L98 distributor removal *sigh*
#1
Heel & Toe
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Location: Warsaw Indiana
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L98 distributor removal *sigh*
So I have a major electrical short, thanks to a little rodent that though the wires directly above my transmission and behind the engine looked tasty. I can't access them by going under the car. The only route is to access them by removing the distributor- and I mean the whole thing, not the cap and rotor. I've never done this before and don't want to mess it up, but I'd rather save myself the time and money from taking it to a shop.
How does one remove the distributor? Taking the cap and rotor off is simple, but what about the rest of it? Do I have to take other things apart to remove the distributor? The only time I've seen it removed was when an L98 gets an overhaul and the intake, valve covers, and several other components are removed.
Please help.
How does one remove the distributor? Taking the cap and rotor off is simple, but what about the rest of it? Do I have to take other things apart to remove the distributor? The only time I've seen it removed was when an L98 gets an overhaul and the intake, valve covers, and several other components are removed.
Please help.
#4
Burning Brakes
piece of cake
Just remove the cap and the wiring harness plugs. Then mark the position of the rotor relative to the base. Then unbolt the hold down and lift the distributor out (while turning the rotor slightly ccw). Don't turn the engine while the distributor is out, and you can drop it back in in the same position when you're done. If you'll need to turn the engine while the distributor is out, rotate the engine until the rotor is pointing at the #1 cyl terminal first and mark it there.
#5
Heel & Toe
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Hopefully one of the more experienced guys chimes in here, but until then, YouTube has helped me quite a bit with cars.
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...ibutor+removal
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...ibutor+removal
#6
Burning Brakes
No, it's at the base of the distributor where it meets the intake manifold. You'll see it there holding a clamp down that sort of straddles the distributor.
#8
Melting Slicks
on the Passenger side of the car under the Distributor. there is a bolt and Fork shaped clamp going into the intake loosen and slide the fork back out of the way, a Distributor wrench makes the job much Easier
#9
Drifting
This picture with distributer out. The little bolt hole next to the distributor opening is the one you have to take out. Can't remember if it's 9/16 or 1/2 inch
Take pictures of where the wires connect before you remove it
Take pictures of where the wires connect before you remove it
Last edited by mlm0; 07-30-2016 at 05:53 PM.
#10
Melting Slicks
https://www.bing.com/images/search?q...3o0&ajaxhist=0
You can see it just under the Arrow (internet stock photo)
Last edited by s carter; 07-30-2016 at 05:54 PM. Reason: changed photo
#14
Pro
In addition to marking the rotors position on the base I would also mark the position of the base to the intake to help insure both are in the same position on reassembly. You can also take pics as each piece is removed to help position the parts when you put it back together.
Gary
Gary
#15
let me add my 2-cents, FWIW - when removing the distributor, assuming everything electrical is disconnected along with the cap, make a mental note of how the distributor is positioned, and where the rotor is pointing - photos, ink marks or what ever you need. slowly-slowly-slowly lift the distributor - straight up and don't turn or pivot anything. as you lift the distributor, you will see the rotor, rotate CCW. it will continue for approximately 30° and stop - mental note again. remove the distributor.
for installation, set the distributor in place - position the rotor to that 30°, mental note position and slowly drop the distributor. as the gears engage, the rotor will rotate CW, and with a little "wiggle-giggle" fully engage with the oil pump shaft. the rotor should locate itself exactly to the original, mental note position. the four (4) distributor cap mounting screws should be somewhat squarely positioned (perpendicular and parallel), to the CL of the engine. distributor clamp and bolt, reconnect the electrics, plug wires in proper firing order, and set the timing, and you're off to the races -
for installation, set the distributor in place - position the rotor to that 30°, mental note position and slowly drop the distributor. as the gears engage, the rotor will rotate CW, and with a little "wiggle-giggle" fully engage with the oil pump shaft. the rotor should locate itself exactly to the original, mental note position. the four (4) distributor cap mounting screws should be somewhat squarely positioned (perpendicular and parallel), to the CL of the engine. distributor clamp and bolt, reconnect the electrics, plug wires in proper firing order, and set the timing, and you're off to the races -
Last edited by Joe C; 08-01-2016 at 04:52 AM.
#16
Race Director
Just a suggestion. Before I remove the distributor, I like to pit the engine to tp dead center. The rotor will be either pointing toward #1 or #6 on the cap, it doesn't matter. I sight along the rotor and mark a spot on the firewall. Then mark the distributor in relation to the intake manifold. Just in case things get messy, you can always return to this position.
Last edited by 383vett; 07-31-2016 at 12:42 PM.