C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Mobil 1 Question

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Old 07-27-2016, 02:49 AM
  #21  
aklim
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Originally Posted by DGXR
plus the manufacturer says so :-)
Who is the manufacturer again? General Motors that became Government Motors after they got so FUBARed that they had to beg for money?
Old 07-29-2016, 10:19 AM
  #22  
Crossed Flags Fan
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"a friend that owns a garage ... told me that a customer told him that he his brother, a janitor at a well known oil company was cleaning the men's room when he heard engineers talking about the Oil Change Interval..."
?!?!?!?
Well that sounds just about as good as hearing it from the mouth of God.
Old 07-29-2016, 10:23 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Crossed Flags Fan
Well that sounds just about as good as hearing it from the mouth of God.
Better than that if you don't believe in a deity.
Old 07-29-2016, 10:31 AM
  #24  
DGXR
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Originally Posted by Crossed Flags Fan
"a friend that owns a garage ... told me that a customer told him that he his brother, a janitor at a well known oil company was cleaning the men's room when he heard engineers talking about the Oil Change Interval..."
?!?!?!?
Well that sounds just about as good as hearing it from the mouth of God.
I think the post was intended to be tongue-in-cheek...
which is why I asked if these "engineers" were discussing conventional or synthetic
Old 07-29-2016, 10:55 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by DGXR
I think the post was intended to be tongue-in-cheek...
which is why I asked if these "engineers" were discussing conventional or synthetic
Yup, no disrespect intended....

Last edited by Crossed Flags Fan; 07-29-2016 at 10:55 AM.
Old 07-29-2016, 11:09 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Crossed Flags Fan
Yup, no disrespect intended....
And that was the way I took it.
Old 07-29-2016, 03:49 PM
  #27  
Purple92
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Originally Posted by aklim
Then you are fast and cheap. I get the K&N filter for $15 because of the nut that allows me to unscrew it easier and with that kind of oil is $32 around here. I can't even get that sort of time for my MBs which doesn't require the car to be lifted. With those, I have a cartridge style filter and a wrench takes the cap off, pull out cartridge and replace and screw it back on. After that, I have to fill it, run for a minute and let it settle down, check level and then wipe off any spills with brake cleaner. Oil removal is done by topside which sucks oil oil out but you spend time to get the air compressor up to pressure. Dump oil into cans and bring it to Autozone or something.
Just out of curiosity - you say that you use the K&N filters, and that used to be my brand of choice, but all of a sudden the reviews of them went from nearly all positive to a whole bunch of negatives (about 12 - 18 months ago). Seems that K&N went from having the filters made by Champion Labs to having them made in Mexico, and a number of people have been reporting problems (leaking at spot welds, bad threads etc.) on a "major retailer" website. I still have a few Made in the USA K&N's - but I've gone to buying Mobil 1 filters for a while (also made by Champion Labs). Just wondering if you have had any problems or even seen a difference with recent production K&N filters (country of origin is Ink Jet printed on the filter itself). I also really like that 1" hex on the filter bottom.

To the OP - alkim's early answer is still the best - do an oil & filter change - drive the car somewhere around 5,000 mi, drain the oil - but after about a quart drains out - get a sample, and send it off for a real oil analysis. That will provide a fact based answer about the oil's ability to keep lubricating. Let that be your guide.
Old 07-29-2016, 04:19 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Purple92
Just out of curiosity - you say that you use the K&N filters, and that used to be my brand of choice, but all of a sudden the reviews of them went from nearly all positive to a whole bunch of negatives (about 12 - 18 months ago). Seems that K&N went from having the filters made by Champion Labs to having them made in Mexico, and a number of people have been reporting problems (leaking at spot welds, bad threads etc.) on a "major retailer" website. I still have a few Made in the USA K&N's - but I've gone to buying Mobil 1 filters for a while (also made by Champion Labs). Just wondering if you have had any problems or even seen a difference with recent production K&N filters (country of origin is Ink Jet printed on the filter itself). I also really like that 1" hex on the filter bottom.
I use it for my Vette because the K&N 5050 fits right on the snout of the TB and I don't have to have all that piping around. We did pick up some power with it completely off on the dyno vs having it on and the worst was the K&N panel filter which was using the stock air box with the slits cut off. Since I already paid for the dyno time, we fooled around a bit with the paper, K&N panel, K&N 5050 and nothing. IIRC, it was about a 20HP gain between the panel filter and nothing with the K&N 5050 coming between the two. IIRC, the paper was a little behind the K&N panel.

Well, you try looking at what the size of a K&N 1995 filter for a Ford Excursion is and realize how hard you have to crank it or it leaks and you will be glad for the nut. In the winter, when I took it to Wal-Mart, they broke the strap wrench they used, got another one, broke it and finally, I went home, got my own heavy duty one and it worked. Now with the hex nut, it makes life easier in the winter when I don't want to lay on the ground trying to crank off the oil filter. Has it had any issues? Nope. Only when you don't turn it hard enough then it leaks but that is common with the Powerstroke in 7.3L.
Old 07-29-2016, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Purple92
To the OP - alkim's early answer is still the best - do an oil & filter change - drive the car somewhere around 5,000 mi, drain the oil - but after about a quart drains out - get a sample, and send it off for a real oil analysis. That will provide a fact based answer about the oil's ability to keep lubricating. Let that be your guide.
I really don't understand why people are so deathly afraid of having testing done for injectors, oil, etc, etc and would rather speculate, throw parts and spend all kinds of time on guessing and hoping.
Old 07-31-2016, 09:42 PM
  #30  
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I run M1 Full-Syn High Mileage 10W-30. I change the oil once per year, usually in spring when i get it out of storage. I dont worry about the drain interval, since i only put about 1k on the car per year. The HM has more zinc and phosporus, which is better for our older cars. And i only use AC filters.
Old 07-31-2016, 09:46 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by MikeT 90 C4sixer
The HM has more zinc and phosporus, which is better for our older cars.
For which cars? IIRC it was supposed to be better for flat tappet cams if anything.
Old 07-31-2016, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
For which cars? IIRC it was supposed to be better for flat tappet cams if anything.
What is IIRC?
Old 07-31-2016, 10:02 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by MikeT 90 C4sixer
What is IIRC?
If I Recall Correctly
Old 07-31-2016, 10:07 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by aklim
If I Recall Correctly
OK, i got it now. I thought that was another poster!
Old 10-20-2019, 08:49 PM
  #35  
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No less than once a year and no less than 5k miles. A GM filter or Wix, Castrol full synth SN+ 5w/30. I think I’ll be ok with this ritual

Last edited by new 2 me; 10-20-2019 at 08:51 PM.
Old 10-20-2019, 10:42 PM
  #36  
Mikey Morris
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Amsoil and WIX filter in my experience for what we do at work is the best you can do. The comparison tests on YouTube seem to duplicate my tests
Old 10-21-2019, 12:36 AM
  #37  
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Wait, hold up a minute. Are you guys saying one needs to have an oil change? When did this start?

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Old 10-21-2019, 12:53 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by ghoastrider1
Wait, hold up a minute. Are you guys saying one needs to have an oil change? When did this start?
July of 2016
Old 10-21-2019, 01:48 PM
  #39  
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Mfrs tell you to go forever in between changes so they can sell you a new one when yours pukes.
Whats cheaper an engine or some oil?
Old 10-21-2019, 08:56 PM
  #40  
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To me, the best indicator on when to change the oil is before it gets too dirty. A quick look on the dipstick is all it takes!!!


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