AC heater control valve or ?? help
05-26-2016, 07:49 AM
#41
05-26-2016, 09:13 AM
#42
05-26-2016, 09:40 AM
#43
05-27-2016, 08:24 AM
#45
The part I am looking for is #4 in the diagram you posted (GM 1224062) it is for a 86 coupe. The clip is still there but 1/2 of the top is broken so it no longer holds on to the rod. Thank you WVZR-1 for the diagram and part numbers and I do have a 90 ZR-1 Red/Red. Thak you Big Bird 88 I found the Muscle Car parts website in Tulsa and it shows that part available but would not add to cart so I will give them a call.
Getting the part is one thing changing it out.......... wow!
Thanks to all
Getting the part is one thing changing it out.......... wow!
Thanks to all
05-27-2016, 08:33 AM
#46
The part I am looking for is #4 in the diagram you posted (GM 1224062) it is for a 86 coupe. The clip is still there but 1/2 of the top is broken so it no longer holds on to the rod. Thank you WVZR-1 for the diagram and part numbers and I do have a 90 ZR-1 Red/Red. Thak you Big Bird 88 I found the Muscle Car parts website in Tulsa and it shows that part available but would not add to cart so I will give them a call.
Getting the part is one thing changing it out.......... wow!
Thanks to all
Getting the part is one thing changing it out.......... wow!
Thanks to all
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bad-zr1 (05-27-2016)
10-09-2017, 03:04 PM
#47
Pro
heater blend door
I'm have trouble loading pics so most have no names. 3 pics are of the programmer and the other is the blend door motor mounted to the heater core assembly. I own a spare assembly.
This is my version of removing the AC programmer.
If you are of medium build then put the driver seat all the way back.
Remove the seat cushion. If the seat is still in your way, pull it out.
Take the driver hush panel out.
The area you need to reach is above the gas pedal and very near the black floor duct.
The programmer is held on by one 7mm screw a the bottom. Look at the tab on the programmer shown. That end is on the bottom.
You do just about all the work with your right hand.
You will need a 1/4 ratchet, very long extension, 7mm socket.
Remove that 7mm screw and the pull down on the programmer to free it from the top mounting tabs. The black floor duct might give you trouble.
Pull the electrical plug off and pull the programmer down as far as you can.
You will have to "deal" with all the silicone tubes as they are. There is a long but skinny bolt that holds the silicone tubes to the inside of the programmer (see pic which shows the electronics).
GM recessed the bolt head so it is impossible to use a socket so you will need pliers like shown. There is a press nut that holds the silicone block to the box. Take the pliers, find the press nut and twist it until it breaks. Don't get too aggressive as to not put a hole in a tube. The nut is very thin and will break. This is the hardest part.
Once the nut is off take a screw driver and prize the silicone block off.
The programmer is now free.
That press nut you destroyed will be replaced with a nut that fits a 1/4 socket and using a short extension and your hand (not the ratchet) to re-attach the silicone block onto the programmer.
I did not have to lay upside down to remove or re-install the programmer.
If you need tips to remove the blend door motor (and I hope you don't) I have some tips on that also.
This is my version of removing the AC programmer.
If you are of medium build then put the driver seat all the way back.
Remove the seat cushion. If the seat is still in your way, pull it out.
Take the driver hush panel out.
The area you need to reach is above the gas pedal and very near the black floor duct.
The programmer is held on by one 7mm screw a the bottom. Look at the tab on the programmer shown. That end is on the bottom.
You do just about all the work with your right hand.
You will need a 1/4 ratchet, very long extension, 7mm socket.
Remove that 7mm screw and the pull down on the programmer to free it from the top mounting tabs. The black floor duct might give you trouble.
Pull the electrical plug off and pull the programmer down as far as you can.
You will have to "deal" with all the silicone tubes as they are. There is a long but skinny bolt that holds the silicone tubes to the inside of the programmer (see pic which shows the electronics).
GM recessed the bolt head so it is impossible to use a socket so you will need pliers like shown. There is a press nut that holds the silicone block to the box. Take the pliers, find the press nut and twist it until it breaks. Don't get too aggressive as to not put a hole in a tube. The nut is very thin and will break. This is the hardest part.
Once the nut is off take a screw driver and prize the silicone block off.
The programmer is now free.
That press nut you destroyed will be replaced with a nut that fits a 1/4 socket and using a short extension and your hand (not the ratchet) to re-attach the silicone block onto the programmer.
I did not have to lay upside down to remove or re-install the programmer.
If you need tips to remove the blend door motor (and I hope you don't) I have some tips on that also.
10-09-2017, 03:44 PM
#48
Melting Slicks
jrd1990zr1, Big Bird took a very good photo looking down the blower control switch hole. The hole is not that big. I took a very long screw driver to see if my blend door was still attached to the motor. The door moved freely so it was not connected.
