well the time has come to finally get to the strokin. The marriage is done, no more honeymoon, rings etc to buy, at least for now!! here's what i have and need some of your input to get this sucker right. I have a callies 3.875 (396) crank, am looking to get lunati pro mod rods, probably 5.875 rods for longevity, etc, srp/je or lunati piston, am looking to run around 11.5-12/1 compression, lt4 intake, am going to buy afr 220 heads, probably 210/1.6 valves, (anyone have any for sale?), 36 lb injectors, exotic muscle long tube heades unl;ess someone has a set of drm's for sale, 4.10 gear, on a 6 speed car with b/b exhaust on it. i am looking to go solid roller, and am looking to run deep 11's , high 10's if possible. will street drive it, but dont mind that. Opem as to some cam selections, head vendors, etc. i know some of you have been there , done that. open to your suggs. from bottom end on up. thanks for any and all help. joe.

 

what's up with this, 29 people looking and not a single opinion? hello out there.

 

The only thing I would suggest you take a look at is your valve choices. The guys at Total Engine Airflow have done some testing with valves over 2.00 / 1.56 on LT1 motors and have found that it's really quite pointless. They have found that it kills velocity which in turn kills low end torque with very little to no gain on the upper end.

One of my friends works at TEA and is building a 396. He can do all the labor and everything for free, just the cost of valves, and he's sticking with his 2.00 / 1.56's. Just might want to do a little research there.

 

True if you are sticking with stock LT1 castings, but going to an AFR 210 or 220 you will not have the same problem maxing out the port.

I am running a Callies 3.875" crank and use the Oliver billet rods. They do not require as much machine work to the block as some other rods and are strong enough to take some serious punishment. My rods are 5.85". I am running true J&E pistons for my nitrous use. I was running some SRP, but I melted them during an "incident". I am also running right at 11:1 compression, but was running 11.5:1 without any issues. The rest of your shopping list looks fine.

I would really consider sticking with a hydraulic roller if you plan to do a lot of street driving though (> 2-3K /year). Pick your cam after you know what heads you will get and have the heads you actually get flowed to determine what cam is best. Do not go off of salesman numbers and expect the heads to flow what they advertise. AFR is notorious for exagerated numbers. They are still a good choice in heads though. If I had the money to do it, I would get a bare cast 210 head and send it to one of the porters and have them hand port the castings and assemble them with some good parts (Ferrea valves, Comp springs, bronze guides, etc). The parts that AFR uses are marginal from what I have heard.

For a pretty complete parts list of what I am currently using, check out my website, or look at my member info on the Xtreme site.

 

Heard the same things about the AFR components. The Heads are a great design. Get blanks and have your own head guy port, polish, and add all your own parts for killer heads. I'd stick to 11:1 compression if you want to stay streetable. Higher than that and you are starting to push the safety envelope. Have the same guy also set up your intake and a 58mm throttlebody so they all fit and match. What kind of RPM are you looking to redline at?
:cheers:


[Modified by 92TripleBlack, 11:54 AM 9/16/2002]

 

I agree that your parts list looks good.

I recently spoke to Osh at More Performance and they had just completed a stroker (383 I think) with AFR heads and Solid roller that put out 600+ HP on their engine dyno. He's been bugging me to come down for a "tune-up". I believe he also used a sheet metal intake manifold.

I ended up with 531HP with LT4 castings and hydraulic roller camshaft. The rest of the parts list looks just like yours.

 

If they used a sheet metal intake, then they probably used the AFR 215 Raised runner heads. Definately a quick ticket to making serious power. Almost like using 18 degree heads on the LT1/4 motors. :D

Chris

 

i plan on using the raised runner lt4 design heads. was looking at the 220's due to the fact that phils lt401 and randy hammons in memphis have had good luck with theirs, but there have been maxed ported flowing about 310. i do want to go the bare route as you guys have mentioned. as for the solid roller, i have simply been told that that is where the real power comes in to play. im looking at turning with stock electronics around 7-7200. will most likely run the new style shaft rocklers also. again, i simply want to run deep! 11's to a 10.9 and be able to drive with the cruise and air. as for vendors, on my 95 admiral, more had helped out on a few tyhings and ive always thought they were great to deal with. randy and a buddy with a 99 whos just completed a solid roller head and cam pkg on it got their heads and cam from agostino. nice looking heads, but the guy seem to drag his feet on following through with delivery, etc. nate, is there really a big difference is the srp's /je? what do you know about the lunati. not married to them, its just that hypertech owes me a few favors and mark heffington, the owner, is going to hook me up since he has a credit and wants to use it before holley goes bust! thanks again for all of your help out there, joe.

 

Joe,

When I was getting my J&E pistons made, they got the slugs from Lunati so they are probably pretty comparable in the parts quality. Not sure on the similarities in piston design though.

Chris

 

anybody have any cam suggestions for this set up?

 

whats up, nobody with a cam recommendion?

 

I tried two cams when I ran mine as a solid roller. One was a 240/250 with .615/.620 lift with 1.52 rockers and was on 114. It had good response and revved well. The other was a monster 256/264 cam with high .6 lifts and was on a 112. Drivability was not very good, but would pull till morning in the RPM band. Some of the drivability issues could probably have been dealt with in programming, but I never had the chance to get good data to log off of. Whatever you choose, make sure it matches the other parts. This is overwhelmingly important. Get a cam that matches your heads and you will be happy.

I am back using a hydraulic roller and making more power out of a smaller cam than I did with the 240/250 solid. I am much happier driving around town too.

Chris

 

good luck! :cheers:

 

how are you making more power with the smaller hydraulic cam. just doesnt seem right. i know phils lt401 is running a cammontion 244/244 cam , and has been running exc. times. what do you think.. also, any knowlege of the big boy cam ive seen on a couple of sites, like more, etc.

 

The cam is matched better to my heads than the solid rollers were. Plus my springs are better matched to my cam and lifters now. The point is : Get matched parts on the top end...springs, cam, heads, and lifters. If your heads don't flow a lot up top, then you are just wasting velocity by having higher lifts. With the smaller cam, I have better velocity in the ports which allows more air in the cylinder on each stroke. More air, more power. This is what I have found on the dyno. Sure, the solids were a lot of fun when they ran, but not worth the noise or hassle in my opinion.