When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi that is the ecm coolant temp sensor i think or the cold start sensor on early c4s.
i used the oil pressure switch above the oil filter, fitted a T piece and oil pressure switch on one side and supply to blower the other end.
I have a flexible braided oil hose from the T piece to blower oil feed.
The oil drain from blower is in the driver side of sump, google vortech L98 instructions online for position to fit the oil return adaptor on side of sump.
He is referring to the hole below the temp sensor. It is an oil line tap. I cant say if it will provide enough oil for his needs though.
Now, i should find a smaller pulley in my P600B.
I have now 6 rib 2.6" and I think it produces more boost than 6 psi what I want.
What size pulleys would you recommend? 3.5"? 4.0"? 4.25?
I found a few from eBay.
I´m almost ready. I just finished the high water tube. Next I need to finish my custom made methanol tank and a little electrical work...
I hope you are not making the meth tank from aluminum. Meth and aluminum is not a good mix. Corrosion will be bad.
A sea aluminum it is a little bit better than normal aluminum.
But my friends have used aluminum tanks for several years and no bigger problems have been. Of course I use 50% water and 50% methanol.
And I have heard also that methanol can corrode the aluminum slightly.
Is there any counter somewhere where i could count the pulley size?
On the aluminum, I have friends running meth in drag cars and corrosion is a problem for them. Could be just because they spend so much time parked. probably will not be a problem for you. No clue on the pulley. I really like seeing someone doing this on an old school small block.
I won!! It's alive....but it's not quite ready yet. After winter i still need to adjust ECM and test methanol injection.
I hope this project of mine will help someone else.
I first tested without the intake tube because I wasn't quite sure how my rebuild succeeded but the supercharger worked fine, the sound is great!
I first installed an high flow Aeromotive gas pump.
New alternator relocated kit
I installed a filter on the supercharger oil inlet because this supercharger had broken because the oil filter was clogged. Now I can replace the filter only with a new one.
New cooler plugs in the right slot
Methanol / Water tank with Aquamist pump
Tank mounted on spare wheel housing
Filling the tank
A hole had to be made in the hood for the supercharger
A local metalworking shop made me a new 3.0 "and 3.4" pulleys
I won!! It's alive....but it's not quite ready yet. After winter i still need to adjust ECM and test methanol injection.
I hope this project of mine will help someone else.
I first tested without the intake tube because I wasn't quite sure how my rebuild succeeded but the supercharger worked fine, the sound is great!
I first installed an high flow Aeromotive gas pump.
New alternator relocated kit
I installed a filter on the supercharger oil inlet because this supercharger had broken because the oil filter was clogged. Now I can replace the filter only with a new one.
New cooler plugs in the right slot
Methanol / Water tank with Aquamist pump
Tank mounted on spare wheel housing
Filling the tank
A hole had to be made in the hood for the supercharger
A local metalworking shop made me a new 3.0 "and 3.4" pulleys
Thanks!
i dont have any inline oil filter on mine. I hAve the oil line t’d off of my oil pressure sensor right above my oil filter adAptor. Maybe thats always filtered oil?
the oil return is a nipple welded into my canton 8 quart pan. I welded it to it at a point jusT above where the oil would sit with a full 8 quarts. Despite my best attempts with PTFE thread sealant, theres always a slight oil leak. Nothing that drips but just dirties the bottom of the pan outside.
i Had to notch my hood underside too. Of course my blower is on the pass side - but yep I had to do that.
for pulleys....i cant remember if you have the blower being driven with its own belt (180 deg wrap on its pulley And the crank pulley) - but really thats the only way to do it. Sharing the serpentine belt with the s/c usually results in belt slip at the Crank pulley bc it doesnt have good 180 degree wrap.
theres also a woodruff keyway in the crank that you can use to key to an aftermarket harmonic balancer pulley. If youve already done all this / my apologies for not reading your post closely.
greg at blowerworks sold me an ati superbalancer 6+8 superdamper pulley. It has 6 grooves for the normal serpentine belt and an 8 groove portion to drive the s/c. I am using one of gregs 2.75” diameter rib slotted 8 rib colletted pulleys on the p600b.
my p600b is the corvette model with the 3.35:1 step up ratio vs standard 3.05:1
for pulleys - i think you are gonna want that 3.0” one or smaller. Esp to build boost down low . I run a 2.75” pulley on mine and i build 11-12 psi boost at 6000 rpm.
