I'm just about ready to take the motor out (by Tuesday I hope). All that I have left is to disconnect both exuast manifolds and transmission. The cherry picker is already in my garage ready to be used.
I'm just not quite sure where to hook it up to. I've seen pictures where it's bolted to the front and the back. This looks to me like it would take up more room and make it harder for removal.
I understand that there is a plate that bolts to where the carberator goes, but on my '89 I'm not sure where it bolts to.
Oh yea. I've already removed the intake manifold and the valve covers. I think that I need to put the valve covers back on as I'm sending the complete motor on to be rebuild.
(1) Do I need to put the intake manifold back on as that's where the plate bolts on to and is this the best way to connect to the engine?
(2) If this is the case and my friend can't find his plate, where can I look to find one in a timely manner?
(3) If he can't find his chain, would one that I have lying around the house work or is it modified some way?
If anybody can think of something that I should be aware of, I'm all ears (eyes).
Thanks

 

It seems to me that I used the exhaust manifold bolt holes to bolt the chains to. One bolt/chain to the rear of the motor on one side and the other to the opposite side on the front.

 

Sounds good to me. I'll take a look at it.
Anyone else?

 

We used the extreme ends of the exhaust manifold holes too.

Why do you have to put thing back to take to the shop? The more you take off, the less the shop has to take out (charge you labor) before any work can be done to the engine. I thought that you only take the block and heads to be rebuild. Unless you want to pay him to do everything. For that cost, I rather buy a crate engine, with stainless steel valves and better pistons.

 

I used accessory holes with chain mounted diagonally. Went at it from the side with the cherry picker, but that is a pain. I had the trans out when I pulled mine. forget the plate as it won't work with TPI.

 

VQT88Vette, does your crate engine offer a 3yr/75Kmi labor and parts warrentte for $2100 and change? Have you compaired what Jaspers has to offer? If you find something that I missed, let me know! They are paying for shipping too. I just want this car to be a reliable drive for the next two years until I can retire her, and then maybe a newer C-5? Soory her idea.
Mash557, thanks for letting me know about not being able to use the plate. that's what I was looking for. Know I need to figure the best way to hook the chain up to the motor.

 

I used accesory hole on the drivers front, and bellhousing hole on the passangers rear.
For instalation I think I will try the exhuast manifold bolts (kinda scary hanging off alum though isnt it?)

One tool that made it easier to me, a leveler. Can be had for $40 at harbor freight, has chain with it...

Goodluck!
Matt

 

VetteRacer282, what does the leveler look like? Is this something that normally comes with the cherry picker when you rent them?

 

I have always borrowed a picker. First time I did the guy had a leveler, this time I went and bought one.

Its a big peice of metal with chain holes on each end, with a big threaded bolt through the center of it, has a hand crank on one end and the peice in the middle is locked in place so it moves the whole leveler...

Lemme see if I can dig up a pic, or go take one really fast :)
Matt

 

http://www.cumminstools.com/tap/tools/3150.html
:)

I think it was about $40 at harbor freight....

Matt

 

$2100 is very good price. Provided that you can reused all the engine parts except new rings, bearings and new set of seals. I hope you know the engine builder pretty good.
I paid $1200+ for the block work. We used to live in southtern CA too and the price for block work down there was ~half of what I paid up here in PA :mad. $1900 for parts including new trick flow aluminum heads since the shop wants ~$600-$700 to do my 88 aluminum heads. I reused the crank, cam and piston rods. This is not including many trips to local parts store to buy missing bolts, nuts and new parts from Jeff Kopp "18carfan". we have to do the all the work at home.

A leveler would help a lot when you pull the engine out and put it back. Do you have long extension? If you're planning to leave the trans. in the car, you'll need a very long extension and a universal 14mm socket to loosen the bellhousing bolts.

 

VQT88Vette, I'm trying to work through some challenges that another Forum member has had at his place of work on another current thread. I'm going to see if I can post the thread:http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zeropost?cmd=reply&id=3968390
Yes I'm leaveing the tranny in so, how long of an extention are you talking about? 12",24" etc? I'm still trying to locate everything to disconect at the transmission with my manual.
Thanks so much for the input.

 

Can you explain to me just how the leveler helps. I'm not only justifing the cost (only $29.00) but hopefully I'm not going to use it again.
I'm going to have enough help to get it out once it's disconnected. Is this device that helpful?
Thanks so much again for your help!

 

Can't you just rent the leveler for the hoist? I did. It does help if you are doing it by yourself. I would think if you have two guys to help tilt the motor as you hoist it out you should be okay. The most useful time to have the leveler is putting the motor back in. Again, a couple strongarms might work for you. I found that getting my motor in place with the right engine mount not bolted to the block worked the best for me. After getting it in just the right spot I bolt the engine mount to the block with the three bolts. My mount interferes with getting the engine in right. Don't know if it would for you tho.

 

It's so cheap I didn't think of renting it. I don't mind buying it as long as it keeps from having a PIA. Just trying to figure out how valuable it is.
Thanks