Crankshaft position sensor on '96 CE LT1
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 105
Likes: 2
From: Lecanto Florida
Crankshaft position sensor on '96 CE LT1
I’m planning to replace the crankshaft position sensor in my high mileage 1996 Collector Edition LT1. The car is up on jack stands and I have looked at the location of the switch from underneath the car. The access to the CPS is SO tight I can only touch the part with one finger. The one screw that holds it in should come out easy enough using a long 7mm end wrench, plus the part should be easy enough to slide out. I think I should be able to remove the electric plug by reaching in from above on the radiator side.
But, I don’t see how I can install the new part and get the screw back in. The FSM is VERY vague about this entire procedure. And, an advance search in this site doesn't bring up any relevant information.
Any helpful hints will be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Paul
But, I don’t see how I can install the new part and get the screw back in. The FSM is VERY vague about this entire procedure. And, an advance search in this site doesn't bring up any relevant information.
Any helpful hints will be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Paul
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,020
Likes: 51
From: Connecticut
You are on the correct path. I changed mine out when I did all of the other work last year on my LT4. Make sure you get the correct replacement part. There are two of them. One is longer than the other. I got the wrong part the first time and had to go back and get the correct one. Luckily I had the part in my hand the second time as the they tried to give me the wrong one again the second time.
Just put it back in like it came out. Patience is a virtue in this project as it is a frustrating place to be in. I laid under the car just behind the spring and was able to get the sensor and the bolt in that way.
Hope that helps.
Just put it back in like it came out. Patience is a virtue in this project as it is a frustrating place to be in. I laid under the car just behind the spring and was able to get the sensor and the bolt in that way.
Hope that helps.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 105
Likes: 2
From: Lecanto Florida
You are on the correct path. I changed mine out when I did all of the other work last year on my LT4. Make sure you get the correct replacement part. There are two of them. One is longer than the other. I got the wrong part the first time and had to go back and get the correct one. Luckily I had the part in my hand the second time as the they tried to give me the wrong one again the second time.
Just put it back in like it came out. Patience is a virtue in this project as it is a frustrating place to be in. I laid under the car just behind the spring and was able to get the sensor and the bolt in that way.
Hope that helps.
Just put it back in like it came out. Patience is a virtue in this project as it is a frustrating place to be in. I laid under the car just behind the spring and was able to get the sensor and the bolt in that way.
Hope that helps.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,482
Likes: 196
From: folsom california
overlooked, but important, is to lead the wire to the sensor as far apart from the high voltage spark plug wires as feasible; in my case I initially ran them through the plug wire harness, my bad 
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 105
Likes: 2
From: Lecanto Florida
I’m planning to replace the crankshaft position sensor in my high mileage 1996 Collector Edition LT1. The car is up on jack stands and I have looked at the location of the switch from underneath the car. The access to the CPS is SO tight I can only touch the part with one finger. The one screw that holds it in should come out easy enough using a long 7mm end wrench, plus the part should be easy enough to slide out. I think I should be able to remove the electric plug by reaching in from above on the radiator side.
But, I don’t see how I can install the new part and get the screw back in. The FSM is VERY vague about this entire procedure. And, an advance search in this site doesn't bring up any relevant information.
Any helpful hints will be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Paul
But, I don’t see how I can install the new part and get the screw back in. The FSM is VERY vague about this entire procedure. And, an advance search in this site doesn't bring up any relevant information.
Any helpful hints will be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Paul
As a follow up to this...I was finally able to remove the old part and install the new part...what a PITA! I removed the old part from under the car but found it easier to install the wiring plug from the top, I cut about 1/4" off a standard 12 pt. 8mm socket and used it with a small 1/4" breaker bar to loosen and tighten the one mounting bolt. There is not enough room for a ratchet wrench. I used a long 8 mm end wrench to unscrew after loose and then screw the bolt most of the way back in.
Beware...the $150 AC Delco part is the same part as the $55 Chinese plastic part you can get over the counter at your local auto parts store.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,020
Likes: 51
From: Connecticut
As a follow up to this...I was finally able to remove the old part and install the new part...what a PITA! I removed the old part from under the car but found it easier to install the wiring plug from the top, I cut about 1/4" off a standard 12 pt. 8mm socket and used it with a small 1/4" breaker bar to loosen and tighten the one mounting bolt. There is not enough room for a ratchet wrench. I used a long 8 mm end wrench to unscrew after loose and then screw the bolt most of the way back in.
