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I bought a TDC tool, the kind that goes in the #1 cylinder. You then rotate the engine clockwise (by hand) until it stops and mark the HB at 0 degrees and then rotate the engine counter clockwise until it stops and mark the HB at 0 degrees. You the split the difference between the two marks and you have your true TDC. Problem I'm having is when I rotate the engine counter clockwise the bolt on the HB loosens and the engine does not rotate. Any one done this before? Is there another way to rotate the engine counter clockwise? Thanks for the advice.
Which bolt loosens up...the main center bolt? You can also turn the crank by one of the three outside bolts.
since you probably need the space you probably already have the pulley off already you could protect the threads of pulley bolts or find to use bolts and use them as a leverage point with a long screwdriver between them to rotate the motor
Last edited by s carter; May 20, 2016 at 08:38 PM.
Pulley is still on there it rotated with not issues clockwise. How big of a pain is it to pull the off, not much room down there. Do you need a HB removal tool?
Pull the starter or the flywheel inspection cover, turn engine w/a screw driver or pry bar in the flywheel teeth. Shorten the distance required by going past TDC a bit, screw in your tool, back then engine/piston into the tool...then rotate forward w/a wrench until the piston hits the tool again, on the "other side".
Pulley is still on there it rotated with not issues clockwise. How big of a pain is it to pull the off, not much room down there. Do you need a HB removal tool?
Center bolt already will loosen as you said just remove the other 3 and shake the balancer will remain behind reinstall the center bolt for a just in case balancer tries to wander but I doubt it would, besides that's what your marking up.
You never did say what motor or year? it makes a deference, 84 thru the L-98 have a stamped steel pulley but the LT-1's ushered in the pulley/balancer as 1 unit
Last edited by s carter; May 20, 2016 at 10:10 PM.
Pulley is still on there it rotated with not issues clockwise. How big of a pain is it to pull the off, not much room down there. Do you need a HB removal tool?
If it is a lt1 just take the three bolts off leaving the center one in. Then get under the car and smack the inside of the pully with a brass drift or one by turning as you go till your arm falls off. Pully will come off shortly after.
Sorry L98. So just take the 4 bolts out and shake it back and forth until it comes off? Looks like a new one is only 50 bucks might as well replace it.
Sorry L98. So just take the 4 bolts out and shake it back and forth until it comes off? Looks like a new one is only 50 bucks might as well replace it.
Shake will get the pulley but not the balancer, to get the balancer off that will take a puller there not expensive and usually can get from loan a tool at the part store
If you do get a new balancer or remove the old one for so reason you may want to also look for the balancer installer tool some may say tap on with hammer and seat with center bolt I'm not a big fan of that a tool for every job.
Last edited by s carter; May 20, 2016 at 11:26 PM.
Thanks for all the input ya'll. What I really need it to be able to do is rotate the engine back wards to use the TDC tool. Maybe if I take off the pulley I can put the bolts bake in and use a large screw driver to put in between two bolts and twist counter clockwise. I have the spark plugs out so there shouldn't be much resistance. Is there any thing I need to worry about rotating the engine backwards, I don't think that will be a issue.
Thanks for all the input ya'll. What I really need it to be able to do is rotate the engine back wards to use the TDC tool. Maybe if I take off the pulley I can put the bolts bake in and use a large screw driver to put in between two bolts and twist counter clockwise. I have the spark plugs out so there shouldn't be much resistance. Is there any thing I need to worry about rotating the engine backwards, I don't think that will be a issue.
Yup stick with the mission replace the balancer only if you think there's problem so leave it alone and find your TDC
What I really need it to be able to do is rotate the engine back wards to use the TDC tool.
Someone posted a pretty easy way to do it;
Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
Pull the starter or the flywheel inspection cover, turn engine w/a screw driver or pry bar in the flywheel teeth. Shorten the distance required by going past TDC a bit, screw in your tool, back then engine/piston into the tool...then rotate forward w/a wrench until the piston hits the tool again, on the "other side".
That is also a good way but I thought up a much easier way, find a large strap wrench l have a real long one for changing home water filters that would make it around the balancer or pulley
Last edited by s carter; May 21, 2016 at 08:50 AM.
Strap wrench, I like it. Since I'm only going 360 degrees back ward all the spark plugs are out so couldn't I just grab the belt right off the HB and pull it counter clockwise. The tension should move it. It may slip a time or two but it doesn't have to go far. I have seen some one do this but pulled it clock wise, he was in a pinch with no tools. It worked, he pulled the serpentine belt clockwise until the he hit 0 degrees.
I bought a TDC tool, the kind that goes in the #1 cylinder. You then rotate the engine clockwise (by hand) until it stops and mark the HB at 0 degrees and then rotate the engine counter clockwise until it stops and mark the HB at 0 degrees. You the split the difference between the two marks and you have your true TDC. Problem I'm having is when I rotate the engine counter clockwise the bolt on the HB loosens and the engine does not rotate. Any one done this before? Is there another way to rotate the engine counter clockwise? Thanks for the advice.
The easiest way for TDC depends on what ur going to repair on the engine. I myself had a head gasket failure and I planned on a much needed timing chain. So, take off the distributor cap. Point the rotor exactly at #1 cylinder located by reference on the distributor cap. I'm talking about a tuned port. I haven't done this on an lt1,so I don't know if it would work or not. But there is no need for a TDC tool if u know ur gonna do the timing chain anyhow because if ur timing chain is as slack as mine. TDC is gonna be wrong unless u use the TDC piston tool. I mean mine is real loosey,goosey!!!!