When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have read my Haynes and tech tips. Will be replacing my left rear hub and bearing on my 94 LT1. Does anyone have some tips for removal and installation?
Re: Getting ready to replace hub and bearing (Richard G)
When you get the wheel off and the three torx bolts somewhat exposed, spray'em good with some liquid wrench or PB Blaster, or something like that, and let it soak in for a while (hour or so, overnight if possible) If you can get the car jacked up higher is better, since you'll probably need a good sized drive or breaker bar to loosen the bolts and the handle will be down toward the floor some of the time due to obstacles in the rear suspension, so you need some clearance for it. For install, I think you are supposed to use some anti-seizing grease to coat the splines with.
Re: Getting ready to replace hub and bearing (tdock)
I don't remember the size but you need a bigass socket. Cheapest I found was maybe $15. Found an ENTIRE 3/4 drive metric socket set on sale at Harbour Freight for $33. Big ratchet , breaker bar, extensions, 15 or 20 sockets. Cheap made in China stuff but well worth it.
Also, one of my torx bolts was so tight I had to get my 1/2 drive air impact wrench in there. Tight but doable.
Harold
Sorry scorp but you need a 36mm socket - not a 26mm.
Be carefull, it is very easy to strip those torx's back there as it is very cramped and there might be dirt which makes it even easier to fail.
I took the whole rear spindle or whatever it is out and opened the torx's on a bench. It was way easier than taking a risk of destroying the torx heads. Added bonus was that when I opened the half shaft U-joint bolts I found out that one of my U-joints was busted and they are easy to replace when the spindle and hub are out of the way. :D
Re: Getting ready to replace hub and bearing (Richard G)
get some extra torx bits ....... I broke one and it was Sunday so I couldn't get in touch with my Snap-on man......... wound up going to Advance and getting a couple cheap ones.......they twisted but didn't break....... the Snap-on ones are brittle and break easily :seeya
Re: Getting ready to replace hub and bearing (vettmech)
I got my torx 55 at Advance. They held up well. I was unable to properley torque hub and bearing assembley. Will have to take corvette to a local lift.
Good lookin corvette you have there, I like the scenery.
Re: Getting ready to replace hub and bearing (Richard G)
I torqued mine in the driveway to the proper torque. If I remember the 36mm is 164 ftlb and the torx 55 which were a pain to torque were 66 ftlbs. Not much room to move a torque wrench behind the hub area. Make sure you coat your splines with some good anti-seize, that is why I took mine apart it was making a popping noise from the rear. Good luck.
:seeya
Re: Getting ready to replace hub and bearing (GS487)
Able to torque spindle nut to 164 ft. lbs. Could not get torx 55 to specs, just not enough room to rotate wrench. I put antiseeze on spindle nut before install. I hope front hub and bearing will be easier. Thanks for info. Found these hub and bearings bad when I had 4 wheel alignment done..
Re: Getting ready to replace hub and bearing (Richard G)
I hope you were able to get the Torx bolts close to 66! Don't want them to fail...
The fronts are a piece of cake compared to rear. There is a hint on buying a 94 Firebired wheel bearing/hub for much cheaper. I did both of my fronts with these-work great.
Also front is only four bolt that are easy to get to after removing the brakes.