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Need some help... I was away on travel and apparently my Vette's alarm was going off in the parking lot for about 14 hours. Cops came and pulled the battery cable. Wouldn't have been a big deal if I didn't live in an apartment complex. Well now that all that fun is over and I'm 90% sure my entire complex wants to blow up the vette, I need to fix it.
I've seen some things about bypassing the vats with resistors and things of that nature, I was wondering if there was a common failure point or if it's better to just bypass it. I don't need an alarm on the car, so bypassing or getting rid of it all together are definitely options.
Thanks for the help!
Last edited by hockeyhead019; Oct 26, 2016 at 08:44 AM.
Reason: More accurate thread title now
Need some help... I was away on travel and apparently my Vette's alarm was going off in the parking lot for about 14 hours. Cops came and pulled the battery cable. Wouldn't have been a big deal if I didn't live in an apartment complex. Well now that all that fun is over and I'm 90% sure my entire complex wants to blow up the vette, I need to fix it.
I've seen some things about bypassing the vats with resistors and things of that nature, I was wondering if there was a common failure point or if it's better to just bypass it. I don't need an alarm on the car, so bypassing or getting rid of it all together are definitely options.
Thanks for the help!
VATS ≠ alarm going off.
You could disable/bypass VATS and still have an alarm. I'd check your door and lock switches.
It is not the vats. I would ajust the door switches. On my 94 I just pull the plungers out all the way and shut the door. And tun the key both ways fully.
Last edited by antfarmer2; Oct 25, 2016 at 10:54 PM.
Maybe the ALARM was actually doing the job!! Maybe!
If you set it then you understand I guess the ARMING and DISARMING procedures. I wouldn't think it coincidental. When you reconnected the battery did it sound again?
Do your door locks operate as expected? Does the SECURITY light flash as expected when you exit the car but haven't ARMED yet? If it doesn't then I'd think that "hints" maybe an ajar switch issue.
I'd think you just confirm correct operation and move on. I believe this is the accepted diagnostics for confirmation:
What to do if it fails DIAGNOSTICS - Do you have the FSM for the car?
Ok so after last nights initial panic, I settled down and read through my FSM. I get the arming and disarming sequence. I'll go through the checks after work today. There is definitely a possibility that the car just did it's job. One that I didn't even know it was doing because the LED on the dash never illuminates when I arm the system via the auto locks.
I'll proceed with diagnostic testing and look for any stuck door ajar switches. Sorry for the panic, mods you can feel free to remove this one.
To all who responded, thanks for clearing things up and basically telling me to pull my head out of my a$$ and read my FSM. Sometimes you need that haha cheers
SECURITY should be an INCANDESCENT through filter in the CLUSTER and not in the DIC - maybe lower left I believe
If you have an LED - where and maybe that hints an after-market package of some sort
The second part is what I'm now afraid of. I haven't seen a Security light ever flash when I lock my doors, via the power lock. As I understand it that is how it arms. You lock via power locks. It flashes, you close the doors and then it stays on.
Here's a picture of the dash with a small circle around the led that I was referring to.
You'll have to look close but the light (or what I assume is the light) is just forward of the three vents.
That is a sun load temperature sensor unless an LED has been put there to replace it.
thanks Jim.
Ok so scratch that LED theory, it was an assumption based on other cars I've been in.
Back to the issue that I've never seen the security lamp light up and yet had the alarm go off. Could be as simple as a burnt out bulb? Is there a diagnostic to check the function of all the bulbs behind the filters?
Ok so scratch that LED theory, it was an assumption based on other cars I've been in.
Back to the issue that I've never seen the security lamp light up and yet had the alarm go off. Could be as simple as a burnt out bulb? Is there a diagnostic to check the function of all the bulbs behind the filters?
I'd think it very easy to overlook the SECURITY light in the cluster if you weren't looking for it. Have you ever seen the CHANGE OIL? It's just below it I believe. Do the diagnostics, look left lower extreme of the cluster and I believe you'll find it. BULB out? It's certainly possible.
I'd think it very easy to overlook the SECURITY light in the cluster if you weren't looking for it. Have you ever seen the CHANGE OIL? It's just below it I believe. Do the diagnostics, look left lower extreme of the cluster and I believe you'll find it. BULB out? It's certainly possible.
Roger, I'll try that later today. Thanks for the help!
If you want to bypass the alarm just lock the doors with the manual door switch. And how did the cops pull the battery cable anyway, did they break in? (Don't dismiss a simple burned out bulb explanation).
My guess is that the cops broke in. I checked this morning and there isn't negative signs of forced entry on either side. So I just locked it and will do the testing and diagnostics later today/tonight.
Ok it's confirmed to be a wonky door ajar switch. I just pulled the power to the horns for now until I get it squared away. The security light is working and I've just never looked for it (oops). The system functioned as designed via the test listed earlier by WVZR-1 so that checked out.
I noticed that when I'm driving it the interior lights pop on when i hit a hard bump or the car twists a little while turning up hill. I'll have to get the driver side door ajar switch squared away. Also confirmed by the fact that when i opened the driver door it didn't turn off the radio like it usually does.