Beware...the $150 AC Delco part is the same part as the $55 Chinese plastic part you can get over the counter at your local auto parts store.
Beware...the $150 AC Delco part is the same part as the $55 Chinese plastic part you can get over the counter at your local auto parts store.
$150 for that is highway robbery. I bought all of my parts when they were doing the "Bucket Sale". Made everything a lot cheaper.
Side note from your previous post: When I do searches I rarely use the CF search engine as it is not that great. I use google and point it back to the CF for exact detailed searches.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 15,344
Likes: 4,009
From: Texas
Why replace it? Did trouble-shooting tell you the sensor was bad? If so, it would set a code and illuminate the SES light.If there was no code, the sensor has ZERO to do with performance. It is solely for OBD II misfire detection.
Lastly...although too late for the OP...the easiest way to access the sensor is to remove the nut from each motor mount stud. Place a 2x12 under the oil pan or bellhousing and jack the engine ~2" You can then r&r the sensor in less than 5 minutes.
As an aside, if there is an oil leak from the sensor, the o-ring can be found at any local auto parts store or from the dealer.
Last edited by 96GS#007; Oct 19, 2016 at 08:44 PM.
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Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 697
Likes: 30
From: Kansas City, Kansas
Glad you got it figured out.
To the above comment, I would not recommend using a stamped tin oil pan as a lifting point, ever. Especially with the sump clearance being so critical. Not to say you cant lift the powertrain other ways; just be weary of coolant hoses pulling on the plastic radiator end tanks and tight wiring/vacuum lines.
Also, are you sure the crank sensor isn't responsible for igntion timing or injector timing? I know in other GM systems they are, but can't recall off the top of my head for the LTX engines in OBD2.
To the above comment, I would not recommend using a stamped tin oil pan as a lifting point, ever. Especially with the sump clearance being so critical. Not to say you cant lift the powertrain other ways; just be weary of coolant hoses pulling on the plastic radiator end tanks and tight wiring/vacuum lines.
Also, are you sure the crank sensor isn't responsible for igntion timing or injector timing? I know in other GM systems they are, but can't recall off the top of my head for the LTX engines in OBD2.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 15,344
Likes: 4,009
From: Texas
Glad you got it figured out.
To the above comment, I would not recommend using a stamped tin oil pan as a lifting point, ever. Especially with the sump clearance being so critical. Not to say you cant lift the powertrain other ways; just be weary of coolant hoses pulling on the plastic radiator end tanks and tight wiring/vacuum lines.
Also, are you sure the crank sensor isn't responsible for igntion timing or injector timing? I know in other GM systems they are, but can't recall off the top of my head for the LTX engines in OBD2.
To the above comment, I would not recommend using a stamped tin oil pan as a lifting point, ever. Especially with the sump clearance being so critical. Not to say you cant lift the powertrain other ways; just be weary of coolant hoses pulling on the plastic radiator end tanks and tight wiring/vacuum lines.
Also, are you sure the crank sensor isn't responsible for igntion timing or injector timing? I know in other GM systems they are, but can't recall off the top of my head for the LTX engines in OBD2.
As for the oil pan...thousands of people have been doing exactly what I described for years on Gen 1 and 2 SBCs. The key is spreading the load as I stated. Never ever lift with just the jack. Lifting the engine a couple inches is very common on the later C4s.
Last edited by 96GS#007; Oct 20, 2016 at 07:38 AM.
1st Gear
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
I used to tune these cars. On the '96 it is only there for OBD II misfire detection.
As for the oil pan...thousands of people have been doing exactly what I described for years on Gen 1 and 2 SBCs. The key is spreading the load as I stated. Never ever lift with just the jack. Lifting the engine a couple inches is very common on the later C4s.
As for the oil pan...thousands of people have been doing exactly what I described for years on Gen 1 and 2 SBCs. The key is spreading the load as I stated. Never ever lift with just the jack. Lifting the engine a couple inches is very common on the later C4s.