worked with a former GM mechanic and he gave me a tip which I tried and succeeded. You pump the clutch pedal several times and hold the clutch down for about 5 minutes. This is to give the air time to work back up the hose to the loop directly above the master cylinder. At the end of the time, slide your foot off the clutch and let it pop back up on it's own, forcing the air out of the line back into the master cylinder. I did it a total of 2 times and at the end the clutch was rock solid, it worked for me.
That's called "back bleeding". That is my "go to" method for all SMALL hydraulic systems; clutch, dirt bike/snowmobile/motorcycle brakes, etc. Works great, no tools.
Awesome thanks for all the advice! I'll do the reverse bleed to get it close and then try the back bleeding and see where that gets me.
I want to put the new hydraulics in before I start driving it and then if the clutch isn't right I'll yank it next month. I spent most of the day today cleaning the driveway so it might be a while until I get any of the vettes back home
Awesome thanks for all the advice! I'll do the reverse bleed to get it close and then try the back bleeding and see where that gets me.
I want to put the new hydraulics in before I start driving it and then if the clutch isn't right I'll yank it next month. I spent most of the day today cleaning the driveway so it might be a while until I get any of the vettes back home
Good deal, post back and let us know how it goes.
I've got a buddy that lives in Rochester, you all got a lot of snow!
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.