C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

'85 A/C Compressor removal

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Old May 27, 2016 | 07:39 PM
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Default '85 A/C Compressor removal

So I need to get my compressor off to get to the heater/oil cooler hoses.
The trouble lies in the bolt at the bottom of the compressor, the one half covered by the pulley.
According to the service manual there is supposed to be a couple of notches in the pulley to allow a socket onto the bolt. Unfortunately mine doesn't have these notches.
Does anyone have photos of a notched pulley so I can cut my own?
Any other suggestions?
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Old May 28, 2016 | 03:28 AM
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This is what the notch looks like. There are two of them, 180° apart.

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Old May 28, 2016 | 05:35 AM
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similar to Cliff's pic -



also, note that the bottom bolt has a flat cut into the flange for pulley clearance, and a torx recess in the head. I replaced my compressor with one that DIDN'T have the notches cut into the pulley, and I had no clearance problems with the bolt. not sure of the wrench size for the bolt - i'm thinking a 14mm (???) and the torx, i'm thinking, is a T45 (again, ??? - can't remember exactly). anyway, far easier to get to the bolt out if you use a torx socket. unless you have a set of thin-wall metrics, a standard socket has interference with the pulley.



i'm thinking there's no need to cut notches in the pulley.

BTW, if you are interested - the top, in-board bolt goes in from the rear, and makes removal impossible without removing the RH valve cover. I did this simple mod on the compressor mounting bracket that makes the compressor "remove and install" a whole lot easier.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ification.html

additional reading - https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...r-removal.html


Last edited by Joe C; May 28, 2016 at 07:14 AM.
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Old May 28, 2016 | 09:24 AM
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the infamous ac bolt.

DO NOT strip this bolt.

i will go out to myshop and get u a photo of the exact setup to remove the bolt.


Originally Posted by Joe C
similar to Cliff's pic -



also, note that the bottom bolt has a flat cut into the flange for pulley clearance, and a torx recess in the head. I replaced my compressor with one that DIDN'T have the notches cut into the pulley, and I had no clearance problems with the bolt. not sure of the wrench size for the bolt - i'm thinking a 14mm (???) and the torx, i'm thinking, is a T45 (again, ??? - can't remember exactly). anyway, far easier to get to the bolt out if you use a torx socket. unless you have a set of thin-wall metrics, a standard socket has interference with the pulley.



i'm thinking there's no need to cut notches in the pulley.

BTW, if you are interested - the top, in-board bolt goes in from the rear, and makes removal impossible without removing the RH valve cover. I did this simple mod on the compressor mounting bracket that makes the compressor "remove and install" a whole lot easier.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ification.html

additional reading - https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...r-removal.html

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Old May 29, 2016 | 05:39 PM
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sorry it took me so lo g. i got wrapped up in starting and running my 85 after a long long refurb project.

in the process of trying to photograph this for you i dropped my bit into the engine!

t45 i think it was. the bit is missing from the pic. you need to align the notch with the wrachet. then, you need to spin the head of the bolt once loose so the cut head slides out through the notch. look at the head of the bolt and it will make sense.

also is a shot of the bolt through the compressor. u can see it if u shine a light down there. it helps to ensure the torx is aligned. DO NOT STRIP this bolt.

<br > <br > <br >
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Old May 29, 2016 | 08:58 PM
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Thanks for the help fellas!
Once I saw the pictures, I realize I do have the notches, but for whatever reason the back edge of my pulley also covers the very top of the bolt head.
I tried to remove the idler pulley for a little extra working room, but this happened:




I think the idler is now to be considered permanently attached.
However a T45 did the trick. I'm thinking a long allen head with a washer will be going back in though!
I would like to know what sadist routed the fuel lines THROUGH the bracket.
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Old May 30, 2016 | 08:31 AM
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50/50 acetone/atf best penetrant there is. better than any storebought penetrant. mine resides in a small oiler can.

Originally Posted by 1cooldaddyo
Thanks for the help fellas!
Once I saw the pictures, I realize I do have the notches, but for whatever reason the back edge of my pulley also covers the very top of the bolt head.
I tried to remove the idler pulley for a little extra working room, but this happened:




I think the idler is now to be considered permanently attached.
However a T45 did the trick. I'm thinking a long allen head with a washer will be going back in though!
I would like to know what sadist routed the fuel lines THROUGH the bracket.
Reply

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