When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Got engine started after top end cleanup. TPS is not set and timing is set to where it was before I tore it down. I know it needs adjusting. Timing can't be too far off. It is running rich. I ordered the TPS pin breakout "tool" but it hasn't arrived yet.
Only ONE cat (drivers side) is red hot, the other is normal temp. Likely cause for only ONE side to burn hot? It wasn't doing this before I tore it down so I'm hesitant to blame it on a clogged cat.
I have a late 86' (Aluminum heads). It might be an injector on the one side is partially clogged open, and thus dumping more fuel on the one side which would leave excess fuel vapor to burn in the cat and help cause the rich smell??? That is all I can think of off the top of my head.
I can't think of a reason the TPS would cause only one cat to glow. Usually it is a clogged cat (as you know).
Originally Posted by Tom454
Got engine started after top end cleanup. TPS is not set and timing is set to where it was before I tore it down. I know it needs adjusting. Timing can't be too far off. It is running rich. I ordered the TPS pin breakout "tool" but it hasn't arrived yet.
Only ONE cat (drivers side) is red hot, the other is normal temp. Likely cause for only ONE side to burn hot? It wasn't doing this before I tore it down so I'm hesitant to blame it on a clogged cat.
I had that happen on the car i had in highschool, mazda rx-7.
plugged cat, the car also burned oil by design. I'm sure that did not help cat converter life.
I went through cats just about yearly, loss of power and a glowing exhaust system.
I'm always a little fearful of a plugged cat after my parents lost a minivan due to fire and a plugged pre cat.
Pretty much they parked the car and about 20min later the car was in flames.
Op, you don't have to wait for the TPS jumper to check the tps voltage. Just use 3 1" wires with the insulation stripped in different positions to avoid shorting and connect your multimeter between a and c (if memory serves me right).
Op, you don't have to wait for the TPS jumper to check the tps voltage. Just use 3 1" wires with the insulation stripped in different positions to avoid shorting and connect your multimeter between a and c (if memory serves me right).
The gizmo made it real easy read the voltage. The TPS is bad.... ordered a new one.
I plugged in a scanner .... no codes. It won't even idle. Have to hold the throttle to keep it running. VooDoo.
Codes are set for outrageous values. So in the middle of the Sahara at the hottest time where it is 120 degrees, if the ECM sees 20 degrees it would not throw a code. The scanner sees what the ECM sees. You determine if the value is correct.
If the scanner does not give real time data it is just a glorified code reader and useless. You can replace that with a paper clip. When I bought mine on 2008 my second purchase was a scanner that gives real time data to make life much simpler. It answers a ton of questions in minutes rather than hours.
If the scanner does not give real time data it is just a glorified code reader and useless. You can replace that with a paper clip. When I bought mine on 2008 my second purchase was a scanner that gives real time data to make life much simpler. It answers a ton of questions in minutes rather than hours.
Kinda why I am thinking he got a paper clip in a fancy container as opposed to data feed.