HELP long story short my wife let one of those mobile car wash guys come to our house and put 10k gallons of water at 10k pounds of pressure on the vette

And guess what it cranks but won't start (water dripped heavily out of the MAF relay when I disconnected it)

So long story short battery is ok I have Checked the ignition control module it passed and replaced the ignition coil. And their is no moisture under the cap but she won't start she cranks and SOUNDS like she is right their but not enough to kick over
And I got a spray bottle and put some 89 octane gas and gave her a spray behind the MAF and nothing and checked fuel pump it's working
So I got my 86 shop Manuel out and read something about the ELECTRONIC SPARK CONTROL so I figure lets take a look at it
But useing the book has stuck me in a loop this page says it's near the battery this page says it near the trany this page says passenger side above your feet
So could anyone help telling me WHERE THE F### it is a pic would be helpful thanks

 

If it's an 86 it is between your heater blower and windshield washer fluid tank.

 

Ok thank you so much now the no start problem makes sense it looks like it is right near the firewall and it is possible for high volumes of water at high pressure could knock it out my battery tray had a puddle on the opisit side so yeah thanks

 

If it was me, I'd get some 'water dispersant' spray and pull every connection that might have gotten moist and open them up and spray it inside to help get out any water that might be in there.

Had that once with a Spitfire I owned. Used LPS brand, pulled it apart and sprayed it and once done started right up.

 

Never heard of that but I'm open to the idea I spent all weekend trying to figure this mess out and if I can avoid it again I'm game
Nothing more fun than running threw the electricals of a vette it will put a sane man right into the mental hospital

 

Just a side question what is that

 

I'd say "blower relay" for a NON ATC car.

 

I would forget about everything that led up to present and just treat this like a crank no fire situation.

That means start by testing for spark, then test for fuel ... then post your results if you need further guidance.

 

What is a NON ATC car

 

ATC - Automatic Temperature Control RPO-C68

Your car I'm very sure has NO ATC, a slider for temp control and should show C60 on the RPO label on the console door.

Your control is likely this:

 

It does I didn't know they had that option in 86 interesting
I've never seen that in a 80s c4 and I go to all the car shows here (Bakersfield ca) but on the other hand I have a convertible so my climate control is top up or down
You know you made me think hard for a minute in all the years I've had her I don't think I have ever used the heater but A.C most definitely luckily I know a place that still recharges R-12
But yeah I can see in other parts of the country that would be a nice option

 

well I took the ELECTRONIC SPARK CONTROL off and and went to 3 auto part stores(3 different franchise's) to get it tested and I guess they don't do that anymore in Bakersfield but at the last one they had 1 so I just got it for 20 💰
Came home put it on and NOTHING still cranks but won't start

What am I missing
I don't want to just throw parts at it that NEVER works
I know it's not fuel I can hear the pump running loud and clear back their and I even sprayed a little 89 octane gas in the intake (should have at least stumbled) but nothing
So it must be spark but what I thought this would be a straightforward fix
I even tried to jump it (the correct way positive to positive and grounded the neg to the alternator bracket) just to see and NOTHING
So it has to be in the cap right
Any thoughts would be helpful
Thanks

 

Ok so do you know how to test for spark ??? and do you have a fuel pressure gage ??

You might hear the pump running but that does not mean its actually pumping fuel.

Pull a plug wire off a spark plug, and stick a Philips screwdriver in the end. Then carefully position the screwdriver shaft directly next to something metal and have someone crank the engine over. A nice bright blue spark should jump from the screwdriver shaft over to whatever metal ground it is adjacent to. In the event this does not happen then you need to start your testing with the ignition system, and forget about fuel (at least temporarily).

 

High speed relay for the HVAC blower motor. It bypasses the lower speed resistors and applies full 12 volts directly to the blower motor.

 

👍 your on the same page I'm on and yes I was willing to take one for the team and put a screwdriver in the #1 plug and to my wife's disappointment NO bite so for the heck #8 and nothing
I was thinking like you on the fuel pump but I was thinking the strainer might be bunched up
Or since someone stole my race ramps (now I can't get under the car) it might be a clogged fuel filter
I even considered the worst case scenario faulty ECM but the dic is working fine (keeps all the info even after I pull the neg)
Though reluctantly I think you might be on to something with the ignition system I did pull the cap to look saw nothing but that doesn't mean nothing
And no I got to get a fuel pressure tester I just put a small towel under the valve on the rail and if it hits sky high I assume it's in the 40-45 pound range (not scientific I know) and NO I didn't do that this time
So where would a good start point be
And p.s it is NOT vats my wife proved that while I was waiting for the bite
So any help you guys could give is greatly appreciated thanks

 

Stuff I had IIRC was LPS 3 (Water Dispersant) and it worked great. I ran out of it and found a suitable replacement that did work. Got it at Red Rooster Autoparts, GUNK Wire Dryer. Only has to use it once or twice, but it did work.

 

What is the name of it we don't have Red Rooster Auto parts here but I would like to get some for the car and pool pump motor and other outside appliances. Or is GUNK what it's called

 

The name of the stuff I found is "Gunk Wire Dryer", old stuff was "LPS 3" (though looks like it may now be LPS 1 but didn't find any LPS brand stuff at the time I needed something so I bought the Gunk brand). The store I bought the Gunk brand can was "Red Rooster" but I'm sure that one or the other is available elsewhere. You're looking for something that disperses and displaces moisture plus hopefully provides a positive seal against future moisture contamination and does not leave a negative film behind. I don't know if the stuff still has the same name as when I bought it so check whatever you look at does not leave any film that can prevent electrical connectivity.

One thing whatever brand you buy is to insure it doesn't contaminate the electrical contacts etc. Make sure it's suitable for electrical components.

Found a video on LPS 1 at: https://www.facebook.com/lps.laboratories/videos/543677389125715/
I loved that LPS stuff, quick story. Originally I was at a hardware store open-house. They had a display there and the rep had a 110v open electrical relay and socket with a bulb wired up to a plug. He sprayed everything with the LPS product then with it plugged into power put the whole thing into a tub of water and I watched it cycle the light for at least 20 minutes all the while under water. Impressive to say the least.

 

Ok thanks I'm gonna get some it sounds useful

 

It's a little late, but the ESC doesn't have any direct control over the ignition system. The ESC module is just a noise filter that listens to the knock sensor that's screwed in just above the oil pan. The ESC system listens for knock in the cylinders, and then notifies the ECM of the issue. It's then the ECM's decision on whether to act on that notification (which it doesn't do while cranking the engine.)