rithsleeper

So I have a canton road racing pan. I know the dip stick isn't accurate because I've overfilled it in the past and it has blown out the back of the manifold rtv with spectacular cloudy results.

Now I'm breaking in the new engine and changed the oil for first time after about 2 hour run time. I put in about 6 quarts which brought the level about halfway up the dipstick full mark which is where I've had previous success. However now at idle even, it is belching out the oil dipstick tube...

The pan is such a huge pain to get to seal up and remove with the engine in the car I don't want to remove it. Any ideas how to see where the crank it vs the level of oil so it doesn't belch out?

I also run a quart oil cooler and the lines for it, in addition to a large filter. So just guesstimating is going to be tough.

billschroeder5842

It's your money, but I'd drain current oil and fill with 5 quarts.

If you aren't "belching" and your oil pressure is good, it say that you found your Full mark,

WVZR-1

OP - there's some very good reads regarding the fill, the stick and the Canton capacities. Maybe important to maybe post the part# of the dip stick (it will be on it), is this an L98 or an LT1? Do you know for a fact that the tube is factory to match the stick you're using?

What was the part # of the Canton pan? Canton seems to feel that their pan for the C4 is 7QT system capacity.

I'd have thought this being a "new build" - this issue(capacity) would have been solved way before the "break in run".

How is this cooler plumbed?

rithsleeper

block is one piece rear main. so same as later l98. The dip stick is stock as far as I know, but I don't know for sure. The number on the stick is 10108430.

Here are some pics. the tube has been bent a good bit taking it in and out over the years.

*I don't think just adding 5qts would be a good idea... would hate to loose pressure the first time around turn 4 at road atlanta on slicks.... This isn't a straight line car... Of course if 6 is too much, 5 might be just right. I'd rather be sure.

oil cooler is mounted on driver side gills. straight piped with some -6an steel braided tubing. So maybe 4ft to and fro and the cooler and the cooler doesn't drain when engine turns off but one of the lines does.

Hot Rod Roy

Can you figure out a way to connect a clear plastic tube to the drain plug outlet, so you can see the actual oil level in the plastic tube? Temporary only, obviously. Clear plastic tube isn't rated for high temp.

WVZR-1

Is it supposed to be a 7QT Canton pan and has all of the different bungs for accessories? Might be 3 in addition to the drain. If it has the side bung fill until it comes out of the bung, put in the bung and stick it. That should give you an idea of where in relationship to the windage tray that amount of oil gets you. How much puts the oil to the bung?

The stick is a C4 - is the Canton sandwich used for the cooler adapter or what?

You said "about six quarts" - Why did you have to guess?

rithsleeper

Hot rod Roy, can you elaborate on your idea? I'm not following how the clear tubing would allow me to see into the pan.

One of my friends pointed out I just put in pcv valves to a catch can but didn't put a vacuum on the catch can yet. I just have it open. I previously had breathers but they were allowing spray by them onto the valve covers a bit. Could I just have too much positive crank case pressure? I don't want to suck anything back into the engine and also mess up my tune inconsistently as this new crank case air enters the manifold... rather just let it vent. Maybe I need to eliminate the valves and just have a tube?

The oil pan does have other drain plugs one of which is on one of the expansion side tanks (on top, not side which may be an advantage).

Reason I guessed 6 quarts is I have been running the same mark on the dipstick for 2 years (old engine and new one ) with no problems. For some reason things are different now. Usually 6 quarts is about right for the fill after a drain. And yes, I am using the sandwich adapter in-between filter and block for the oil cooler.

I think the second drain plug might be my key, but hot rod roys idea sounds interesting. I'm just not picturing it.

antfarmer2

Just put a adapter on a clear tube put it in your drain plug and pull the hose up along the engine liquid seeks it's own level.

ddahlgren

You could just call Canton. They make a gauge to measure crank case pressure and a lot of race teams data log it to get an idea on engine health. If oil is coming out of the dipstick I would think the crank case pressure is very high. Most valve cover breathers are never baffled correctly, a piece of foam is useless you need mechanical baffles to help separate oil from air.

Hot Rod Roy

rithsleeper

Holy crap! That clear tube idea is f***ing genius! That is just what I need! And I'm not sure what I should change about the crank case pressure. I have a pcv valve from summit on both sides connectdd. By a tube, t'ed off to the catch can. Then the output on the can is just open to the air not connected to the manifold. But maybe I need to try. I just dont like the idea of air coming in behind the throttle body.

confab

This. I see them do it with fuel oil tanks all the time.

ddahlgren

It is the original level