When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
you can google oem L98 corvette c4 to see an example.
i have a thread where i painted my valve covers with high heat enamel and all the prep work that went into it. its not a 2 hour job! maybe if you have a sand blaster it would be.
be sure to bake all the old oil out of them or the fresh paint which looks great will blister like hell as the oil gasifies under the fresh layer of paint. search my name with valve cover blister and u will find the thread.
From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
Ecklers used to have a rattle can paint called Stainless Steel Blast. It reportedly contained SSdust that layed down a very nice coat of what looked like clean bare aluminum. No longer stocked and I used up the last I had on the intake/runners/VC and few other engine brackets.
Never did any serious prep other than clean and wipe with lacquer thinner. Got that compartment hot a few times and didn't have any troubles with blisters or fade.
several "metallic" topcoats out there - everything from satin nickel, cast aluminum, SS blast, pewter silver, etc - all are close, but IMO, nothing "dead nuts-on the money." reference this thread - https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-blisters.html - and READ every post - a lot of good info, and a lot of bad info. i'm sure you can sort through it.
Thanks, I'm gonna take them to work and bead blast them, I like a silver color better than the gold.
- prior to any topcoat, use an etching primer. if you want to add a sandy-textured finish prior to color topcoat, I did use this on my last refinish - looks more like the factory texture -
FINE texture stone. it's been several months, 2K miles, many heat cycles - no issues. I did use a product from eastwood, but they quit carrying it, so I tried the krylon - seems to work. bought it at lowes or home depot - don't remember.
remember, prior to any paint, clean and degrease several times, and when you think you have it clean, clean and degrease it again -
on the l98's at least i think they called it "magnesium". which for me anyway, is confusing because im not sure if they were made with magnesium metal, then painted with a "magnesium" colured paint. or made with some pot metal alloy then painted with magnesium coloured paint!
Originally Posted by 92ragtop
Here are shots of my 1992 valve covers:
Definitely not gold.
on the l98's at least i think they called it "magnesium". which for me anyway, is confusing because im not sure if they were made with magnesium metal, then painted with a "magnesium" colured paint. or made with some pot metal alloy then painted with magnesium coloured paint!
WARNING.. do not use the acid for cleaning bricks to clean those MAG. covers. (its something like metric acid). A fire will result(or worse). Ask any concrete finisher or brick layer. Some concrete finishing tools are made of mag., only takes once to learn.
Last edited by ghoastrider1; Aug 8, 2016 at 08:41 PM.
WARNING.. do not use the acid for cleaning bricks to clean those MAG. covers. (its something like metric acid). A fire will result(or worse). Ask any concrete finisher or brick layer. Some concrete finishing tools are made of mag., only takes once to learn.