crowz

After uncovering the car from sitting for awhile and cranking it up the blower motor wont come on. I tested the wires at the motor and putting the test leads from my meter into the plug that connects to the blower motor itself I show 12 volts. So it seems to have 12 volts positive and ground or I wouldn't get a reading.

After finding this I jumped in the truck and drove 60 miles round trip to get a blower motor. Installed it and still no blower motor running.

Suggestions?

Has anyone run into this before? This is the c68 electronic climate control setup.

PatternDayTrader

Use a test light. It's too easy in the blower circut to have voltage and not enough amperage. This is so common that at least one tech in the last Chevy garage I worked at had fabricated a "test light" out of a headlight bulb .....

crowz

Sorry I didn't update this sooner. Got sidetracked redoing the door weather stripping.

The blower controller module is bad. I traced all the wires and when the blower motor itself is plugged in it reads 0 volts on the 12 volt power wire going from the module to the blower motor. With the blower motor unplugged it reads 12 volts like its supposed to.

mtwoolford

I'll be interested in learning how you handle this issue.

crowz

I'll post the steps I did testing it with pics and the howto on changing it out. Just have to wait for the module to get here. Its an easy swap as I had to do this on the 86 I had.

mtwoolford

what year is your car? earlier cars used a fairly conventional and inexpensive series of resistors....however...on my 96 they were replaced by a circuit board and heat sink...which, if you can find one, is expensive

joechiefhief

My blower motor will not shut off when I shut motor down?

crowz

The year isn't what effects resistors vs circuit board. Its the manual vs automatic climate control that makes the difference. Mines an 87 but it as the electronic climate control so it has the blower motor controller module. The manual mechanical controls would of just had resistors.

PatternDayTrader

Yes exactly .... give the current a path to ground and voltage drops to zero. It won't even light a test light. A high impedance volt meter will actually pick up the voltage when the circut is open but zero amperage will flow. The very same thing will happen if you ground a high impedance meter to a battery terminal and then touch the plastic battery case near the vent, you will get a reading, maybe even full battery voltage but no meaningful amount of currant can flow.