Considering replacing the camshaft in my 94 Coupe. Can it be done with the engine in the car? I realize that the radiator and AC condenser will need to be removed, but I will probably be replacing the radiator anyway. A visual check looks like the crank gear removal and replace may present the biggest challenge, but I am waiting to hear from those who have more experience than myself. Thanks in advance.

 

With all that you have to remove I would consider if I had an automatic to just unbolt it and lift the engine out. I am basing this on removing and replacing the engine in my 1970 with automatic. Did not even remove the hood and left the automatic in the 1970.

 

You don't have to remove the engine. You can remove the balancer with a puller. There's actually a loop in the power steering line to allow the puller screw to get access. I had to raise the engine for the cam to clear the cross member however.

 

I'm in the process of cam swap, head job and all the trimmings on my 1994 right now. It's slow going since I can only work about an hour a day. I just finished replacing my torque converter with a 3000 stall lock-up. Now, I'm wondering if I will need to loosen the transmission support beam (C-beam) which I just reinstalled, in order to raise the engine? Also, will you jack engine up from underneath? Some say that we will have to drop oil pan which won't be possible if the engine is supported from underneath. Your thoughts? I removed the radiator, AC and alternator, exhaust manifold, all hoses, electrical connectors so far. I'm shocked at the small size of the radiator. Gary

 

Is your car about the same as my 94 Coupe? Do you need to use a special puller to get the balancer and crank gear off or will anyone do? Special tools needed when installing the crank gear and balancer? I plan on putting the front tires up on blocks to get the car up a little higher. My back is hurting just thinking about it all!

 

Our cars are almost exactly alike.

Some say you can use any puller. I used a puller like this -

When you pull the crank snout, take the crank bolt to the local big box/hardware store and get a longer bolt to install and pull against.

 

You can leave the c beam in place - you're only lifting the engine an inch or so. I had no problem.

Per the FSM I pulled the oil pan. You can re-install to lift against. Instead I took some 2x4 and a 3/4" board and made a U-shaped piece that I put on top of my floor jack to push against the pan lip on the block.

 

I did my 96 with the engine in the car; I had to unbolt the front engine mounts and jack up the engine an inch or so, It's not difficult, just a bunch of finite and labor intensive steps, so unless you're a bear for punishment, plan on doing one thing at a time over a series of days. And one of the nastiest tasks will be cleaning the engine bay, especially the front cross member; that's at least a two six pack job.

and yes you will have to drop the pan.

You're not there yet, but research pulling the hub; it's very easy, no expensive tools needed, but it is different from any other chevy small block; you'll see when you get there. And if you do it wrong, misery will follow you the rest of your days.

Good luck!

 

Unbolt the motor mount from the frame (one nut each side);
place piece of board under pan,
place jack under board; jack up engine 1 inch or so,
watch out that the various fittings at the top rear of the engine don't get forced into the firewall.
place a two small piece of wood 3/4 inch thick, one on each side, between the bottom of the motor mount and the frame
lower engine
remove jack

That's all there is to it.

I did that to provide clearance to drop the front of the pan without interference from the crankshaft; some rotate the crank and gain the clearance they need without jacking the engine up...haven't tried that yet.

 

Mine will probably take weeks. I am not in a hurry and I will only be able to work on it on Saturdays. Plus I am getting the intake and heads worked on at the same time.

I have not done one so I know I am missing something, but why does the oil pan need to be removed? I studied again the rebuild book I have and cannot see why the pan needs to be removed.

Would you elaborate a little on "do it wrong". I am on this forum to do as little "trial and error" as possible.

Thanks!

 

Evidently, it has to do with the timing chain cover/gasket and the oil pan gasket and getting a good seal. It doesn't make sense, but I guess we'll find out. From what I've read, we will need to drop the front of the oil pan in order for gaskets to seat correctly. But, one guy posted that if you're careful, and use a large flathead screwdriver to hold some tabs out of the way, you don't have to lower the oil pan. If I get there first, I'll let you know. I have to send my heads off, too.
I live in South Florida, so I really want to get this done before the hot weather

 

Thanks. Stroke of genius. I wouldn't have thought of that. Gary

 

I am taking a SWAG here that that is the reason the temperature climbs whenever stopped, esp. in the summer with the AC on.

