High coolant temp problems/electric water pump LT1
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: Katy Texas
High coolant temp problems/electric water pump LT1
I've been having problems with the digital reading coolant temperature from a new-ish water pump I installed. Temps hit 255 on the highway at low rpms (5th an 6th gear) on the highway.... obviously way too hot and I've had to pull over way too many times and have seriously gotten lucky with no problems other than that. The analog gauge from the heads never pick up more than 230 which is I think why.
Temps never go above 230 at idle on the digital and if I run 4th gear on the highway (3000 rpms) the reading stabilizes at 205. Dont really wanna run that high of rpm to keep the engine cool.
I'm thinking my best option is to convert to the meziere electric pump either standard or heavy duty. This should keep my temps more stable with the constant flow. However, I'm concerned about the battery not being able to hold up with my subs and small amplifier in the back. Has anyone had any any problems with a situation like this? I've searched around and not found too many answers just yet.
Temps never go above 230 at idle on the digital and if I run 4th gear on the highway (3000 rpms) the reading stabilizes at 205. Dont really wanna run that high of rpm to keep the engine cool.
I'm thinking my best option is to convert to the meziere electric pump either standard or heavy duty. This should keep my temps more stable with the constant flow. However, I'm concerned about the battery not being able to hold up with my subs and small amplifier in the back. Has anyone had any any problems with a situation like this? I've searched around and not found too many answers just yet.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 7,338
Likes: 137
From: WilkesBarre PA
What thermostat, Fan settings still stock, Both fans operating properly high and low speed, air bled out, Radiator clean, air dam spoiler still in place?
My 10-12 year elect pump died at the track and had an intermittent overheat issue last season. I think it was starting and stopping at will. When I replaced it it defiantly had play and a flat spot while turning. New one in and runs 170-180 like normal. I run a 160 stat, lower fan temp settings, BeCool rad. (temps were always fine with stock rad)
If the power, ground are reversed, the pump will run backwards.
My 10-12 year elect pump died at the track and had an intermittent overheat issue last season. I think it was starting and stopping at will. When I replaced it it defiantly had play and a flat spot while turning. New one in and runs 170-180 like normal. I run a 160 stat, lower fan temp settings, BeCool rad. (temps were always fine with stock rad)
If the power, ground are reversed, the pump will run backwards.
Last edited by RichS; Mar 24, 2016 at 07:30 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,356
Likes: 2,729
I'm thinking my best option is to convert to the meziere electric pump either standard or heavy duty. This should keep my temps more stable with the constant flow. However, I'm concerned about the battery not being able to hold up with my subs and small amplifier in the back. Has anyone had any any problems with a situation like this? I've searched around and not found too many answers just yet.
"RichS" asks/mentions things you need to check/do and I would suggest the same also.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: Katy Texas
What thermostat, Fan settings still stock, Both fans operating properly high and low speed, air bled out, Radiator clean, air dam spoiler still in place?
My 10-12 year elect pump died at the track and had an intermittent overheat issue last season. I think it was starting and stopping at will. When I replaced it it defiantly had play and a flat spot while turning. New one in and runs 170-180 like normal. I run a 160 stat, lower fan temp settings, BeCool rad. (temps were always fine with stock rad)
If the power, ground are reversed, the pump will run backwards.
My 10-12 year elect pump died at the track and had an intermittent overheat issue last season. I think it was starting and stopping at will. When I replaced it it defiantly had play and a flat spot while turning. New one in and runs 170-180 like normal. I run a 160 stat, lower fan temp settings, BeCool rad. (temps were always fine with stock rad)
If the power, ground are reversed, the pump will run backwards.
Its a 195 thermostat( will change to at least 180) everything else is also stock still ( fan settings ,radiator..). A new air dam is in place. I've cleaned out plastic bags and other crap from the air dam and radiator before however after you guys mentioned it again i found a thread which explains that you really need to disconnect it and hose it down.
