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I have my 87 TPI system about ready to reinstall. What is the "favorite" or most common way of sealing this sucker to the aluminum heads? I.E.- Gaskets, sealer etc. The OEM gaskets were clearly leaking both around the water passage and the intake runners.
Another question: the OEM gaskets have the rear coolant passages restricted. What is the purpose? Can I use a non-restricted gasket instead (if I do use a gasket)?
Another question: the OEM gaskets have the rear coolant passages restricted. What is the purpose? Can I use a non-restricted gasket instead (if I do use a gasket)?
Short version.
It was a attempt to evenly cool down the SBC cylinders. the front cylinders water flow will degrade. if you open the rear. port path. that can result in overheating the front cylinders. FWIW The 92 - 96 LT1 does not flow coolant through the Intake.
It was a attempt to evenly cool down the SBC cylinders. the front cylinders water flow will degrade. if you open the rear. port path. that can result in overheating the front cylinders. FWIW The 92 - 96 LT1 does not flow coolant through the Intake.
Dumb question.... what makes a 87 350 have this problem when, say, a 1970 350 did not?
I'm building a 383 for my 66 and have not concerned myself with this issue.
As my own thread on doing my head and intake gaskets shows, im a noob at this. i spent much time researching "Hylomar" universal ue and i went with it. you can youtube it. its been used on rolls royce aircraft engines forever. i have no idea why more people dont use it but i suspect it is because it is not easy to find. permatex did license it for a short time but no longer due. apparently they make a similar but not as good forumulation now.
i cant attest to it being noob proof yet because i put my dizzy in backwards and overtightened my valves and havnt heard it start yet lol.
just one more type of sealant to consider.
Originally Posted by Tom454
Dumb question.... what makes a 87 350 have this problem when, say, a 1970 350 did not?
I'm building a 383 for my 66 and have not concerned myself with this issue.
In the old day there was a rubber end seal at the front and rear. They even put holes in the block and locators on the seal to hold them in place. RTV is cheaper and effective if everything is clean. Spray with "brake cleaner" to remove residue chemicals, prior to applying sealer. Brake cleaner drys residue free.
This is the correct method, IMO. This is for a Ford application, but all of the principles hold true on a C4.
The guy in the video was a powertrain engineer at Ford, and left to start Pro-M racing several years ago. That doesn't mean he's absolutely correct on everything he says, but he does have more credentials than the average Internet Joe here on the forum.
This is the correct method, IMO. This is for a Ford application, but all of the principles hold true on a C4.
The guy in the video was a powertrain engineer at Ford, and left to start Pro-M racing several years ago. That doesn't mean he's absolutely correct on everything he says, but he does have more credentials than the average Internet Joe here on the forum.
LOL... that looks like a Fox Body Mustang... I have 4 of those.
It is a fox that he's working on. I think that's his personal car, it makes about 800 RWHP, lol. I bought a stand along engine management system from him about 2 years ago and have been pretty impressed - both with the stand alone and his customer service.