LT1 water pump questions

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Sep 10, 2002 | 12:52 PM

rocketfinger

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Burning Brakes

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From: Jupiter Florida

LT1 water pump questions

I pulled my water pump this weekend after seeing something resembling coolant splattered on the side of the alternator and on the hood. Not a lot, but enough to make we worry about the opti-crap.

There is some very slight indication of leakage around the weep hole and beneath the shaft seal. Haven't opened it up yet, but the bearing seems good; rotates smoothly with no play. The drive gear, on the other hand, has significantly more play than I would have expected.

Now a few questions:
1. Is it possible/worthwhile to replace the seals in this water pump?
2. Is some radial slop on the drive gear normal? (I'm thinking it might be to accomodate the rigid coupling, but it just seems wrong.)
3. Would plumbing the weep hole away from the opti be worthwhile?
4. The opti is coming off to be cleaned up and inspected anyway, would it make more sense to pull the timing chain cover, replace the timing set, pitch the water pump drive gear, and retrofit an electric water pump?
5 Is there special machining or other weirdness necessary to retrofit an electric water pump?

Any input you blokes can offer is greatly appreciated. :yesnod:

Sep 10, 2002 | 12:57 PM

Nathan Plemons

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Re: LT1 water pump questions (rocketfinger)

If you decide to retrofit to an electric pump you don't even HAVE to remove the timing cover. I would just to remove the old water pump drive gear and then seal that hole in the cover. It's just one more place leak that you don't need.

Sep 10, 2002 | 01:37 PM

rocketfinger

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Burning Brakes

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From: Jupiter Florida

Re: LT1 water pump questions (Nathan Plemons)

Quote:

Maybe I didn't wipe off enough belt crud, I was under the impression that the drive gear shaft sticks through a hole in the top of the timing chain cover. Is that actually a seperate piece?

Sep 10, 2002 | 01:41 PM

SPD DMN

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From: Sachse Texas

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Re: LT1 water pump questions (rocketfinger)

There should be no play in the gear. You can remove the gear and coupling leaving the drive gear sticking out of the timing cover if you convert to an electrical unit. The rest of your work in addition to the pump choice of keeping it stock or going aftermarket electrical is all dependant on how much work you want to do. You could just replace the pump with a stock unit and be done with it.

Sep 10, 2002 | 01:42 PM

Nathan Plemons

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Re: LT1 water pump questions (rocketfinger)

You're right, it does stick through a hole and you can't remove it without removing the timing cover. Some people just let it freewheel. I don't like that because for me it caused an oil leak. Without the water pump there to hold it straight it could wobble around and wear out that seal, then it throws oil everywhere.

I've long since removed that gear which allows you to install a good timing chain, and I had the timing cover welded to cover that hole.

Good as new :) Just like it was never even there.

Sep 10, 2002 | 01:46 PM

MarkLT1

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From: More cowbell...

St. Jude Donor '04

Re: LT1 water pump questions (Nathan Plemons)

And an easy way to plug that hole- a nickel fits it perfectly.. take it, a nickel, and about 15 bucks to a machine shop, and they should be able to wild it right in place.. Then you can literaly say your car is nickel and diming you.. ;)

-Mark

Sep 10, 2002 | 01:57 PM

rocketfinger

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Burning Brakes

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From: Jupiter Florida

Re: LT1 water pump questions (Nathan Plemons)

Quote:

Without the water pump there to hold it straight it could wobble around and wear out that seal, then it throws oil everywhere.

That would definitely happen. :yesnod: I was surprised to see that much play on that shaft but in the absence of a flexible coupling, you have to account for shaft misalignment somehow, so I thought 'well, that's pretty half-azzed engineering but ok...' Either way, looks like the cover has to come off, so I guess we're going roller timing set and electric pump.:D

I like the nickel idea. From now on anything I have to fab will be made from currency so I can actually show people how much money I have in my car. :jester

Sep 10, 2002 | 02:04 PM

MarkLT1

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From: More cowbell...

St. Jude Donor '04

Re: LT1 water pump questions (rocketfinger)

Quote:

I like the nickel idea. From now on anything I have to fab will be made from currency so I can actually show people how much money I have in my car. :jester

The last part about the nickel and diming was a joke.. the actual nickel idea wasnt though.. Nickel is a GREAT material for welding, it is strong, but soft enough that the welding shop should be able to get a real nice weld on it. A friend of mine used a nickel, and I was going to, but they had a plug that was just the right size, and used that instead.

You will definatly love the double roller/electric waterpump combo. When looking at the timing sets, Engine Works makes a GREAT set that gets overlooked. It is a billet double roller set, with a pre-stretched chain. The thing is SOLID, and is less then $150 (the coyles billet set is ~$400). When you remove the old set, take note of how loose the GM chain is.. then see how nice and tight the new timing set is. Gives you some good peace of mind. I know Chris (lcvette on the forum) at Next Gen carries the engine works double roller set. He is a great guy, and is wonderful to work with. You reach him at 910-457-4332, or by email: lcvette1@aol.com.

-Mark

[Modified by MarkLT1, 1:09 PM 9/10/2002]