Looks like thats probably my starting point so thanks for pointing that out again!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 7,338
Likes: 137
From: WilkesBarre PA
Do search on the on off temp for stock lt fans. They are high and the car stock runs hotter then you think it should for emissions. They don't go on high speed till around 225/230, I forget the exact numbers off hand.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 15,926
Likes: 579
I should have said the pump in there right now is mechanical.
Its a 195 thermostat( will change to at least 180) everything else is also stock still ( fan settings ,radiator..). A new air dam is in place. I've cleaned out plastic bags and other crap from the air dam and radiator before however after you guys mentioned it again i found a thread which explains that you really need to disconnect it and hose it down.
Looks like thats probably my starting point so thanks for pointing that out again!
Its a 195 thermostat( will change to at least 180) everything else is also stock still ( fan settings ,radiator..). A new air dam is in place. I've cleaned out plastic bags and other crap from the air dam and radiator before however after you guys mentioned it again i found a thread which explains that you really need to disconnect it and hose it down.
Looks like thats probably my starting point so thanks for pointing that out again!
let us know how it comes out.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,356
Likes: 2,729
I should have said the pump in there right now is mechanical.
Its a 195 thermostat( will change to at least 180) everything else is also stock still ( fan settings ,radiator..). A new air dam is in place. I've cleaned out plastic bags and other crap from the air dam and radiator before however after you guys mentioned it again i found a thread which explains that you really need to disconnect it and hose it down.
Looks like thats probably my starting point so thanks for pointing that out again!
Its a 195 thermostat( will change to at least 180) everything else is also stock still ( fan settings ,radiator..). A new air dam is in place. I've cleaned out plastic bags and other crap from the air dam and radiator before however after you guys mentioned it again i found a thread which explains that you really need to disconnect it and hose it down.
Looks like thats probably my starting point so thanks for pointing that out again!
You mention some unusual RPM's for a stock car so there's likely to be gears. What ratio is the rear now?
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 50
From: Palmdale CA
I've been having problems with the digital reading coolant temperature from a new-ish water pump I installed. Temps hit 255 on the highway at low rpms (5th an 6th gear) on the highway.... obviously way too hot and I've had to pull over way too many times and have seriously gotten lucky with no problems other than that. which is I think why.
Temps never go above 230 at idle on the digital and if I run 4th gear The analog gauge from the heads never pick up more than 230on the highway (3000 rpms) the reading stabilizes at 205. Dont really wanna run that high of rpm to keep the engine cool.
I'm thinking my best option is to convert to the meziere electric pump either standard or heavy duty. This should keep my temps more stable with the constant flow. However, I'm concerned about the battery not being able to hold up with my subs and small amplifier in the back. Has anyone had any any problems with a situation like this? I've searched around and not found too many answers just yet.
Temps never go above 230 at idle on the digital and if I run 4th gear The analog gauge from the heads never pick up more than 230on the highway (3000 rpms) the reading stabilizes at 205. Dont really wanna run that high of rpm to keep the engine cool.
I'm thinking my best option is to convert to the meziere electric pump either standard or heavy duty. This should keep my temps more stable with the constant flow. However, I'm concerned about the battery not being able to hold up with my subs and small amplifier in the back. Has anyone had any any problems with a situation like this? I've searched around and not found too many answers just yet.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,218
Likes: 695
From: Clifton Park, NY ............Clearwater, FL ... 85 Original Owner
I should have said the pump in there right now is mechanical.
Its a 195 thermostat( will change to at least 180) everything else is also stock still ( fan settings ,radiator..). A new air dam is in place. I've cleaned out plastic bags and other crap from the air dam and radiator before however after you guys mentioned it again i found a thread which explains that you really need to disconnect it and hose it down.
Looks like thats probably my starting point so thanks for pointing that out again!
Its a 195 thermostat( will change to at least 180) everything else is also stock still ( fan settings ,radiator..). A new air dam is in place. I've cleaned out plastic bags and other crap from the air dam and radiator before however after you guys mentioned it again i found a thread which explains that you really need to disconnect it and hose it down.
Looks like thats probably my starting point so thanks for pointing that out again!