I wanted to make sure that s / c gets as pure oil as possible and so i installed a separate filter.
The AC Delco engine oil filter is capable of filtering larger than 25 micron but this KTM motorcycle oil filter can filtering about 5-10 microns. But anyway my idea is that the nozzle will not clog and then s / c would get no oil at all.
The nozzle was clogged with the previous owner and I rebuild this completely.
The first test runs have been run. I haven't been able to adjust the ECM yet but according to PLX wideband, the AFR drops at full throttle to 12.5: 1.
And there is a lot of power!
I have not yet installed the methanol injection, but I have tested it functioning on windscreen.
After the test drive, some oil dripped onto the exhaust manifolds and after researching it I realized that the engine breather needed to be improved.
Oil had been spilled from the oil dipstick, oil cap and oil pressure sensor.
Next I install the oil catch cans without the PCV valve. I hope it improves engine breather and stops excess oil leaks.
For example, Moroson breather tanks:
I couldn't tell from your video, but is your PCV system still as it was stock? If so the passenger valve cover is being pressurized by the supercharger all the time as it comes in from in front of the throttle body. I simply capped that port on the throttle body and put a breather filter on that side. On the driver side I added a check valve to the line. The factory valve doesn't seal well against the pressure once you open the throttle. These two modifications to the system keep the crankcase from getting pressurized and the system still works as intended. I haven't installed any catch cans as I haven't seen the need.
Ive got an elite engineering catch can Plumbed inline with the pcv valve. I put a check valve onto the pcv valve (to keep from pressurizing the crankcase under boost). The check is a must.
i run an oil catch can thinking that if there is some blowby -lets catch it there vs. send it back thru my intake/heads and dirty them up.
Unlike an lsx motor, it doesnt catch a lot of oil !
Let me know your pulley size and boost numbers with the upgraded impeller you are running in your p600b
i recently went to a 2.625” pulley, and a gates rpm (aramid) no stretch belt on my p600
im seeing and feeling more boost down low. This graph only shows up to 5200 rpm or so with the new pulley/belt (the comparison is to the old pulley/belt)
I no longer have the original PCV system.
The EGR is plugged
I want to remove the entire PCV system, then install the catch can with two out inlets and an air filter. ( for example: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-85468 )
First, I install the hose on the passenger side valve cover to catch can
Block the throttle body outlet
Remove the orginal PCV valve
Block the driver´s side intake outlet
Install a one way check valve to driver´s side hose
And install the hose to catch can
I no longer have the original PCV system.
The EGR is plugged
I want to remove the entire PCV system, then install the catch can with two out inlets and an air filter. ( for example: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-85468 )
First, I install the hose on the passenger side valve cover to catch can
Block the throttle body outlet
Remove the orginal PCV valve
Block the driver´s side intake outlet
Install a one way check valve to driver´s side hose
And install the hose to catch can
Or did I misunderstand something?
That's how yours is currently set up? If so: that port on the throttle body that you're hooked up to is always supplying pressure to your valve cover. I just plugged that port and did a breather filter. (I couldn't find one that fit my valve cover locally and just put the filter at the end of that hard line. Finding something better looking is on the list of to do's) The PCV valve on the driver's side doesn't do a good job of keeping pressure out when the throttle is open. I added a check valve in that line.
Ive got an elite engineering catch can Plumbed inline with the pcv valve. I put a check valve onto the pcv valve (to keep from pressurizing the crankcase under boost). The check is a must.
i run an oil catch can thinking that if there is some blowby -lets catch it there vs. send it back thru my intake/heads and dirty them up.
Unlike an lsx motor, it doesnt catch a lot of oil !
Sorry to Hi-Jack. But it pertains to this topic-Thanks in advance!!
Where is your source of the pull/suck for the pcv/check valve?
On my 1992 with P600B I was going to follow the BlowerWorks instructions which pulls from the air filter (inlet of ProCharger). I was going to use a separator and/or filter as to keep some of the dirt from entering the engine.
For the opti I am keeping it as stock with the check valves.
03-12-2019, 12:56 AM
