Clutch problems?
So I got it up on these blocks and got most of the exhaust undone before I called it a day. I'm sure it's comical to anybody else to see the car on blocks like this and believe me it is for me too but it works! Tomorrow I'm gonna work on getting the driveshaft out to check the u joints just to be sure and if those aren't it I guess my next step is removing the trans to check the clutch. This is the first corvette I've owned so I'm kinda learning as I go. By no means a professional

Good luck w/the trans drop.
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Last edited by Tom400CFI; Oct 30, 2016 at 11:36 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Last edited by cole198; Nov 7, 2016 at 09:36 AM.
But...now that you have the clutch out an it has all those miles, you find yourself at a crossroads. The question is what you will replace it with. I've just been through this myself. The problem is that all stock-style replacement parts are now based on Chinese replacement parts. The pressure plate castings and diaphragm springs are not good on these. And the throwout bearings they use are inferior, too. If you can find a NOS Valeo plate and INA bearing, I would go that route. Also, you really need to replace your pilot bearing and you should use a NOS fluted bronze oilite bearing. You may be able to get these from Jim at powertorquesystems.com. The disk you end up using probably depends on your usage. At Jim's suggestion, I went with a Centeforce Dual Friction disk, and so far I am pleased with it. But I have a lot more torque and power than stock, so for a stock LT4 a good fully organic disk might be a good option.
The SPEC kit comes with a throwout bearing. But again, it's Chinese and I suspect it was part of what led to the demise of my SPEC kit. I'm sure all the kits come with bearings. And again, all the OE-style, pull-type, high-performance clutch kits from SPEC, Centerforce, McLeod, etc are all based on the Chinese replacement pressure plates.
Another option is the RAM push-style conversion kit. It is a full conversion and you need to use the flywheel that comes with it. They make a single-disk version with an organic disk that is probably fine for your application. If I ever have to do a clutch job again, this is probably the route I will go (but with a beefier disk for my power level).
In the meantime, don't throw away that pressure plate! It might be possible to machine it, and you or someone else could use it again. In fact, if I were you I'd do that and keep it on a shelf somewhere in case the SPEC p/p doesn't work out so well. If you get it machined, you need to also machine the legs the same amount to preserve the distance between the legs and the friction surface. Jim at powertorquesystems.com can tell you all about it, but the measure you want to preserve is between 0.195-0.205". The thing that might prevent you from successfully machining it is the pitting, but it's hard to tell from the pics how deep or big they really are.
another thing I did before I tore it all apart was jack the rear of the car off the ground and take the tires off and put it in gear and listen for any noises and I didn't hear anything not even slightly coming from the rear end.. BUT when I put my foot on the brake and started to release the clutch I could hear the same popping/clicking sound clearly coming from the clutch
















I like the old school lift. Watching this thread to learn about clutch replacement and drive line issues.