kt22magic

Hello Everyone,

Recently purchased a P600B Procharger kit for my ’89 vette with a mostly stock L98. I’ve had some second thoughts about installing it recently since the car’s mileage is relatively high (169,000 as of this weekend).

On one hand I want the extra power that the kit should provide but on the other I’d like the motor to last. Anyone have experience with this kit or thoughts in general? Any input is appreciated.

Thanks,
Kevin

dizwiz24

motor will last fine if you know what you are doing.

dont believe the nitrous companies BS (nitrous is better than a blower becUse its not running all the time).

a blower freewheels (causing virtually zero loss on mpg or extra engine wear until you go to wot (loss of vacuum closes bypass valve and now the blower is pressurizing your intake).

get in touch with greg at blowerworks

kt22magic

Thank you for the info I appreciate it. Definitely agree with the nitrous statement and am not looking to go that route.

So the blower won't pressurize the intake unless you're at wot? Would it make all the additional power at the top end then? Granted I'm new to forced induction but I didn't know that.

I'll be sure to reach out to Greg.

Thanks again,
Kevin

cv67

Not saying you cant or shouldnt but who puts a blower on and doesnt excercise that right foot? Thats a lot of miles, will it last, perhaps.Or not
Your call.

It may pressurize your crankcase oil has to go somewhere
Just do it if it goes it was gonna anyway. 350s are cheap
Blower are lots of fun

Pwnage1337

Run it. If the bottom end goes to **** do a standard 355 rebuild with mild supporting mods for boost. That's what I'd do

dizwiz24

p600b is a great blower for that app.

Its plenty big enough,comparable to a vortech t-trim (not a smaller s-trim).

Very reliable. Oil fed (which I prefer).

I know because Im running one and theres 60000 miles on my p600b!

Its only drawback is its somewhat noisy making a squeal(like a loose fan belt and a jet engine) at idle.

Once driving, you hear zero noise (other than a slight jet turbine noise when you get on it and it gets rev'dup or blowoff valve noise. which I think is cool)

to avoid pressurizing your crankcase, you need to put a check valve on the pcv valve and possibly any other vacuum valve into the engine

Greg @blowerworks knows all the quirks of the l98 (and lt1) to make this work on a c4 vette. How to tune, etc

Talk to him!

No problems with mild boost/stock bottom end with his setup. WIll last a long time provided its already in good shape

kt22magic

Thanks for the replies everyone, I have to say you guys have mildly convinced me to continue with the P600b install. 60,000 miles is very impressive I must say.

If i can find the room I may try to pick up a spare L98 and build it for if/when the motor goes.

Anybody have a spare L98 that'd bolt up to a ZF6?

C4vettrn

If I was you I would sell it to me for a couple hundred $$ and you will sleep better at night

dizwiz24

be prepared for a few years of work.

my time table was like this:
march 09: bought used p600b kit (for lt1 c4)
august 09: got it running and was driving it. put in wideband o2 (in one bank only) to monitor air fuel ratios closely
oct 09: realized that i was only getting 6 psi max boost vs 9 when i first installed it. problem was due to belt slip
mar 10: greg at blowerworks built me a custom 8 rib dedicated drive bracket for it.
jul 10: made 480 rwhp
winter 11-12: wanted more power and installed afr 195 comp ported heads. dropped compression to 9.7:1 and put on a smaller pulley for more boost. ditched prochargers restrictive air to air intercooler for just purely meth/water injection

may 2012: installed extra gsl392 fuel pump in addition to walbro 255 l/hr pump as insurance

oct 2012: dyno'd 510 rwhp at 5600 rpm when i cut it off (to check air/fuel ratios) did not have attempt to run higher rpm as i ran out of time on dyno and another customer was waiting

april 2014: installed 2 bar map and converted tune to a tunercat 2 bar map tune. so now i have fueling coming on with boost

MrBigDee

Here is my P600B project to my -86 L98 automatic.

First I bought a broken P600B from my friend. Next rebuilding all internal parts. The bearings were totally broken and also impeller shaft was worn.

This was start situation.



Impeller was worn....



next I can see that the shaft was worn out...



The shaft was totally broken



Next I polished the cases and bracket




New items came from superchargerrebuild.com



Next, I started to stack up all parts






Next a new D1SC billet style impeller



Enclosure sealing



Finally I finnished my rebuild..





And here is the current engine room. I need to buy few parts before I can get start installing it.
I hope this will help orhers to start rebuild itself.

MrBigDee

I need some help. I have -86 with L98.
Could someone say the dimensions between the bracket and the head unit?
I know there must be some spacers but i don´t know the dimensions.

slow_zo6

years ago I was in similar shoes and decided to install a sc on my L98.
My advice-don’t bother. Not worth all the parts needed or the money considering it’ll still be slow.
I would either enjoy the L98 for what it is or do an engine swap.

slow_zo6

dizwiz24

PM sent !

MrBigDee

I made my own measurements and next I do the aluminium spacers between bracket and the head unit. Then I can continue my project.

gerardvg

As others have mentioned a high mile engine will suffer blowby which will pressurize the crankcase, that will force oil out the dipstick tube and gaskets.
the front harmonic ballancer and rear main seals especially, that forced me to build a new engine.
The engine was pulled at 170,000 miles still ran great but oil leaks were driving me crazy even though the check valves were fitted.
I had a vent at dipstick tube and rocker covers to a oil catch can.

As long as the blower kit includes a modified chip to control distributor advance with water / methanol injection you will have a reliable setup.
I prefer that to the vortech FMU that forces more fuel thru injectors as boost rises.

MrBigDee

What kind of FMU you recommend?
or I'm not really sure I need it at all...what I have heard from others that it does not necessarily have to be at all.

gerardvg

Vortech have the FMU that are rated 8:1, 10:1 or 12:1 or adjustable which means it restricts the fuel return to force 8 psi more fuel pressure through the standard injector per psi boost. That is the minimum required for reliable and adequate air fuel ratio as boost rises, methanol injection cools the boost and allows more advance which = more horsepower.

I found the FMU worked great, have run 8- 10 psi intercooled boost for many years without any issues even on the standard 350 engine.

I could run higher boost without an intercooler with the methanol injection setup in conjunction with the FMU and standard rate 24lb injectors.
Its ultra reliable and cooler running than just the FMU and intercooler.

see below for FMU info.

http://legacy.vortechsuperchargers.c...e.php?id=30031



http://legacy.vortechsuperchargers.com/images/71.pdf

MrBigDee

What do you think, can I take oil outlet of that plug into my Procharger?
It is above the timing chain housing.

gerardvg

Hi that is the ecm coolant temp sensor i think or the cold start sensor on early c4s.
i used the oil pressure switch above the oil filter, fitted a T piece and oil pressure switch on one side and supply to blower the other end.
I have a flexible braided oil hose from the T piece to blower oil feed.

The oil drain from blower is in the driver side of sump, google vortech L98 instructions online for position to fit the oil return adaptor on side of sump.