Im speaking of this connector:
Pic is taken from internet not my actual one:
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/wp-c...acement_08.jpg

the yellow one.

I need to remove it to see for electrical connection.
It seems impossible to remove it. It needs to be removed AS A UNIT?
Thanks
-Beppe-

 

I have intermittent working conditions. WHen I wiggle this connector it's works. So I want to diagnose better the connections.

 

Follow the wire back you will find the connector 8" to a 1' back. Then you can pull the pump.

 

That yellow thing isn't a connector. It's nothing more than a molded plastic device to allow the wires into the tank, w/o allowing fuel or vapors to leak out. It's a fancy grommet, and the wires coming from them are a "pig tail" that is about 10" long.

Follow those wires, and you'll eventually (in about 10" or so) come to a 3 pin weather pack connector. THAT is where you disconnect the fuel pump/sender harness from the vehicle harness.

 

The fact is that if I wiggle this connector the fuel pump works.
If I follow the wires, they enters in a corrugated tube and the 3 pin weather pack is not visible.
Im becoming crazy. The car run good , but sometimes the fuel pump refuse to run. I wiggle the yellow thing (acually I push hard on it) and it starts to run again.
-Beppe-

 

How do you know the pump is running? When you key the car on the pump runs for two seconds. When the car is running the oil pressure keeps the pump running.

 

How do you know the pump is running? There shouldn't be power to it, ~2 seconds after key on.

ant farmer and I are posting at the same times.


You need to follow the "corrugated" tube further, then. That is called "wire loom" and it's there to protect the wire.

If the fuel pump runs when you wiggle the yellow grommet, you need a new sending unit assy. most likely. PULL the sending unit out. SEE what is going on w/the wiring, where it enters through that yellow grommet.

 

But you are just a bit slower than a Ant. :thum bs:

 

I found that the 3 wires have been cut. and the connector removed.
No problem on this. Now I remove the fuel pump to see the condition of the wires UNDER the yellow grommet.
yes when it works I feel the pump prime turning the key.

 

Well...that goes w/o saying!

 

This Racetronix bulkhead connector will do I believe what you need. You would have to fabricate a harness from this to your wiring on the chassis but it should be no issue. Many years ago I bought these a couple times from others. I'll look and make a call.

On a C4 tank unit I have here it's 11" from the yellow (bulk-head) to the weather-pack connector to the car harness. If you could see where the wires enter the bulk head you can see where it's a connector and actually if you look at the snapshot you posted you can see the "seam".

http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=BCA-4W&Tp=

This bulk-head connector could be ideal for your situation. The bulk-head is retained on the sender backside by a push nut with the spade that creates the ground. It comes with the Racetronix, I don't think it came with the other connector I bought years ago.

A possible much better buy is this package maybel for you BUT it doesn't show the retainer/spade. I can't imagine that it wouldn't.

http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...T1-BCA&eq=&Tp=

***If you can wiggle to make run it's possible that the ground is intermittent from the spade inside through the sender and the soldered wire to the sender lid. The '90 I have here has the ground soldered to the sender. When the sender is "in hand" you'll better understand.

Someone here or maybe the CAC I believe mentioned drilling a hole in the sender and soldering the retainer/spade to the sender to fix a ground issue.

 

http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...WA-C43&eq=&Tp=

http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...WA-C44&eq=&Tp=

 

I thought I was quite familiar with your website and really struggled and still didn't arrive at those. They're what I was looking for. What about the ones that I linked. Does the OE wire fit the bulkhead and does the retainer and ground spade come with the other?

I understand the importance of a $50 sale but if this was intentioned as a "REPAIR" it might be considered "overkill".

Comment please regarding the 2 in my post #11

Thanks

 

These can be used for general repair but they are designed to properly support HP pumps which draw 2-4x as much power as the factory pump. These will replace all the atmosphere and vapor side wiring as well as the bulkhead connector.

We may have what you need in our web store depending on what approach you take to fixing your problem.

Neither of the items you linked will work for the C4 application as a whole or by themselves.

 

You're telling me that the bulk-head connector is different? I can't buy that. You've got how many different 10mm bulk-head pass-throughs? I get what's needed I'm quite sure. Is the spade with the push-nut retainer included with the BLT1-BCA That should be sufficient for a repair like the OP possibly requires "POSSIBLY" - neither you or I know first hand his issue, only what he mentions.

If the spade/push on is included with this then I believe I can accommodate a friend here close that I believe has purchased the $50 package and feels there's issues in the mix somewhere.

http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.a...T1-BCA&eq=&Tp=

 

Sorry if the links do not help or are not within your budget.
We can only recommend a product which is proper for the application to assure proper operation and reliability.
DIY or parts intended for another application are purchased at the customer's discretion.

 

...and my pump is a Racetronix.

 

How long ago purchased and did you buy the $50 harness when you bought? If you purchased it's possibly an installation issue OR MAYBE, JUST MAYBE you've got a failed Racetronix part(bulk-head OR the harness bulk-head to pump). Only taking it apart can confirm.

 

I bought about 6-7 years ago WITH the $50 harness.
Never had any problem.

The problem I have is that NOT always I hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the key.

I changed the fuel pump relay. SAme issue.
The real issue is that when it starts, sometimes it dies (after idleig perfectly for 3 or 4 minutes) and I see the fuel pressure dropping to ZERO.

If I intentionally kill the engine the fuelpressure stay high (so I presume the injectors are not leaking).

If I decide to drive it It goes perfect. BUT after some time cruising normally the AFR (I have a wide band gauge), goes to 15:1 then 16:1 then 17:1 ...I saw even 18:1.
If I stomp on it It climbs to 12:1 or 12.5:1 (like it should be).

So when the pump need to deliver fuel IT DELIVERS IT.

 

Remove the sender OR maybe it's just the "plug-in" connector into the yellow bulk-head. If you've got the Racetronix I'd think they would sell you the bulk-head with the short lead I pointed out. That I believe they should consider a "service part". The connections internally to the pump? Maybe - remove sender and check.