When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I need to do the VC gasket replacement on my 89. I've seen people recommend the following, but it was for 88 and older vettes. Will this work on an 89?
fel-pro 1628 valve cover gaskets with Moroso 97020 studs, and some black permatex?
If not, what should I use for the best result?
At the same time, I'm upgrading the intake parts with ported and polished components, and would like to get new VCs, as the stock ones are roached. I tried to measure the height of the stock ones, and I think 2-3/4" tall VCs are the correct height. Can anyone confirm?
Last edited by darklordftt; Dec 8, 2016 at 09:44 PM.
I found some nice VCs on ebay from Eckler's that fit perfectly. A reviewer on their website posted pics of them installed, and they fit under the EGR pipe. What I found funny was that Eckler's sells them for about $20 cheaper on ebay, than on their site.
Cork falls apart and just sucks. It is like a 1 time use gasket.
I used the rubber fel-pro, I permitexed them only to the valve cover. You have to hold them in with something like a c-clamp with light pressure or they will just come out.
Once done, I have installed and removed those things over and over without ever having a leak or issue for years..... They are like magic. I got after market covers as well and did the same thing to them as well. Never had an issue. every other car I had always had a leak. weather it was a cork gasket, or sheet metal VC POS.
I don't know about a stud kit. with aftermarket heads I ground down my stock center bolts to fit. They were way too long.
I need to do the VC gasket replacement on my 89. I've seen people recommend the following, but it was for 88 and older vettes. Will this work on an 89?
fel-pro 1628 valve cover gaskets with Moroso 97020 studs, and some black permatex?
If not, what should I use for the best result?
At the same time, I'm upgrading the intake parts with ported and polished components, and would like to get new VCs, as the stock ones are roached. I tried to measure the height of the stock ones, and I think 2-3/4" tall VCs are the correct height. Can anyone confirm?
NO on the F-P 1628's (and moroso studs). that configuration is for older iron head, perimeter bolt, VC's. on my 90, I used Fel-Pro PermaDry Valve Cover Gaskets VS50088R with my stock VC's. they are blue silicone rubber, not needing any kind of sealant, just proper torque. it's coming up on 4 years now, over 10K miles, and not leaking a drop. I purchased mine from summit racing for about 15 and change. can't recommend anything for replacement VC's - always use stock. you could always refinish your originals.
NO on the F-P 1628's (and moroso studs). that configuration is for older iron head, perimeter bolt, VC's. on my 90, I used Fel-Pro PermaDry Valve Cover Gaskets VS50088R with my stock VC's. they are blue silicone rubber, not needing any kind of sealant, just proper torque. it's coming up on 4 years now, over 10K miles, and not leaking a drop. I purchased mine from summit racing for about 15 and change. can't recommend anything for replacement VC's - always use stock. you could always refinish your originals.
Thanks everyone. I did use cork on my c3, and was going to go that route, but I read Joe C's posts, and found everyone chiming in on it.
I'll go with:
Fel-Pro PermaDry Valve Cover Gaskets VS50088R
These are pics of the valve covers I purchased, minus the breather.
Is the torque spec 16 inch\lbs? Or about a quarter turn past snug?
according to my 90 FSM, the torque spec for the VC bolts is 90 INCH lbs. I would think your 89 is the same. gasket installation tip - while the gaskets do not need any type of sealant, to aid in installation, use some gasket tack to hold the gasket to the VC for lowering onto the cylinder head. the perimeter bolts are different from the center bolt types in that the perimeter types are held in place by the VC/cylinder head studs. here's the stickem I used during assembly of my 90 -
according to my 90 FSM, the torque spec for the VC bolts is 90 INCH lbs. I would think your 89 is the same. gasket installation tip - while the gaskets do not need any type of sealant, to aid in installation, use some gasket tack to hold the gasket to the VC for lowering onto the cylinder head. the perimeter bolts are different from the center bolt types in that the perimeter types are held in place by the VC/cylinder head studs. here's the stickem I used during assembly of my 90 -
I agree that using a bit of RTV to hold the gasket to the valve cover does work well. My Felpro rubber gaskets have been attached to the valve covers for many years with no issues. And they have been removed and reinstalled quite a few times.
I do like the OEM valve covers, just refinished. Mine are painted yellow to match the color of the car.
