TO make this short, I have a 1989 corvette and when driving from speeds of about 10 to 25 maybe 30 it makes a clunking sound from drivers side and I think the rear wheel area. As I speed it up it becomes a little more rapid. But what gets me is that if I give even the slightest amount of brake pressure it goes away completely and comes back a few seconds after letting off. I also have a rattle somewhere on the front that only appears when going on a bumpy road and almost sounds like key jingling together, which it is not, and it also goes away with slight brake pressure when driving.

Not sure if any of that is correlated, but any suggestion on what to look for would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Stephen

 

I've had the same problem and the prevailing suggestion I've seen seems to be U-joints for clunking in the rear. I can't verify, though.

 

Hi

Don't forget to check the exhaust for the cause of random clunk noise at the back of the car, The universal joints usually squeak and click when they need replacement.

Check the front brake pads have the spring clips fitted, not many notice and the front brakes will rattle without the clips.
See pictures below.

 

Check the bushing on the suspension arm in the wheel well area. I believe it's the sway bar. Mine did that. The front is probably brake pads as suggested.

 

If the clunk happens also when you shift from neutral to either drive or reverse with the brake held, I'd suspect U-joints. If on the other hand only while moving and it goes away when the brakes are depressed, I'd suspect the brakes.

 

Thanks for the items to check. Brakes will be checked for sure along with some of the rear bushings. U joints seem to never be replaced since ive owned or previous owners records. Any certain brands to get or stay away from? I think I will do them all in a few weeks and get that over with. Also any tips on them?

Im gonna go from there for now and hopefully get this fixed.

Also are blistein shocks from rock auto for $380 a good price? Looks like mine are starting to deflate a little.

Thanks, Stephen

 

Good article that includes doing U-Joints: http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...d.php?t=144562
Just go as far as needed.
I used Moog's, others prefer Spicers. You can get ones with coated caps to prevent interaction between the caps and the aluminum shafts.

I made a little tool to work in a hydraulic press to ease removal and install of the u-joints without putting extra pressure on both sides of the shaft. Worked out well.

 

Nice tool I like that no pushing with smaller socket on upper halfve and then pushing back out.

 

Got the idea from something I saw online comparable to a hand held balljoint press but for U-joints. Difference is that cost something like $200+ and this didn't.

It helps during the install too. If you push the caps in 'a little' too far during assembly, it works miracles. I put the caps and retainer snap rings into the half shafts, set the one side down on a piece of 2x4 and had a piece of cement rebar about 12" long. Put the tool on the cross of the u-joint (put some tape on them first just to insure I didn't mark them by accident) and give it a little tap down the hole where it normally attached to the hydraulic press (obviously it wasn't on the press, doing it freehand on the floor), like if you were tamping dirt around a fence post, do one side then the other. It gently pushes the cap back down against the retainer clips, perfectly centered in the half-shafts.

I already had the hydraulic press and it cost me about $10 and a couple of hours to make the tool (total of 3 welds IIRC). In fact the pieces that fit on the cross of the u-joint are some left overs from the piece I used under the half shaft in the press. Just get them aligned, welded onto the ends of the 2 bolts and used a cutoff wheel to remove what wasn't needed.

 

Forgot to put an update on the thread, but it was that the brake pads did not have the little springs on them and that was the issue.

I am probably gonna get new pads soon or try to find a spring itself since that is all it needs and due to the fact that they pads are still pretty new.

I looked at the u-joints and they seem fairly good but may get some for a few months in the future.

THanks for the help.