I'm posting this because I couldn't find a EASY button. I searched for information on installing the balancer but was not satisfied with what I found. If this info is a repeat, I apologize.... I could not find this doing a search.

Make sure the crank snout and balancer have absolutely NO burrs. Otherwise, this backyard mechanic tool may fail. Mine went on extremely easy & smooth.

Problem: standard issue harmonic balancer tools are too long... they hit the steering rack & tubes.

Solution: 5 inch length of 7/16-20 threaded rod (hardened), (1) high strength steel 7/16-20 coupling nut, (1) standard grade 8 7/16-20 nut, (3) 7/16 ID x 1" OD hardened washers, the OEM balancer washer.

I purchased the hardened rod (90322A140), high strength steel coupling nut (90983A214) and the grade 8 standard nuts (90565A325) from McMaster. The 1"OD washers from Lowes. I cut 5" off the 1 ft piece of threaded rod and dressed the end to make the tool.
You can probably use non-hardened parts, but it increases the risk of snapping off the rod in the crank snout during assembly.

The distance from the crank gear to the end of the crank snout is 1-3/8". This is the distance the balancer must be pulled on, leaving 1" of the balancer ID hanging off the end of the crank snout. You know the balancer is all the way on when there is 1" remaining on the ID of the balancer that is not on the crank snout.

The threaded hole inside the snout is about 1-1/2" deep, but is typically not threaded all the way to the bottom. To avoid the rod getting jammed in the snout, use a nut & washer to set the depth of engagement to only 1". Do not tighten the nut/washer against the snout. Just screw the assembly in until the nut/washer touches the snout.

Place the balancer on the tool behind the large OEM balancer washer and ease the entire assembly down past the steering rack while guiding the rod into the snout. Pre set the balancer on the snout, engaging the woodruff key. back off the coupling nut to gain access to the rod to screw the rod into the snout until the nut/washer touch the face of the snout.

Use a wrench (coupling nut was 3/4") to slowly press the balancer onto the snout. Usually, when the balancer is bottomed, the crank will begin to turn. If the crank turns before there is the 1" measurement, there is probably a burr somewhere or the woodruff key is messed up.

Before you start:
Oil the seal before install, the balancer seal face and all but 1/4" of the snout end for a sealer to be effective. I wiped off the last 1/4" of the snout with lacquer thinner. The sealer can be installed in a 1/4" bead on the oil-less inside ID of the balancer, 1-3/8" from the inner face of the balancer. This is to prevent oil seepage past the snout OD. Not necessary, but a little insurance.

Oil the entire tool with a light coat of oil to counteract friction. The two washers between the coupling nut and the OEM balancer washer act as cheap bearings when oiled.

I don't remember which of my 3 different balancer remover tools I used or I would post that info as well. Sorry.

 

add to the sticky with other tips n tricks hows too's!!

 

Update: How I removed the balancer without messing with the rack or jacking the engine up:

Here is the tool I used to remove the balancer without messing with the rack & pinion/lines or jacking the engine up:

The 3 lobe harmonic balancer on the right is an OTC #518. The crank protector/spacer to the left/below of it is OTC #518-5. The 3/8-24 x 1-1/2UHL bolts and 3/8” ID x 1“ OD washers are hardware store items…. Probably ACE Hardware. Next to the spacer is the long center bolt (5-1/2”) that came with the OTC #518 puller. This bolt is too long to fit between the rack & pinion and the crank snout. To the left of the 3 bolts & washers is a power steering pulley remover set that I cannot identify. However, it is a very common set found at auto parts stores. The bolt directly to the left of the 3 bolts is the center bolt for the power steering puller set. It is 3-1/16” long and fits easily between the crank snout and the rack when the #518-5 (1” wide) crank snout protector is in place. The thread is 5/8-18.