I agree that using a bit of RTV to hold the gasket to the valve cover does work well. My Felpro rubber gaskets have been attached to the valve covers for many years with no issues. And they have been removed and reinstalled quite a few times.
I do like the OEM valve covers, just refinished. Mine are painted yellow to match the color of the car.
hi guys, I have a question about this, when you've pulled your valve covers off and reinstalled them, how do you deal with the cured RTV that is left behind on the head and on the gasket? Do you scrape it off and apply new RTV? Or do you just put it back on and sinch it down to the correct torque spec?
One of the reasons why I like to use Hylomar, is because it never truly cures. You can take off the part, hylomar will be sticking to both sides of the mounting surface, and put it back on again and the Hylomar will re-seal itself without having to myck around with scraping it off and applying a fresh coat of RTV.
I found Hilomar during my very first engine rebuild that I did last year. I was scared that I'd be doing things twice give and I was such a Noob, and in fact I did have to pull things off again the valve cover specifically as I did my valve lash adjustment incorrectly the first time. I was impressed because I just pulled off the valve covers carefully and put them back on no problem. No cured RTV bits
to worry about.
just curious about how that works. maybe you do not have any rtv on the head/gasket surface which would make sense and soeak volumes about the gasket material as wel.
hi guys, I have a question about this, when you've pulled your valve covers off and reinstalled them, how do you deal with the cured RTV that is left behind on the head and on the gasket? Do you scrape it off and apply new RTV? Or do you just put it back on and sinch it down to the correct torque spec?
One of the reasons why I like to use Hylomar, is because it never truly cures. You can take off the part, hylomar will be sticking to both sides of the mounting surface, and put it back on again and the Hylomar will re-seal itself without having to myck around with scraping it off and applying a fresh coat of RTV.
I found Hilomar during my very first engine rebuild that I did last year. I was scared that I'd be doing things twice give and I was such a Noob, and in fact I did have to pull things off again the valve cover specifically as I did my valve lash adjustment incorrectly the first time. I was impressed because I just pulled off the valve covers carefully and put them back on no problem. No cured RTV bits
to worry about.
just curious about how that works. maybe you do not have any rtv on the head/gasket surface which would make sense and soeak volumes about the gasket material as wel.
I only glue the gasket to the valve cover, hold it in, and let it cure. Then install.
I have never had to clean anything up. I don't have RTV on the head. If the valve cover gasket would of stayed in place on it own, I would not use RTV at all.
If you work on a modern engine, Along the lines of some thing from the year 2000 You will find most of it is all o-rings or rubber gaskets inside of a lip, or groove, or whatever it needs. I just pulled part an engine with 250K miles and with those gaskets I just reused them and I have no leaks.
with something like a super ram intake, I only glued the gaskets to one surface, and put it together. I have taken it apart and reinstalled this way and did not have any leaks as well.
Last edited by bill mcdonald; Dec 10, 2016 at 12:30 AM.
I only glue the gasket to the valve cover, hold it in, and let it cure. Then install.
I have never had to clean anything up. I don't have RTV on the head. If the valve cover gasket would of stayed in place on it own, I would not use RTV at all.
If you work on a modern engine, Along the lines of some thing from the year 2000 You will find most of it is all o-rings or rubber gaskets inside of a lip, or groove, or whatever it needs. I just pulled part an engine with 250K miles and with those gaskets I just reused them and I have no leaks.
with something like a super ram intake, I only glued the gaskets to one surface, and put it together. I have taken it apart and reinstalled this way and did not have any leaks as well.
Agreed with the above. No RTV between the gaskets and the head sealing surface. Nothing to clean after the fact.
On the SR intake, I used RTV on one side, and vasoline on the other side. I reused the gaskets MANY times with no issue.
I found some nice VCs on ebay from Eckler's that fit perfectly. A reviewer on their website posted pics of them installed, and they fit under the EGR pipe. What I found funny was that Eckler's sells them for about $20 cheaper on ebay, than on their site.
Till you check out for shipping
If you want them email me. I will knock money off and give you free shipping even though I work in tech department
89 Valve Covers and Gaskets?
You will find most of it is all o-rings or rubber gaskets inside of a lip, or groove, or whatever it needs. I just pulled part an engine with 250K miles and with those gaskets I just reused them and I have no leaks.
