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Hello out their I'll make it simple does anyone out their got any advice or tips on replacing the ignition control module
Long story short got a no start problem did the run threw got a code 42 replaced the ignition coil didn't start ( i was by myself so couldn't do a spark check at plugs) so next step is module RIGHT? (checked main ground and others) so since the coil was stock I imagine everything in the cap is
So what is the best way of replacing the module? The FSM says go way out and remove the air filter get the #1 cylinder to the top and yada yada
So what is the best way to go about this just looking for input before this weekend thanks
Dielectric grease is basically an insulator, heat sink compound (heat transfer paste) conducts heat away from the ICM. The dielectric grease you could use on the electric plug or in spark plug boots.
Well that would explain why when I pulled the stock coil it was bone dry on the bottom
So to save myself the mark up at the auto store were would I get a small tube of that I would say radio shack but I don't think we have any anymore
Do you have a name of the product thanks
For the rubber pad under the coil with the button you do use dielectric grease. I'm talking bout the control module surface that sits on the distributor body, you want to dissipate heat into the alum dist body.
BestBuy use to have some, but prob cheaper to get some shipped off ebay if you got the time. Or you might try a computer store of sorts, like a repair shop.
edit: Since I built my own desktops I figured it out long ago with my Trans Am
Really why? The FSM says to use a dab of dielectric grease I'm not pokeing holes in the boat just curious as to why? Is it thicker or something
Dielectric grease is not as efficient for heat transfer but if you have nothing else, I suppose you can. When you buy a new ignition module, you can simply use what is in the pouch but if you want better stuff, well
Well I guess you guy's are right I went to a computer usa store and got a small tube of some stuff that is good up to 80k volts that should be more than good enough
But on an other note about replacing the ICM what can I expect. I also have a 78 pace car (c3) on that one I can pull the cap and move it over without unplugging the cap can you do that on a c4
I just want to make this a smooth operation as I said I love my vettes but hate working on them and with that beeing said I know these girls they like to do that OH YOU THOUGHT YOU WERE DONE BUT WHAT ABOUT THIS so I like to be fully prepared if you guys know what I mean especially here in Bakersfield nothing sucks more than getting into a project then run into a roadblock and do the auto part store marathon (going place to place all over town) just to hear what year is your vette NO we don't have one here
This should be a 15 min job right from what I see it's just 4 toggle screw things for the cap and 2 screws for the ICM right I'm just asking cause I've never done it before and I don't want to do it again on the side of the freeway at summer time if you know what I mean
This should be a 15 min job right from what I see it's just 4 toggle screw things for the cap and 2 screws for the ICM right I'm just asking cause I've never done it before and I don't want to do it again on the side of the freeway at summer time if you know what I mean
So I take it It is not so straight foward what should I expect. That's why I like these forum's I have been their too many time's it should be like this but really it's like this (for example I had the heater core out in the 95 pace car she was in parts all over the garage for about a year now that sucked) talk about look before you leap
Speaking of ICM's, does the heat paste have to be silicone based? I ordered a coil and module from Ecklers for my 94 and of course it came with no paste. I bought the thermal compound from Radio Shack ( Ceramique 2 part # 2801098). Will this do the job? It contains no silicone. And why am I thinking that this looks like more of a daunting task than what I've read here? Thanks. You guys are always very helpful!
The cpu stuff I use has silver in it, just put it on the heat xfer surface and don't get it all over.
edit: Maybe go read or watch a vid on how to put the paste on a cpu, you don't need a lot just enough to fill the gap between the two smooth surfaces so one can transfer heat to the other easier.
remove cap, remove rotor if needed, rnr icm, careful on all plastic plugs.
Originally Posted by 86 pacer eric
So I take it It is not so straight foward what should I expect. That's why I like these forum's I have been their too many time's it should be like this but really it's like this (for example I had the heater core out in the 95 pace car she was in parts all over the garage for about a year now that sucked) talk about look before you leap
Speaking of ICM's, does the heat paste have to be silicone based? I ordered a coil and module from Ecklers for my 94 and of course it came with no paste. I bought the thermal compound from Radio Shack ( Ceramique 2 part # 2801098). Will this do the job? It contains no silicone. And why am I thinking that this looks like more of a daunting task than what I've read here? Thanks. You guys are always very helpful!
The heat sink paste commonly used in electronics is zinc oxide (white, very thick and messy). That's what I use. You can also put it on your nose if you're going to the beach and feel in a '60s mood.