C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

1986 check engine light

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Old Oct 16, 2016 | 06:33 PM
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Default 1986 check engine light

Check engine light on but won't pull any codes any ideas runs great while going but dies w hen come to stop
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Old Oct 17, 2016 | 03:48 AM
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Do a minimum idle adjustment:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1570563689

How are you pulling the codes? You should be shorting ALDL connector pins A & B with the key on, engine off, like so:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1574918379

http://corvettephotographs.com/c4vettes/codes.htm

What they mean (make sure you look at the correct ones for your year):

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1576116036

Last edited by Cliff Harris; Oct 19, 2016 at 02:31 AM. Reason: Corrected wording.
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Old Oct 17, 2016 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Cliff Harris
Not sure I would do that. It probably ran right from the factory so why are you adjusting it? IF it has build up which screws things up, maybe the best thing is to check fuel pressure and ignition timing first and then scan the codes and check the IAC counts. Just adjusting it right off is kinda masking a problem, IMO. I'd put the car on a scanner first and see what the codes are, whether the sensors are giving plausible values and whether there are air leaks or what before just adjusting.

That procedure will ASSUME that everything but the setting is spot on. IF so, yes. If not, you are adjusting to compensate for an air leak or blockage in the passages, bad fuel pressure, dirty or failing injectors, etc, etc. None of which get better in time

Last edited by aklim; Oct 17, 2016 at 08:41 AM.
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Old Oct 17, 2016 | 11:19 AM
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SES light on will not flash or only code is 12? Decel stalling did that start when SES stayed on? Any repairs prior? I would check no blown fuses, throttle body for carbon build up, ground wires at engine and plug wires are away from 4 wire distributor harness. Do you have FSM? there will be a chart SES light on and no codes
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Old Oct 18, 2016 | 03:29 AM
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Originally Posted by aklim
It probably ran right from the factory so why are you adjusting it?
The linkage wears and bends over time. He said it runs fine, just dies when stopping. That's the classic symptom indicating the need for a minimum idle adjustment. Of course we assume that everything is OK before doing this adjustment.
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Old Oct 18, 2016 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Cliff Harris
The linkage wears and bends over time. He said it runs fine, just dies when stopping. That's the classic symptom indicating the need for a minimum idle adjustment. Of course we assume that everything is OK before doing this adjustment.
Fair enough but wouldn't it be better to take apart the TB and clean it first before adjusting to compensate for any build up in the passages?
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Old Oct 18, 2016 | 07:07 PM
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Not wanting to get too far off topic. Checking and minor tweaking of minimum air rate is kinda like maintenance. As engine wears and maybe TB; min air rate (min idle speed) can fall out of spec. it just happens. Disassembling TB to clean carbon then make all necessary adjustment Would be overhauling a carburetor for a low idle without trying to just turn a screw. It's not very ethical but shops and techs can more money doing it that way. If I was a consumer I would rather pay .5 (FLH)related to min/air than 2.5 flh+ parts to recondition TB for same possible out come. Oh by the way if it doesn't fix it shop/tech rarely will eat it because it's part of the diagnostic process. Cliff Harris's suggestion is the correct place to start for decel stalling.
FLH= flat rate labor hours and are the basis for what a shop or tech charges for services. For those who don't know
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Old Oct 18, 2016 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevova
Not wanting to get too far off topic. Checking and minor tweaking of minimum air rate is kinda like maintenance. As engine wears and maybe TB; min air rate (min idle speed) can fall out of spec. it just happens. Disassembling TB to clean carbon then make all necessary adjustment Would be overhauling a carburetor for a low idle without trying to just turn a screw. It's not very ethical but shops and techs can more money doing it that way. If I was a consumer I would rather pay .5 (FLH)related to min/air than 2.5 flh+ parts to recondition TB for same possible out come. Oh by the way if it doesn't fix it shop/tech rarely will eat it because it's part of the diagnostic process. Cliff Harris's suggestion is the correct place to start for decel stalling.
FLH= flat rate labor hours and are the basis for what a shop or tech charges for services. For those who don't know
Actually, I would disagree. Raising idle by turning a screw without finding the underlying cause is like giving you pain meds just because you said "I have a pain" without trying to find the underlying cause. You wouldn't want your doctor to do that to you, would you? Yes, you are right, it is faster to throw a few oxycodone at you and not bother to really investigate and hope the pain goes away. Many times, you would be fine. However, whether it will always work that way is a different story and the one time it doesn't, well, I'd refer you to a friend whose doctor did that but apparently, the brain tumor got so large, it was inoperable and he's dead. It is a bad habit that I hoped died out with the arrival of EFI but apparently not. I do maintenance on my system every 3 years when I send the injectors for cleaning and testing and FYI, they DO have varnish build up as does the TB have other gunk. Yes, it costs more money since the TB needs new gaskets but IMO, it is a bad habit to cultivate that will hurt more in the long run.
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Old Oct 19, 2016 | 02:38 AM
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I suggest the minimum idle adjustment first to get things going in the right direction, followed by an analysis of any possible problems. Idle is the most sensitive time for problems, so that's where to do the investigation.
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