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Well, Ive had my 92 for two weeks and have already started making changes. Got the new MSD Distributor, Plug Wires, 6AL, Electric water pump, CAGS, Plugs etc.
I was looking on Jegs for roller rockers. I've gotten pretty use to using Comp Cams roller rockers on my race cars etc. But self aligning is different. Quick glance on Jegs and I didnt find comps version.
The self aligning rockers are new to me, never messed with a set before. With the brain trust out there, I thought you guys could point me in the right direction on which specific roller rockers to order.
Thanks to tpi 421 and Tom400CFI, I have pretty much settled on going the 409 route. Course, probably going to wait till the snow flies to pull it that far apart. Then again, you never know. But certainly, it will either wind up becoming the 409 or 396. So what ever rockers I go with, I want to get good ones.
You're going to want to convert to guideplates with a build anyhow. The only bitch about trying it now is that some rockers don't have the clearance near the taper of the stud without having the rocker stud boss machined down the thickness of the guideplate.
Is it recommended to run stock springs if you go 1.6 ratio?......
GMPP lists #19210728 with 1.5 ratio and #19210729 with 1.6 ratio and both fit a 3/8" stud. If you want to use 7/16" stud you have to shop further.
Convert your heads to guide plates and you can select from all the sbc rocker arms available.
Originally Posted by C409
..... Try looking at Comp's Catalog ... Jegs catalog just isn't big enough to contain every part available , they tend to list best sellers .....
Thanks. Did you a see on the ad is stats they are only good to 575 lift. Interesting. Bout the same cost as the pro mags I put on my 496 if memory serves.
I had heard about ones that have trouble clearing the posts in the valve covers. Do you know if these clear?
You're going to want to convert to guideplates with a build anyhow. The only bitch about trying it now is that some rockers don't have the clearance near the taper of the stud without having the rocker stud boss machined down the thickness of the guideplate.
Is it recommended to run stock springs if you go 1.6 ratio?......
That is the catch really. When I pull the motor to go thru it this winter, do I stick with the stock heads and get them worked or do I buy a set of AFRs or ??
Course if I do that, then the self aligning ones are going to need to be replaced again.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
If you have the funds then it's a no-brainer to go with the AFR heads. Careful though as the 195cc runner AFR heads use the LT4 intake IIRC. With AFR heads you get larger valves and thicker decks. I believe the AFR heads are guide plate out of the box. Go for 7/16" studs then also.
Not to mention getting Narrow Body rockers so you can get your valve covers on without gutting them. I've got a set of rockers in my tool shed because I forgot about that.......
I have some Stainless Crower 1.6 3/8 stud for sale .$ 225.00 plus shipping . They have 6 hours on them on a stock L98 . you will need guideplates with these .retail is around 400
If you have the funds then it's a no-brainer to go with the AFR heads. Careful though as the 195cc runner AFR heads use the LT4 intake IIRC. With AFR heads you get larger valves and thicker decks. I believe the AFR heads are guide plate out of the box. Go for 7/16" studs then also.
I took a look at those. I was also looking at the edlebrock air gap lt1 intake. Maybe this is common knowledge and I am in the dark, but does the edlebrock intake have any fitment issues with the AFR lt4?
Originally Posted by drcook
If you have the funds and 430 HP is enough, Summit sells an all inclusive kit that is put together specifically for the LT1
Nice find. I didnt see that. Pretty cheap really. I like how you said "if" 430 hp is enough. That is pretty much where I am having a hard time drawing the line. I have to keep reminding myself I have a drag car. I'll freely admit, I am a novice with the Lt1. Big blocks, no problem. But the lt1 is a different beast.
Two of the last 3 days I have almost hit add to cart on either the 396 or 383 kit. Then I wonder about what you said, if thats enough. Anyone on here try the summit kit?
Jegs 1.5 pushrods and lifters. $150.00. chevy 350.
Damn, thats a good price.
Originally Posted by cadmaniac
Not to mention getting Narrow Body rockers so you can get your valve covers on without gutting them. I've got a set of rockers in my tool shed because I forgot about that.......
I've wondered about that. Are there any brands that clear? I was looking at a set of fab valve covers from Jegs. (or at least the sell them) The inside looks like there is some clearance, but its hard to tell. The valve covers them selves are taller, I'll have to fab up a better mount for the alt bracket to clear them. But before I pulled the trigger, wasnt sure they cleared the rocker arms. Its always something.
Originally Posted by Rob31
I have some Stainless Crower 1.6 3/8 stud for sale .$ 225.00 plus shipping . They have 6 hours on them on a stock L98 . you will need guideplates with these .retail is around 400
I'll PM you about these. Im always a bigger is better when it comes to strenght. But not sure with the smalish lifts out there on these cams that I need 7/16. Course its all relative i guess. Whos to say that a mid 500 lift isnt enough to brake a 3/8? My 496 has a 750 lift straight across with the 7/16 and comp pro mags on it. Never broke one yet.
Looks like most of the head configurations out there for the lt1 come with the 3/8. That good enough? Seems to me it would be.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Originally Posted by tpi1986
I took a look at those. I was also looking at the edlebrock air gap lt1 intake. Maybe this is common knowledge and I am in the dark, but does the edlebrock intake have any fitment issues with the AFR lt4?
The Edelbrock LT4 intake is made for the LT4 runners. It's just fairly expensive - $500. Stock intakes still show up for sale often enough for less money.
The Edelbrock LT4 intake is made for the LT4 runners. It's just fairly expensive - $500. Stock intakes still show up for sale often enough for less money.
Ok. Just to be clear, if I buy the AFR heads, do I need the LT4 factory intake or will the Edelbrock lt4 work. Thanks
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Originally Posted by tpi1986
Ok. Just to be clear, if I buy the AFR heads, do I need the LT4 factory intake or will the Edelbrock lt4 work. Thanks
I don't know why you don't just look on the AFR w/s to verify yourself? AFR sells a 195cc head #1031 for the LT1 and uses the LT1 intake. Then the #1039 head in 195cc and larger runner sizes all use the LT4 intake - from their w/s: .Suggested Manifold GM LT4 or Edelbrock LT4.
You should always double check information that can cost you like that and it was very simple to find it on AFR's w/s. And before a $2500 purchase I wouldn't hesitate to call AFR tech/support first.
I don't know why you don't just look on the AFR w/s to verify yourself? AFR sells a 195cc head #1031 for the LT1 and uses the LT1 intake. Then the #1039 head in 195cc and larger runner sizes all use the LT4 intake - from their w/s: .Suggested Manifold GM LT4 or Edelbrock LT4.
You should always double check information that can cost you like that and it was very simple to find it on AFR's w/s. And before a $2500 purchase I wouldn't hesitate to call AFR tech/support first.
Wasn't trying to put you out with the question. I've bought plenty of parts that didn't quite fit or measure up as advertised. Thought asking a few forum members their experience was a much more reliable method.
I've never purchased from AFR, but ordered a set of Edlebrock heads with the vortec bolt pattern. The sent me an intake that their tech guy swore would fit. I guess he was half right, we could have made it work if we redrilled it. Which I wasn't interested in doing. It happens.
So believe me, I would much rather ask anyone who has actually tried what I am looking at, (if possible) than exclusively rely on a website or even a tech department.
Which reminds me of summits tech guy telling me that my "excessive" compression was closing the gap on my spark plugs instead of admitting that the plugs I had ordered were the wrong ones. Which was my fault btw.