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I've something strange about damper. When it is idling seems Is vibrate a little. I'm not be able to tell you if it's just an optical effect or it's really vibrates. anyway just throttle a little and isn't vibration anymore.
Have you ever noticed this on your cars? Mine is 1995
Last edited by Christi@n; Jun 2, 2016 at 06:03 PM.
I've something strange about damper. When it is idling seems Is vibrate a little. I'm not be able to tell you if it's just an optical effect or it's really vibrates. anyway just throttle a little and isn't vibration anymore.
Have you ever noticed this on your cars? Mine is 1995
What do you mean by vibrates ?? The whole car ? Just the engine ? or it looks like at idle its sort of wobbling ?
Its seems like none of them are perfectly straight....there is probably nothing wrong.
If you know where you set your igntion timing try checking it again and see if its not where you set it last.This might be a sign of the outer ring on the dampener spinning-loose.
What do you mean by vibrates ?? The whole car ? Just the engine ? or it looks like at idle its sort of wobbling ?
Its seems like none of them are perfectly straight....there is probably nothing wrong.
If i look at the cranckshaft damper, (with engine idle speed) it seems to swings or to wobbles as you said respect its frontal plane. (Hope this explanation works better)
Surely all block is swinging at idle, though PS or belt tensioner pulleys seem not to have this swing.
Anyway just push a little on throttle and this swing disappear
Last edited by Christi@n; Jun 3, 2016 at 05:26 AM.
So what you advise me to do?
To Check torque specs of that three bolts?
I've already try to grab it by hands, and it seems to be pretty stiff
The three bolts will do nothing it is in two pieces with rubber in between. I would mark it with chalk or something to see if it moves also use a straight edge on the front and look for marks on the timing cover.
The three bolts will do nothing it is in two pieces with rubber in between. I would mark it with chalk or something to see if it moves also use a straight edge on the front and look for marks on the timing cover.
Just to be sure, i'm speaking about harmonic balancer... Is it mades in two pieces with rubber inside??
Just to be sure, i'm speaking about harmonic balancer... Is it mades in two pieces with rubber inside??
Yes but it not really a balancer more of a damper. If you need to change it. Take the three bolts off and tap and turn from the underside with a drift or one by. Keep tapping and turning till arm falls off damper will come off shortly after. Put antisieze on new one to save arm next time.
Yes but it not really a balancer more of a damper. If you need to change it. Take the three bolts off and tap and turn from the underside with a drift or one by. Keep tapping and turning till arm falls off damper will come off shortly after. Put antisieze on new one to save arm next time.
There's no need to remove anything other than belt and intake rubber hose to remove damper, i'm right?
Also if i will mark it with chalks should i see if two pieces are slipping? That's right?
Last edited by Christi@n; Jun 3, 2016 at 06:55 AM.
If i look at the cranckshaft damper, (with engine idle speed) it seems to swings or to wobbles as you said respect its frontal plane. (Hope this explanation works better)
Surely all block is swinging at idle, though PS or belt tensioner pulleys seem not to have this swing.
Anyway just push a little on throttle and this swing disappear
Ok so your explanation is accurate. Once the engine speed picks up, its still wobbling, its just spinning fast enough you cant see it.
So everything Antfarmer said is true. You can use whatever you want to mark it, wax pencil, paint marker ect ... I would just add that some amount of lateral runout is normal. Even though there shouldn't be any. Pretty much all of these that have some miles on them will have some amount of runout. So if it were me, my action plan would be to mark it properly and inspect it daily until I was convinced that it was either ok or about to self destruct. I would not skip to just replacing it even though there wouldn't be anything wrong with that.
Last edited by PatternDayTrader; Jun 3, 2016 at 06:07 PM.
#1 the damper hub is pressed on with no key although the crank has a keyway.
In my opinion all dampers at 20 years need be replaced !
I sell the ATI 6+8 SuperDamper. It will replace your stock LTx balancer and has an extra 8 ribs if you ever go the blower route. It also has the keyway to match the GM.
If interested e-mail me: greg@blowerworks.net
Yeah that ATI unit looks like a nice piece. It probably does everything better than the gm damper.
As antfarmer eluded to. There is no way on earth I would voluntarily agree to remove and reinstall the crank hub with the engine in the car, and I have the correct tools !