 

The front of the oil pan gasket seats in a groove around the bottom of the timing cover. To get a good seal, the oil pan must be dropped before removing/reinstalling the timing cover. I just replaced my timing cover ('95 M6) and oil pan gaskets, and i don't recall any tabs. I did not raise the engine to do this. I did have to rotate the engine to get the crank out of the way, but that was no big deal. I also used a cheap puller from harbor freight to remove the balancer hub.

By the way, as has been posted on here recently, All Girls Garage did a cam swap on a C4. I don't remember what year, but it was a LT1 car. If you have velocity channel, you might want to look it up. Pretty good tips on doing the job.

 

This is for an F-body > http://shbox.com/ci/cam_removal.html it provides some detailed information with pictures and diagrams for swapping cams in a LT-1. For your car it can be done without disconnecting the A/C.

Here's how to put it back in > http://shbox.com/ci/cam_install.html

 

a couple notes from doing mine...

i also put in a new clutch so i removed the c beam and that made it real easy to tilt the engine up to be able to pull the camshaft straight out.

also need to pull the ac stuff and radiator to be able to pull the cam out...

while you are in there, now is the time to add a custom vent to your 94's optispark and change its cap/rotor. these steps will make the optispark 100% reliable provided you have an oem quality unit.

i would also add a weephole mod to the water pump drain hole to drain any leaking water away from your optispark instead of right on top of it.

if you have an oe acdelco optispark that is working fine, i wouldnt dare change it out for an aftermarket optispark- as they are of questionable quality (even ac delco remanufactured in china is questionable)

i would seal the optispark halves with silicone hi temp rtv for good safety measure against water intrusion. my seals were cracked and i found rust inside my 93 opti at only 26k miles!!

heck you could convert to a gen 2 optispark And vent harness since you are doing cam. just need to be sure cam has a dowel pin and if you need to adjust position of dowel pin, dont dare hammer that dowel pin in too far - its press fit and wont pull back out! i think you also need a late model 95-96 timing cover to do this.

at least put in a new timing chain while in there. the stock ones stretch and are known to be sloppy.

if you convert over to 95-96 style that will give you the option to use an lt4 extreme duty timng chain. though a bunch of guys will convert to electric water pump and do a double roller (however my personal pref is mechanical water pump so thats why i converted to 95-96 style gen 2 opti and lt4 extreme duty timing chain setup).

also prob good insurance to replace valve springs and/or upgrade to roller 1.6:1 (or above) rockers. the cam will put increased demand on your valvetrain

the timing cover / oil pan junction is a leak spot if not done right. i had a shop do a cam change for me when i was bot mechanically inclind and i had an oil leak as a result of their incompetence.

its really not all that bad just takes some time (and money)

good luck!

 

The LT4 HD sprocket and timing chain is a good idea. I did that 50K ago when I had the LT4 hot cam kit installed. If you're going to replace your cam look at the various components that the "kit" includes such as new valve springs & retainers and ... consider replacing those parts as well.

One other think that you might consider ....... replacing the lifters.

 

Read the recent thread "Broken Ear! OUCH!" by Herb, last post 02/10/2016...long story short, done wrong and you'll have a ruined hub or a damaged crankshaft snout; or both

 

Well... we all know how one thing leads to another. So... I'm thinking (dangerous) that if I have to pull the pan I may as well pull the pistons and do a ring job while I am there!? Or, else, do less like only putting in full 1.6 roller rockers and headers and call it good. It is all sound right now with no leaks. I just see me pulling that timing cover and dropping the pan and having leaks constantly, esp. when not pulling the engine. My .02!

 

whoa there big guy; pistons, ring job also means pulling heads, which means time to do a valve job...in essence a complete engine rebuild, not a bad idea, but are you willing to go that far for what just started out as a cam change?

what I did incidental to a cam change, with the pan off, rolled in new set of rod and main bearings, verified clearances with plastigage; and new oil pump; and new oil pan (Canton road race pan).

That was in addition to new timing chain, new water pump, new opti, new opti vacuum harness, new bearing and shaft for the in block end of the water pump drive, new spark plug wires, and I'm certain a few more things I'm forgetting.

The short of it, was whatever could be replaced (plus rod and main bearings and oil pump), because they had to be removed anyway, was replaced. Now rods, rings, pistons, heads is a whole 'nother story. Let us know what you decide.