Difference in early fuel rails?
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I don't see SPO numbering differences for the years you mentioned. You determined "different number" how? Source for your information?
Last edited by WVZR-1; Oct 7, 2016 at 06:20 AM.
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Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Lake Butler North Florida
Hate to say, not even sure what an SPO number is and Didnt realize asking this was such a question of my corvette knowledge. Somewhre yesterdy I saw a website which listed the different rails which came in on diff yrs and even which came in F bodys and Vettes. I only ask before I fork out a few hundred on one and come up with something that doesnt work correctly or is incorrect. I understand mine has a 9th injector inlet, and later ones after 88 dont, Just wanted to be sure that was the only difference and not that there were design differences between yrs that both used the injector.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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Hate to say, not even sure what an SPO number is and Didnt realize asking this was such a question of my corvette knowledge. Somewhre yesterdy I saw a website which listed the different rails which came in on diff yrs and even which came in F bodys and Vettes. I only ask before I fork out a few hundred on one and come up with something that doesnt work correctly or is incorrect. I understand mine has a 9th injector inlet, and later ones after 88 dont, Just wanted to be sure that was the only difference and not that there were design differences between yrs that both used the injector.
There's lefts and there are rights, there's F-body and Corvette - what side do you need? Why do you believe you need a fuel rail? I expect you're maybe seeing sets being sold? You might maybe link to what you're looking at.
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Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Lake Butler North Florida
diff in rails
I need the vette inlet rail. It is somehow blocked. I am sure it is something I left like :the piece of blue paper towel blockin the inlet I used tape over the injector holes, but didnt want it to get clogged while I was waiting on parts. what usully happens which is the local dirt dauber bugs building a nest in it and blocking it while it was apart. Have a couple lengths of hose that I am going to replace and every one of them they have built their mud houses in already and its only been a few days. I m goin to go use my friends compressor and hopefully blow it out he has higher psi than I do on my compressor
Last edited by C486Bill; Oct 7, 2016 at 07:55 AM.
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How have you determined it's restricted?
Fill with solvent/alcohol and let soak maybe before the blowing. I don't have one to look at but if there were no other issues I'd maybe consider drilling/tapping the rear of the rail similar to how the cold start is on the left and create you own entry to clean it. I'd think that very doable. I also think you should be able to pressurize the rail and confirm operation before installing on the car.
I'm assuming you've separated the rails, regulator etc to reseal. Correct?
Fill with solvent/alcohol and let soak maybe before the blowing. I don't have one to look at but if there were no other issues I'd maybe consider drilling/tapping the rear of the rail similar to how the cold start is on the left and create you own entry to clean it. I'd think that very doable. I also think you should be able to pressurize the rail and confirm operation before installing on the car.
I'm assuming you've separated the rails, regulator etc to reseal. Correct?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 74
Likes: 1
From: Lake Butler North Florida
How have you determined it's restricted?
Fill with solvent/alcohol and let soak maybe before the blowing. I don't have one to look at but if there were no other issues I'd maybe consider drilling/tapping the rear of the rail similar to how the cold start is on the left and create you own entry to clean it. I'd think that very doable. I also think you should be able to pressurize the rail and confirm operation before installing on the car.
I'm assuming you've separated the rails, regulator etc to reseal. Correct?
Fill with solvent/alcohol and let soak maybe before the blowing. I don't have one to look at but if there were no other issues I'd maybe consider drilling/tapping the rear of the rail similar to how the cold start is on the left and create you own entry to clean it. I'd think that very doable. I also think you should be able to pressurize the rail and confirm operation before installing on the car.
I'm assuming you've separated the rails, regulator etc to reseal. Correct?
I installed it already, had no pressure at schrader valve, did the fuel pressure pump check as per FSM, whre it states to remove hose at pump I cnnected a length of hose and ran to a pint bottle, turned key and it filled half way before the relay clickd off. Then I jujmped the G term on the test connector under dash for 15 sec as per FSM and it filled bottle. so fp is good itself. went back to the engine cracked the inlet side and turned key, fuel sprayed out so I have prssure to the rail. No fuel getting to the schrader valve at all. took return line completely loose turned key on no fuel at all. Then I took rail off took inj out of rail and cant blow thru inlet of rail.
