My high RPM miss just went to a really bad miss 2 days ago. Took it to the Chevy Dealer today to have diagnosis done. The verdict, #7 Spark plug wire is arching somewhere. If this wire were on the pass. side. I would say no problem (sort-of)! But, it is on the drivers side (92 LT-1). I can't even see (from any angle) where that wire goes to the distributor. Dealership wants $460.00 to change plugs and wires.

Any suggestions on how to go about this. Something besides what Chevy said. "You got to pay to play!"

Any help is greatly appreciated. :confused: :nopity

 

change them yourself, although some of them will be a real bitch to get at

use MSD 8.5mm wires and some NGK or AC Delco plugs

 

For that kind of money, you surely can do it yourself. Not sure how to get at it for I do not have that model, but I'm sure its not that difficult if you take a real close look at the layout. The #7 should be the last one on the drivers side closest to the firewall.

If they are routed from underneath. Try getting at it from underneath a SECURELY jacked up car.

Your probably gonna get some cuts and bruises while doing it. I remember the first time I changed the wires and plugs on my l98. It was a good 4-5 hour job. Now with the headers, I can do it in less than 15 minutes.

Good luck. I'm sure some lt1 guys will chime in.

 

Did the ones on my '95 a few weeks back. $460 is a reasonable price if you are not into self mutilation. When I did mine I had to remove a bunch of stuff and then it was easier. The problem was trying to figure out how to get the stuff off. The two real keys were removing the tensioner pulley and tensioner(only one bolt each) and moving the power steering unit foward about a half inch to feed the wires in and out behind it.

Do a search on back articles and read them.

Good luck, I feel your pain.

 

how do you loosen the power steering unit in order to move it forward?
:cheers:

 

You can change the wires by accessing from the top and bottom. The pass. side is a breeze. The drivers side will have to be done mostly from the bottom. Be sure the car is up on ramps or otherwise safely supported. Replace them one at a time to avoid confusion at the opti. It isn't rocket science, just a little time consuming.. OEM parts should run around $125. and put the rest of the $460 into your pocket. :yesnod:

 

Its got 4 or 5 bolts that you loosen (get a miror to see them). There is enough play in the metal lines to allow it to move forward a bit. Don't go too far you only need enough room to get the first wire out and the last one in.

 

in my haynes manual it looked like one of them was behind the pump...how do you get to that one?
:cheers:

 

460 is reasonable it books out at like 4 hours but can be done in about 2 if your patient and dont have to go far for band-aids :)

 

This subject has been covered a few time before. Best advice is to a search on the subject on the forum.

 

Grape, I met you at Knoxville dragway (I was in my wifes Miata :bb )
If you can wait till I get back, we can do it at my house. Which dealer did you use? None in Knoxville that I have found are very good. Fox in Oak ridge is bad on service. Reeder isnt much better. I'd either use Beaty or Fox in Clinton and ask for A.J. At any rate, good luck. If you even need help, and I'm in town, let me know.

 

I'd get out the old Haynes manual and do it myself. Save yourself some bucks. If you don't want to do it, I can't vouch for any of the dealerships close to you ( I see you're in Oak Ridge). I've dealt with West Chevrolet on the motor mile for getting certain parts for my Vette. They've been good about getting things quick and not screwing me on the price. I haven't heard any complaints on the service department, but I'd check them out first. :chevy

 

I just did mine over labor day weekend and it took a little time. The even side is easy (except for changing plug #8) and changing the odd side isn't that difficult. You just have to remove the ASR module (4 bolts) and also remove the belt and tensioner (1 bolt). 3 of the wires go behind the smog pump and 1 goes in front of it (if you look under the AC compressor you can see where they go). If you take your time you can remove and replace them 1 at a time. Took me about 6 hours total, so if you can dedicate this Sat. to getting it done it will save you a ton of $$$.

 

Contrary to popular belief, if you take your time, they are VERY easy.

If you follow these steps (not necessarily in the same order) you will make easy work for yourself.

1. Remove the wheel well liners and your life will be much easier.
2. Remove the accessory drive belt
3. Take off the tensioner (one bolt)
4. move the ASR out of the way (not totally necessary, but with just one bolt, it is a lot nicer!)
5. (optional) undo the A/C pump (again, just 4, easy to access bolts, and it makes life EASIER)

When removing the plugs, if you have a long extension or 2 or 3 of the 3" extensions in your tool collection, along with a universal joint, you are golden. To get to the plugs which are further back, put just the socket on the plug, then from underneith, put the socket driver into the socket and rachet away. You might want to break them loose from up top, but there is limited room for racheting, so attacking them from the bottom works great.

tips:
1. Put a little silicone on the boots which mate to the optispark on the driver side to slide them between the power steering pump line. You won't have to move anything and they go in EASY with the silicone (or some motor oil or anything else slippery).

2. You might also want to remove the 4 wire retainers which are bolted to the heads. This also makes life a little easier. Go easy on the plastic retainers as they will break easy.

Start in the morning, and you should be done in time for lunch; maybe more or less, depending on how fast you are. Once you do it once, it is a piece of cake and can be done in under an hour. It is all about learning the tricks the first time around. Save the $460 for some headers or put it towards new tires.

Again, it is all about taking your time and be patient. Wair a pair of latex gloves to stay clean and avoid scrapes if you want.. :lol:

I was afraid to work on my C4 because it SEEMED like everything was a pain to get to, but after doing the plugs, it gave me a great bit of confidence, and now I am pulling my engine for all kinds of mods (and fixes :D ).

Good luck! :cheers:

Mike

 

WoW ! Do you write tech manuals ? You should ! :yesnod: :yesnod: :yesnod:

 

I happen to be a programmer, but I have been told that before though! :lol:

I am just getting started in the land of pistons and Vettes- about 3 years now (at the same time at is so happens). Before my 90, and my current 95, I have had 7 RX7's, loved every one of them and could put on headers at night, in a parking lot, with no light. Sick yes... But to me cars are one my passions. I love this forum and you guys because I am learning so much and it could not be on a better car or greater bunch of people! :cheers:

Mike

 

Not sure a bought your model i have an 86. But my suggestion is to buy new Taylor made wires and cut them to length and make them yourself and use a center bolt wire loom kit

 

It just so happens that I'm taking the motor out. Would it be better to install the plugs and route the wires before replacing the motor into the car?
Thanks

 

I will definately be putting the plugs and wires back on the motor before I put the motor in the car.

I did not plan on pulling the motor when I did my plugs and wires a few weeks back, that is why it seems like I am doing things a little out of sequence.

The plugs and wires are not that bad to change, but I never said they were fun! :lol: I like a challenge as much as the next guy, but not torture!!

Mike


[Modified by ninetyfivevette, 7:15 PM 9/10/2002]